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mtnrdredux

Travel Insights for Normandy/Paris/Andalucia/Tangiers?

MtnRdRedux
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago

We are going to meet up with one of our kids after their French immersion homestay this summer. We always have very ambitious itineraries and I find we all like that best.

A few questions for those who have been:

1. Normandy. A must-do for the boys. Staying in Bayeux. Apart from D-day stuff, if you were to do an excursion from Bayeux, would you do Mt St Michel or Honfleur?

2. Paris. The first time I went was with a BF years ago and we did all the must-sees. Then I took my BFF to Paris and did it all again. Then I took my Mom, and then I took DH. So I have been to all the usual suspects four times. On top of that I have been many times on business. Some things the kids will do solo, some DH will take them to, and some I will do drive by versions of (like Louvre or D'orsay highlights). But what about moi? What would you do if you just wanted to enjoy Paris? We will rent a large loft for 5 days and have a kitchen, etc.

3. Andalucia. We fly out of Madrid (a place I've been to and nice enough but not a place we need to spend more than 2 days). I have decided that Seville and Granada (esp to see Alhambra) are the most important places to see and that adding in Cordoba or Toledo is just a lot of overlap? Is Ronda worth a detour?

4. Morocco. I can't help it, being so close ... 7,5 miles of strait from the tip of Spain ...and not going. Yet I hear very mixed things about Tangiers which apparently is being spruced up big time by the "new" king of Morocco. It seems people who went 10 yrs ago were aghast, but people who went last year love it. We are used to gritty and not shrinking violets. Some recommend Asilah instead, but it sounds sleepy. Logistically it is only between those two ... we don't have time to do Marrakesh or Fez or Chefchaouen etc.

This will all be late July, so pretty much a zoo and hot as blazes. TIA

Comments (40)

  • bpath
    7 years ago

    Honfleur is charming, but the boys will find Mont S Michel intriguing and fun to explore! Where is your daighter's homestay? Mine was centered in Caen, my family lived in Blainville-sur-Orne, half a block from the canal. And my DFIL landed at Normandy in early August, so not on the beaches but on the articifial docks.

  • robo (z6a)
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Paris only:

    Marche aux puces?
    Deyrolle (gardening + taxidermy store)?
    Cooking class?
    Jardin des plantes?
    Canal St. Martin stroll?
    You could channel David Sedaris and go to the Musée d’Histoire de la Médecine

  • Gooster
    7 years ago

    Despite the massive crowds, definitely Mont St. Michel versus Honfleur. Honfleur is a beautiful coastal city, but MSM is spectacular. The views from the monastery are terrific and the building and passageways will be great for your family. (Our friends have a farmhouse near Deauville). As a somewhat odd side note, we stopped by Villedieu-les-Poeles on the way down from the D-Day beaches. It's literally "god city of frying pans" -- a small town dedicated to copper cookware production (home of the Mauviel factory and an artisan workshop -- only worth it if you are fan like me).

    For Paris, I tend to enjoy the marches aux puce, like Clignancourt's furniture/decor section and hanging out (dining, drinking, shopping) in the slightly less touristy neighborhoods while exploring the 2nd and 3rd tier of sights and activities. Anything specific of interest?

    Regarding Ronda, it is a lovely hill top small city with a good coliseum. It's a nice stop and photo opportuny Being perched on a hill gives a spectacular view. If you have not considered it (or done it) already, a stop in Gibraltar and heading to "monkey" hill is a nice stop before taking the ferry to Tangiers (primarily for the view). It's been like 8 years since I have been there -- but we were not "aghast" and neither charmed (esp relative to Marrakesh). The Medina is chaotic and you do have to keep your wits about you (or hire a guide).

  • Oaktown
    7 years ago

    Sounds like a fantastic trip.

    3. Are you planning on traveling by car or by train? I liked Toledo (actually better than Madrid). Love Seville. If you have not been I think it is worth it to stay at the Alhambra parador in Granada at least one night, even though the hotel itself is not fantastic. To me it seemed a very different (and much more enjoyable) experience to be there when there are not so many tourists. Thought Ronda was nice. Cordoba is nice but I probably would not make a special trip.

  • nancy_in_venice_ca Sunset 24 z10
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Besides being fascinating on its own--Alcazar, Cathedral, Barrio Santa Cruz/Jewish Quarter, Plaza de Espana-- there are a number of interesting day trips from Sevilla. The extensive Roman ruins at Italica, the hill town Carmona (with a well-known parador) and its Roman necropolis.

