What's wrong with this little shindesojo japanese maple?
Leslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years ago
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tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
7 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
What's Wrong, Japanese Maple (pix)
Comments (2)looks like leaf scorch. How much sun do you have it in, also how often do you water it? This also can be from to much water. Japanese Maples like afternoon shade....See MoreSomething is wrong with my Japanese Maple!
Comments (1)You can't kill a JM just by using Spinosad - or any insecticide, for that matter. Japanese maples do have rather sensitive foliage and that can be damaged by many topical insecticides - it's called phytotoxicity and while it can burn foliage or cause leaf drop, it's not gonna kill the tree. Drooping, limp branches are not symptomatic of phytotoxicity. Something else is going on. Not sure what but posting photos of the problem could help....See MoreJapanese maple was fine last week -- now what the heck is wrong?
Comments (2)Thank you -- I got the same response in the Trees Forum and I am reassured. We certainly have had some weird weather this spring. Now that I know it's not diseased, I can rest easy!...See MoreI'm almost scared to ask, but what's wrong with my maple? Help please
Comments (9)It appears to be some delayed transplant shock - not fatal but not necessarily a good thing, either. First, you already know this but I'm going to repeat........planting a JM in June in a hot summer climate that is undergoing an extended drought is just not a great idea. Period. The tree is put at an immediate disadvantage by doing so. A reaction by the tree to this stressful situation should not be unexpected. Second, I know it seems counterintuitive, but pruning off the roots is exactly what you should NOT have done. Those fine feeder roots are how the tree accesses soil moisture and nutrients - the larger roots are only for anchorage. So the tree is now working on a second disadvantage - trauma to the rootball (JM roots are very sensitive to disturbance) and a lack of feeder roots. What I'd suggest you should have done is remove as much of the soil on the top of the rootball as possible to expose the burlap, cut any ties (and gently remove) and then unwrap the burlap surrounding the trunk and remove as much from the top of the rootball as possible, leaving the sides - with fine roots growing through - intact. Cutting off these roots has given the tree a major setback. In fact, the nursery I am associated with now nullifies their guarantee policy if removal of the burlap disturbs the rootball excessively......it is that much of a disruption to the plant, especially during the middle of the growing season. Finally, I'd want to know about your watering routine. Using an automated sprinkler system to water a newly planted tree is usually not a great idea. In fact, I discourage it. Most systems come on for a few minutes once or twice a day - this is not enough water for a new tree, particularly one of that size. And you can't tell just by looking at the surface of the soil or even down a couple inches if the soil is adequately moist down to a sufficient depth - it may appear adequately moist on the surface but be dry as a bone further down. Watering by hand, with the hose on a low trickle, for an extended period of time as often as necessary is a much better approach. The water needs to penetrate down into the soil profile at least to the depth of the bottom of the rootball and only low and slow will accomplish this sort of irrigation. A drip system or soaker could accomplish the same thing, but not a sprinkler system. So you've planted at possibly the worst time of year, you've cut off a major portion of the tree's feeder roots that supply its moisture needs and your watering program is not very suitable. Not a huge surprise the tree is reacting poorly :-) All you can do at this point in time is correct your watering practices and hopefully adequate water and cooler fall temperatures will encourage some new root development. I believe this to be recoverable but it may not be obvious until next spring and how well the tree leafs out at that time. Did it come with a warranty?...See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
7 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agostuartlawrence (7b L.I. NY)
7 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agostuartlawrence (7b L.I. NY)
6 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agoMens Tortuosa(5b Omaha, NE)
6 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agoMens Tortuosa(5b Omaha, NE)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agoVivian_2010 IL 5a/b
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMens Tortuosa(5b Omaha, NE)
6 years agoK G (Zone 5, central IA USA)
6 years agoLeslie Tarly Z 5a
6 years agoK G (Zone 5, central IA USA)
6 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoK G (Zone 5, central IA USA)
6 years agomagpiepix 5b/6a
6 years agomagpiepix 5b/6a
6 years agoVivian_2010 IL 5a/b
6 years agomagpiepix 5b/6a
6 years ago
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