Mark, the modified mix Al recommends is a good place to start, but are you planning on covering the container and relying upon a strip of fertilizer on the surface to feed the plants? This is critical because if you will use the cover/fert strip you really need a fast wicking potting mix and this means peat and vermiculite. What I often tell people getting started with Earthboxes where a cover and fertilizer strip will be used is that the system was designed with peat based mixes and it works very well with them so give that a try for a year. It will give you a good frame of reference for tinkering in subsequent years. Assuming you do not wish to do this then: I would encourage you to make a mix and set it outside to see if it will keep the surface moist for a couple days before committing. This is if you will use the cover and fertilizer strip. If you won't use either then Al's mix (original or modified) will work fine. Keep in mind my experience is in Wisconsin, somebody in a hotter/drier/windier climate might need to modify a bit. Even with the cover on, the wind gets under it from the holes we must cut for the plants. This wind may not seem like much, but it can quickly dry the surface. You really do need to test though, that's the best approach. Just do it outside. I say this because I made the mistake of evaluating how well various materials wicked *inside* (I was going through an endless winter and wanted a gardening 'project'). How something wicks indoors is waaaay different than how it wicks outside due to temp, wind, humidity etc. Again though, you really only need to modify Al's mix with fast wickers like vermiculite or peat if you want to use the cover and fert strip. One last tip, if you find that the very surface goes and stays dry, but an inch down it's moist you can simply bury the fertilizer strip an inch under the surface. This gives more latitude in compromising between a coarse mix that drains well and one that can wick fast enough to keep that fert strip working. Happy growing.

Before answering your question about fertilizing, let's address the limp leaves issue. Either too much water, resulting in root rot, or too little water, resulting in limp leaves. A third possibility is soil mealybugs. Since you are going to repot, which is the right thing to do, I would recommend that you re-think the self-watering pot. They are really tricky to get the right absorption of liquid to keep the soil damp but not soaking. Adding perlite will help, but absorption rates will vary from pot to pot, based upon the clay used. If you are open to the idea, I would use a simple plastic pot that is 1/3 the diameter of the plant. If your heart is set on using the self-watering pot, try this mix: 1/2 of the potting mix you have, and 1/2 perlite. The perlite will keep air spaces so the roots hopefully don't stay waterlogged. It's possible that you have root rot already since the plant is limp, or that there wasn't enough water absorbed and it has been too dry. In either case, knock the plant out of the pot and take a good look at the root ball. If it is really dry, gradually moisten the root ball with your bottled water, a little at a time. If the roots are whitish, that is good. The leaves should perk up after a day. While doing this re-moistening, you can keep the plant in the insert part, but dump the water out of the outer pot. At this point it would seem clear that the clay used in this pot isn't going to allow the correct absorption rate and can't be re-used as intended. If the soil is very moist when it comes out of the pot, closely examine the root ball. If the roots are brown, the plant probably has root rot, which doesn't allow water to get up the stem to the plant. You will need to cut off the root ball, starting at the bottom, and work your way up until all the brown mushy stuff is gone. If you can get to good stem, you can re-root this part. Remove all the limp leaves and all but about the first 2-3 rows of leaves, scrape the stem of any stubs, and place into your soil mix, place in a baggie, and put in a bright (not sun) spot. The crown should grow new roots in a couple of weeks. It is not necessary to feed the plant at this time, but after it has re-rooted, simply mix up a jug at 1/2 the 'dosage' recommended, and use it every time you water. And please look at the analysis of the ingredients. Nitrogen will be the first shown, listing the sources of nitrogen. If it shows urea, and it probably will, do not use it if it is over 7-8%. You can find AV fertilizer online, or email John Cook at Cape Cod Violetry for non-urea fertilizer. Let us know how it turns out. Barbara

Bowiea tends to pup Easy to see when they develop

Hi Ben, A lady on epiforums that grows them from seed always cross pollinates with another plant. I don't know if its necessary to get viable seed or if she does it just to get interesting crosses. I believe she did say her Rhipsalidopsis is self fertile. She says the seed take a LONG time to ripen. When the seed feel dry and hard in the husk she picks it and plants the seed about 1/2" deep in moist potting soil.