    Cordoba has the fabulous Mesquita, another UNESCO site iirc, the Juderia with its synagogue, the Alcazar de Los Reyes Cristianos. Nearby is Medina Azahara, the ruins of a medieval palace and settlement. Day trips from Córdoba are Arcos de la Frontera, Cadiz, Malaga with a wonderful Alcazaba terraced into hill overlooking the sea.

    When in Granada, please spend some time wandering in the medieval Moorish quarter, Albayzin -- the hill directly across from the Alhambra. There's also the magnificent cathedral, final resting place of Isabella and Ferdinand.

    I'm a big fan of Andalusia. Being from Southern California I recognize the Andalusian heritage left by colonizers here and in Mexico. In some of the smaller towns in western Andalusia I felt as if I were in Baja California. In Cordoba, the street names could have been in Los Angeles.

    Edited to add: The high-speed trains, AVE and one whose name I've forgotten but has a travel time often only 15-20 minutes longer than AVE, makes longer-distance travel easy. Train schedules are available on-line.

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    We're heading to Southern Spain this year too, so I'll be watching. We have some odds and ends we live in Oaris that I'll share at a later time. Heading back east tomorrow so I have to go to bed on eastern time!

  • Sochi
    7 years ago

    Agreed with previous comments, definitely Mont St. Michel over Honfleur.


    For Paris, I'm in a similar position to you, I've been many times so when I go now I'm looking for something different. I bought a book called Paris Walks a few years ago and I love it - it takes you through different neighbourhoods explaining the architecture and history of the various buildings and parks. I find it fascinating and rewarding, a (lightly) guided way to explore new fascinating neighbourhoods and find new shops, markets and cafes. Pick up what you want to cook for dinner along your walk. Also - if you haven't visited Pere Lachaise cemetery yet it is worth it.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Hi Sochi, Thanks, too bad MSM is twice as far. Oh well! I actually found a number of good threads about less common Paris sites/activities. I like the idea of finding some really good walks though, since I am there to see/do what I can only see/do in Paris. Thanks for that suggestion. Of course there are some ultra-touristy things I will do again. I never get tired of the Grand Odalisque and Winged Victory, and I am a sucker for Bateaux Mouche at night!

    1929, Oooh, how exciting. I had to narrow it down to only a few cities, and since we fly out of Madrid, I thought I could only fit in Seville and Granada. They both look fabulous. I'm very excited about that. The tail is starting to wag the dog with my realization that it is so easy to get to Morocco. I think I will add Fez into our itinerary in lieu of something else. My trips are always overly ambitious, there is so much world to see!

    Nancy, none of the trains worked for us, because there are no direct trains between Seville and Granada or Granada to Madrid. In both cases a car makes sense. We begin in Paris and when we leave Paris, we will fly, and right now it makes the most sense to sort of "overshoot" by flying to Morocco and then heading back North to Seville via Tangiers. If you could pick two cites in Andalusia, what would they be? BTW, our hotel is in the Albayzin (fun except for getting the luggage there!)

    Oak, We will have a driver take us from the Tangier ferry to Seville, then a few days later rent a car to drive to Granada (with lunch in Ronda I hope) and then after 2 days in Granada we will drive to Madrid. I think we want to end with a big city and big city comforts, plus we fly home from there. I heartily agree July is a sucky time to go but its not really a choice.

    Gooster, I know , the copper pots are a big "thing" LOL. Another MSM vote. Wasn't sure it if was kitschy or not! As for the Paris flea markets, I have been so disappointed in them! I have been into shelter mags since I was a preteen, and I think you could do a drinking game with the amount of times someone in the captions claims to have picked something up at a "Paris flea market". I have been to Clignancourt but not Vanves. I went with large fistfuls of cash excited to buy. It seemed I could only find piles of junk (some of it US 70s memorabilia, ugh) or rare Sevres (like a $10,000 vase). I have had much better luck at flea markets in other parts of Europe. Maybe I needed a guide? (rant over). I am going to try to do lunch in Ronda. In re Morocco, I may add a city .... thinking Fez. I don't need the flashiness of Marrakesh (though I have always wanted to go to La Mamounia!) and the logistics are far easier to do Fez.

    Robo... Deyrolle sounds cool. And Canal St Martin has come up a few times. One of the places I am looking at staying is there... right now it is between the Latin Quarter (def a good choice for the first timers in my family) and the area near the Canal. I think I might prefer the latter as a place where I can stroll with less tourists; it is still near the metro to get to everything.

