I don't know what size tires you have, but you'd better be aware how much it costs to replace them before you start customizing them, just in case. I was quite surprised to see how much a replacement 23" turf tire set me back a few years ago after some rebar went through the sidewall: about $80. My main concern with trimming turf tires into ag tires is that the valleys between the lugs will be very thin and susceptible to puncture. I'm not sure of the exact thickness, but I'm pretty sure the thinnest part of the tread on my Carlisle Tru-Power tires is much thicker than the portion of the tread between the blocks on my Turf Masters. You can buy new ag tires pretty cheap on eBay ($90 for a 23"), and the Asian import tires are dirt cheap. Interesting note on siping (not sniping, which is done with a rifle): Michelin is the only manufacturer I know of that features full-depth sipes. Stability is a big challenge with all season tires, and most major manufacturers only run the sipes a third of the way down into the tread blocks, with full-depth sipes and weak rubber compounds, you'd lose cornering ability as the blocks walked under lateral G-loads. So they compensate for their cheap rubber by only cutting the sipes halfway. The disadvantage is when you're half-depth siped tires are halfway through their life, they've essentially shed their all-season capability. Michelin uses such high quality materials they've figured out how to have your cake and eat it too, and your tires will have decent ice traction down to the last 2/32. One last plug (no pun): I worked my way through college in a tire shop, selling and installing, and Michelin has always been in a league of their own. They are the most expensive, and they are absolutely the best. I actually just bought an Ideal brand 120v tire regroover on eBay for something like $40. I'm going to use it to get through the rest of the winter on the cheap tires that came on my truck. I prefer to buy tires in the fall, not the spring (and they will be Michelin LTX M/S). The cheap (but not inexpensive) Kuhmo tires it came with not only didn't have full depth sipes, but the shoulder blocks only went halfway down, so now with probably 20k mi left in the tires, they have a solid shoulder which means no snow traction and poor water evacuation. So I'm planning to open up the shoulders a bit this weekend. If it works as planned, I won't hydroplane for a few more months. If it doesn't, I'll be buying tires a little sooner! Here is a link that might be useful: regroovers

While it will not happen on a tractor, I learned my lesson on my boat trailer. We had camped on the boat overnight. The next day while driving home at about 55mph, I felt the trailer do something strange. I looked in the mirror and saw the trailer come up and the wheel come out of the fender. I immediately started to stop and watched the wheel go rolling down the road. Fortunately I was able to keep everything properly oriented and got the car and trailer off to the side of the road. My wife was a sleep and I woke her, telling her to get the water from the boat to put out the fire. On one side of the trailer one of the axle U bolts was gone and one about 30% remaining, the rest of the two bolts had started the grass fire.. After retrieving the wheel the adrenalin left me, and I was so weak I could not get a couple of nuts from the right wheel to attach the left wheel. (I had an extra in my tool box.) I drove the remaining 30 miles dead slow with three bolts on each wheel. and what was left of the one U bolt

Make sure that the wheels you get are for disc brakes (if you have disc brakes). Although you may find that the bolt pattern of wheels for shoe brakes will fit a disc brake equipped wheel, the wheel may interfere with the caliper assemby and that won't be discovered until the final tightening of the lug nuts. Damage may result since great force can be developed by the lug nuts. The dished shape of wheels for disc brakes are different to older wheels for shoe brake autos. Beware of this when getting wheels from a slavage yard. Also, when buying used wheels, make sure that the beveled holes for the lugs are not worn out. The lug nut should contact the wheel face and become snug before the backside of the material around the hole touches its clamping surface. The wheel acts as a very stiff spring lock washer to keep the lug nut in place. If the backside of the wheel bottoms, or the lug nut bottoms, before the lug nut begins to tighten on the wheel face, the lug may loosen, or the wheel will not be tight. This happens when the beveled hole is too large.

I have antique ironstone, antique hutches and English/Irish pine tables found at fleamarkets and antique stores, as well as many CL finds that I've refinished/reupholstered. They're all mixed in with newer PB and RH pieces and Hubbardton Forge lighting that may be considered trendy but aren't to me because they suit my style. DD's changing table was an early American drysink that I loved but unfortunately no longer have a home for, so it was given to a family member to use in her new baby's nursery. An antique dresser that DH modified with a copper vessel sink is now a vanity in my powder room. My favorite piece of furniture is DD's antique iron bed from the 1800's, which is exactly what I would have loved to have had as a child. My second fav piece is my RH reclaimed pine dining table. I'll probably keep most of the items in my home as long as they last. Not making any effort to be unique - I try to buy only what I love. Rarely does anything leave my house after it comes in! My sister is the opposite - she gets bored with her furniture after a few years so she isn't as inclined to spend the effort refinishing furniture or spending extra on quality hardware. She has a beautiful home!