This has been recently discussed, but the "plant hardiness zone" really just tells you when things might get killed off in the winter. But it's not very indicative of conditions during the growing season. I've suggested that if people don't want to tell us where they are, then at least include the "heat zone" as well as the "plant hardiness zone". In fact, the plant hardiness zone is really just for perennials, in that you'd like to plant a tree or shrub that ideally will survive a number of winters. Plant hardiness zone 6 includes places like Salt Lake City UT, where temps are getting up near 100F now, and also Grand Rapids MI, where they aren't likely to get much over 80F. So depending somewhat on what one means by "fall" the plant hardiness zone isn't all that informative. But your clues about getting lots of snow in the winter, and long winters and short summers, are probably more relevant than your plant hardiness zone. The right place to look for planting times is from your local ag extension agent or, if that doesn't work, then USDA will make suggestions by state. FWIW, I'm in plant hardiness zone 8b, and in heat zone 10.

Last summer my basjoo got up to about 8' and I thought I'd be able to get a head start this year by heavy mulching - I cut the p-stem down to 3', surrounded it with chicken wire, packed garbage bags around the base to keep it dry, filled the thing with leaves, and covered everything with a tarp. Right before Christmas the temps dropped to -12F, but the rest of the winter was mild. When I uncovered it in April, the p-stem and corm was mush so I rather gave up on it. But at the end of May, 5 pups had sprouted. Now I have a clump of 5 basjoo about 6' and I'm about to start the same thing all over since temps are dropping into the low 40's - 1st frost date here in Columbus is Oct 3. I'll try again, but I think I'll give up on the 'head start' idea - with a 5 month growing season, just making it through to next year is a success in my book! Good Luck! Donn

I couldn't understand why I've had luck with planting onion at the end of May and I didn't think there would be that much difference between our zones, but I found out the reason why. "...the US zones are based entirely on average minimum temperature, and the zones are not subdivided. The Canadian index is far more complicated, and is based on a complicated mathematical formula that takes into account snowfall, wind, rainfall, the warmest month, etc." From a different site "The hardiness zones are informative: the extremes of winter cold are a major determinant of whether a plant species can be cultivated outdoors at a particular location; however, the USDA hardiness zones have a number of drawbacks if used without supplementary information. The zones do not incorporate summer heat levels into the zone determination; thus sites which may have the same mean winter minima, but markedly different summer temperatures, will be accorded the same hardiness zone." Of course I am also in a slightly cooler zone so I am sure that is the biggest factor now after hearing you say it's way to late. The ground is still frozen in April here half the time. We just had 0c temps on Friday, last year had snow on Mother's day and killing frost on Sept 1st, year before frost at the beginning of June. The old couple I buy my hay from said they never do seeds and almost plant in June because they've had frost in middle of June here. Luckily I haven't seen that yet, and hope I never do. I was devastated enough to go from middle of October frost dates for a 5b zone to early September for 5a. It was a shocker that first gardening season for sure. We do also have a bit of a micro climate here with a almost 50 foot elevation level between the upper and lower garden so that could be part of the reason since this is the first year I've had onions in the upper garden we'll see how they'll do. So far the sets have grown 8 inches in about 2 weeks with three frosts in that time. With all that jibber jabber said, I'd still much rather prefer a pearl onion to bitter carrots. Only reason I put some seeds in now was for the livestock. I guess it's a preference thing though.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I should have included a bit of back information that would better give orientation about my overall objectives. This first year or two, my main objective is to define the borders of the porch for my two large dogs. Until now, we had a pad and grass up to the pad (pad is the same pre- and post- porch construction) and they could exit the pad anywhere. Now, I want them to get used to exiting the pad onto the sidewalk in the center, because elsewhere will now be beds (and mud and mess and plants to be stomped). That's why I've bombed the front with the cinnamon ferns, to make a sort of visual railing while the dogs re-learn their exit, and while the beds age in with better soil and I get some other plants going (hostas, etc.). For the first year or two. It will be no problem to move the ferns around the corner when that time comes. I've always wanted a mass of ferns on this eastern facing side: My second objective is to create a streamlined mow line. The grass is maintained with a 60 inch deck mower so whatever bed edge I develop needs to allow the mower to move along it easily (I guess rather than undulating what I was trying to get to was smooth curves rather than corners, for mowing purposes). Third objective is LEAST maintenance from a hand weeding perspective. I know it won't be zero, but I'd like to have it controllable without being consuming. Fourth objective is "pretty." I'm not bothered with "curb appeal" in general as the only viewers are anyone coming up the driveway; this is not seen from the street. Eventually, I would like to grow and develop in a pretty foundation border. I got the ferns cheap and they will help my first objective. As I can, I will add more plants and soil amendments, so that is what I'm asking for - where do I EVENTUALLY want to go with this, etc. I appreciate all your inputs! Please add as you have thoughts!