    Bp , Thanks, MSM wins hands down! How fun, did you like your homestay? I work with someone who is sending his daughter to the family where he did a homestay as a kid, LOL! DD is looking at more than one, both are in smaller regional French cities.

  • Kitchenwitch111
    7 years ago

    I was in the South of Spain in 2005, and we took a day trip to Tangiers. We were with a business group that arranged the trip, so we had a guide, which I would recommend. I've heard Tangiers referred to as the "Tijuana of Morocco" in that it's like a border town for tourists. We were driven around the countryside, which was quite lovely, but the Casba and the Medina were pretty intense with crowds and locals trying to sell trinkets. Haggling is expected if you are shopping. Rug merchants will offer you tea and make it difficult to leave without buying. This was my experience, and maybe it was just because we were with a group. I enjoyed the trip but I'm glad we had a guide, even though I usually travel in a more freewheeling manner.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Yes, Kitchen, exactly the way I have heard it, but I have also heard that they are really trying to make over Tangiers and it is much better now .. in any event I am now trying to squeeze in Fez. I would def use a guide, if only because we have a small window of time and want to maximize it. Thanks

    PS I have dutifully done the tea and rug bit in Turkey more than once, and last year in India. I am fully rugged now! : )

  • cyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
    7 years ago

    Mont St Michel is a must-see, IMHO.

    I also recommend Paris Walks.

  • nancy_in_venice_ca Sunset 24 z10
    7 years ago

    I can't pick between three cities in Andalusia: Sevilla, Cordoba, and Granada. Each has so many historic and architectural wonders. Whichever two you choose will be wonderful.

    Now that you mention it, we had to pass on some of the towns in eastern Andalusia due to complicated train connections (we travel by train and public transportation).

  • Oaktown
    7 years ago

    I can! Seville and Granada. I admit my bias in part is due to weather it was SO HOT when were in Cordoba I spent a good bit of time worrying about how my MIL was handling it. This was around Easter so not even summer.

  • nancy_in_venice_ca Sunset 24 z10
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I've been in Sevilla when I would not walk over the bridge to Triana because there was no shade at all along the route.

    Both Sevilla and Córdoba can be hot, depending on the general weather.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Thank so, Cyn, Nancy and Oak. I've already started warning my kids… It's going to be hot, very very hot.

  • blfenton
    7 years ago

    Paris - I've done all the tourist things several times as well and so I second doing the walks.

    My dream is to spend a month in Paris and doing nothing but walking starting with walking down the streets off the Seine.


  • robo (z6a)
    7 years ago

    Mtn we stayed up in Montmartre and I really loved the neighbourhood but of course, more walking required. Beautiful area though.

  • Gooster
    7 years ago

    @Mtn - MSM is a bit kitschy but the beauty of the locale transcends it all. I think the puces can be hit and miss -- you really have to push past the terrible crap to get to the nicer stuff.

    @kitchenwitch's description of tangiers is pretty accurate. But all of these Medinas in the more moderate Muslim countries seem to have a strong tourist bent. The rgs, the perfume, etc are all there -- you just need to avoid it all. I still recall going to Egypt and being taken to a "rug factory" where the owners proudly showed off the 10 years old girls tying rugs, and how their tiny hands could make the smallest knots.

  • robo (z6a)
    7 years ago

    I've been trying to convince my husband that accommodations are half the fun of vacationing!

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Robo,

    TBH, i used to think I was shallow focusing so much on our accommodations (in some case planning an itinerary just so we could visit a certain hotel). Now I embrace it, esp since it used to be primarily a search for the most luxurious/famed spots, and now I am doing a lot more boutique hotels and air bnb (thanks to you Robo, who first turned me on to it 2 yrs ago). Often for far less than I am used to spending but for much more character. Some brands have always been very good about making their hotels feel local but often even the best have a corporate feel to them.


  • Funkyart
    7 years ago

    Oh what truly fun places to stay! And a great itinerary-- you'll have a wonderful trip!

