Thanks, it sounds like I need "real" grout lines. Still, the 4"x4" (I've used in a bathroom, including stand alone shower and a tub) have built in spacers that provide, I estimate, no more than 1/16" space between tiles. The work I've done with these is now about 20 years old and holding up well. The subject brick shape however doesn't seem to have any space other than the bevel, which does go down to the unglazed edge of the tile. I would in any case plan on a 1/8" gap at the counter-top which is filled with caulk. I notice there is a Jacks (not sure it isn't Jax) type spacer that looks to my mind's eye to be better than the older flat cross spacer. Any advice on the type of spacer? On a related item, if I cut (wet saw) or break, ceramic scribe and brake, a tile and the edge will be exposed, is it possible to use a polishing stone or other tile cutting tool to smooth that edge, round it off a bit? I know when I hit an interface, including a corner I will use a caulk to close the run...that has worked well in corners where I have the cut edge of the "top" tile facing away from the line-of-sight, making the cut edge almost impossible to see. I'll have to check to see what I did in the bathroom job many years ago when I came to a bull-nose finished edge. I'll guess there must be some cut/broken edges there, I didn't have a wet saw when I did that job. Just in case one cares to advise, my new counter top is a solid man-made material. Do I have to carefully protect it from any drips of a mounting mastic? Would it be safer to use a thin-set as regards any "splats" hitting the new counter-top? I believe most mastic material is petroleum based, I will guess if there is a latex mastic it may be safer to use over the new counter top. The old bathroom tile job I referred to I think I used a combination premixed mastic/grout...hey, it is still holding both the grout and tiles. That job was above fiberglass tub and shower pan, I didn't see any damage from drips on that job.

If you are selling I think a border has a lot more chance of feedback than no border. Meaning, if the bs was just subway, then there probably won't be comments like "I wish there was a border" because they don't know what they are missing, but if there is a border and potential buyers might say " I don't like the border". Buyers are quite picky and insane these days. Been there, done that. If you think you aren't selling, then by all means do what you like. Life is too short to just be designing your home for a potential possibility you might sell it. No matter what, it will look clean, current, and fresh. And those are always good.

didn't have time to read all the answers. I have no backsplash and have never regretted it...been over 6 yrs. It is painted with BM matte...which has ceramic in it. It is as beautiful now as it was when first painted. I love the fact that I can showcase other things ...art etc in my kitchen and no competition. Also if I ever want to change it is as quick as a paint brush...expense is minimal..paint only ! All in all I think it is serene as you point out . Here is one pick. Since I have a lot of high heat cooking in my kitchen..built in deep fat fryer as well as gas cook top I can definitely speak to the longevity of paint only. c ( more at this album )

Quick update for anyone who might care or finds themselves in a similar situation... I ordered some more matte finish tiles to play with and while playing I thought I would grab some of the leftover tiles I already have and try it with the grout I had bought at Lowe’s which was Mapei Flexcolor CQ in pearl gray. Well needless to say the crackle issue did not appear at all. So I’m assuming it was the unsanded grout that was recommended to me when I ordered the tile that was the problem? The Mapei grout that I used does not specify sanded or unsanded but there are no visible lines after grouting with it.