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago

    That Paris house looks fantastic. Here's a short list for me:

    1. Paris by Mouth Food tour. We did the wine and cheese seminar last time and it was great

    2. The first floor of BHV in the Maris, all the shoe repair materials and hardware you can think of

    3. The tasting menu at Verjus

    4. Parc Monceau

    5. Wandering the fabric district below Montmartre. But I sew....

    6. Marmottan. L'Orangerie, Picasso Museums

    7. City Pharma for tons of skin care

    8. Get lost and stop for a wine - anywhere

    9. The rooftop cafe at Printemps

    10. Having the time to notice odd things like these...

    11. And to stop in front of the store window and look at this dress every day!

  • diane_nj 6b/7a
    7 years ago

    I agree with Mont St. Michel (I went last year) and Paris by Mouth food tours (I've taken three) and their web site for restaurant info.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Diane,

    Thanks, MSM looks so touristy it is good to know so many people think it is worthwhile. As for Paris by Mouth, I think I have put on five pounds just reading their site. O.M.G. One of the best bakeries in the city will be very close to the house we are renting. I also love the "Not Terrible Near the Louvre" etc series. Among the tours, did you have a fave? They seem similar. I'd like the least wine-centric one; I have tried but never really learned to appreciate wine, and now that I am over the snob appeal aspect I don't want to develop any habit that costs money and calories anyway (I'm a big water drinker). Is a dry Parisian food tour heresy? DH only drinks Scotch.

    1929,

    Thank you for your list. With 5 nights and 6 days, and nothing I "have" to see, I am really looking forward to "sights" like you shared!

    Thanks, Funky, I am totally psyched!

    ETA : Amex says I cannot get GPS for the rental car in France. Huh? Really? ANyone have that experience?

  • Gooster
    7 years ago

    It looks like you've selected some great places to stay!

    I've had GPS in rental cars in France, but we usually bring our TomTom loaded with the French map in advance. Some of the built-in GPS can be quite bad. Also, we have a unlocked Smart Phone and have an Orange Holiday SIM. For 20E you get 2GB of data + calls, good for two weeks. Very useful for Google maps even when walking down the maze of streets. We last stayed near Republique and used it to navigate through the upper Marais and locate a bistro.

    If you like kitchen items and haven't been to the shop, try the famous e. Dehillerin near Les Halles.

  • diane_nj 6b/7a
    7 years ago

    The Paris by Mouth tours I have taken all have a similar format, but in different parts of town. I've taken Marais, St. Germain, and Latin Quarter. You visit a boulangerie, fromagerie, charcuterie, wine shop (to eat the bread, cheeses, and charcute, and sample wines; non-wine drinkers get water). Finish up at a chocolatier. Some side stops, the Marais tour stopped at a spice shop and a walk through Marché des Enfants Rouge. Each one has been informative and fun.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Thx, Diane and Gooster.

    Gooster, I always thought that I had discovered Dehillerin! My first time in Paris I was just strolling around and was intrigued by the building. I have made a point to stop by on most every visit since. I have some favorite little ceramics I would like to buy more of. I hope they have them!

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago

    Diane was the one who told me about Paris by Mouth.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Ladies, Do you know specifically which "Paris Walks" you liked? It looks like the most recent edition is 2005? But there are several books with similar names.

    TIA!

  • mtnrdredux_gw
    7 years ago

    Sorry I meant which Paris Walks book did you use?

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago

    Regarding Spain, we booked accommodations a week in Seville and another in Madrid. We prefer day trips and fewer room changes. Plus we stay in hotels for clean towels and maid service!

    Do you have a tour or driver service you recommend out of either city?

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    AirBnbs often can provide daily maid service, fyi.

    We are using a driver from Tarifa (the port for our return from Morocco) to Seville, but I don't know the name (the Air Bnb in Seville is run by Spain Select and they are arranging a car for us). We are renting a car after that, for Seville-Ronda-Granada-Madrid.

    When will you be there?

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago

    Thanks. We're going in October. We always wait until your kids are all back in school! ;)

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago

    Oh and we're on sky miles and Marriott points in Madrid.

  • MtnRdRedux
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Darn, we could have met for tapas, LOL. I can't wait till i can travel off season again; October will be soooo much nicer. Nothing like points and miles!

  • 1929Spanish-GW
    7 years ago

    Rats. I just remembered you were recently in SF. There's a great place in Nob Hill - Zarzuela. I drool whenever I think of it.

  • uberbeachy
    7 years ago

    Don't know if you're familiar with David Lebovitz, but his blog can provide enough ideas for a lifetime of things to do in Paris and other parts of France. Recent posts about the Mauviel copper cookware factory and Mont St.-Michel are outstanding - painful for those of us who don't have a trip to Normandy planned!


    davidlebovitz.com


  • texanjana
    7 years ago

    Mtn, Once again, I will live vicariously through your travels. It sounds like a fantastic trip!

  • patty_cakes42
    7 years ago

    Texasjana, thank you for saying what I was going to say! I'll be with ya mtn, if only in spirit. Sounds like an absolutely awesome trip! Lucjy kids too.

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