Thickness of door casing & baseboard
uscpsycho
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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uscpsycho
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
replace door casings along w/ flooring & baseboards? (pics)
Comments (13)millworkman, I still don't know if they're split or not. The test of how easy it is to budge the door stop, I'm not going to do, because I don't want to replace anything else about the doors, or even repaint them. The split-jamb casings are supposedly attached with lots of staples at the factory, and these certainly do have the staples. I did cut through the paint at the casing/sheetrock line, as well as the casing/jamb, but that didn't always help...because when the chisel applied force to pry the pieces apart, it didn't always apply force where I scored the paint. In those cases, the alkyd paint pulled off some of the wall paint in the surrounding area, even though I had scored it where I thought the joint was (under all that paint). I do know that no DIYers or renters were ever here...this workmanship was done by the builder. The builder is long out of business, built a bunch of homes and condos for our community in SoCal. A friend did put a bunch of coats of this alkyd paint on the doors and casings about 10 years later. weedyacres, I did consider cutting out the bottom and putting in a plinth. I also considered building up the width and depth by adding another piece on the outside of all the casing. But, I just think that a larger, flat, plain casing is the look I'm going for. So I'm gonna rip 'em all out, as I redo the flooring in each room. EngineerChic, I have a cheapie Harbor Freight multi-tool I haven't used yet, but I've been watching videos on what the different blades will do, and I think it will come in handy for my remodel. I've never done more than tap in a picture nail before this. That is really thick stock your contractor is suggesting! I was thinking 1/2" or so for base, 5/8" for casing so it's a little deeper than the base. I need some samples to see if this looks good. It seems to be hard to find this plain style of molding around here. I found a 5.5" high base that's only slightly rounded on the edge (do NOT want bullnose), but I haven't found any casing that's about 4" wide and a little more than 1/2" thick......See MoreBaseboard and trim/casing experts - please need advice on thickness?
Comments (1)It's a little easier to have base die into the vertical millwork especially if the vertical millwork has an eased edge that a cut edge of the base would stand proud of. You could use the same thickness if you are careful how they abut. 1/2" may be a bit flexible and look wavy if the wall is not dead flat....See MoreBaseboard and trim/casing experts - please need advice on thickness?
Comments (8)I think 1/2" would look more modern. I have been using 3/4" trim with traditional 1/2" baseboards and it is looking a little clunky. But I'm fine with it - looks more craftsman to me. I also put an extruded edge around the window casing to make it look more finished. So the window frame comes out from the wall about 1-1/8" total. (This actually takes away from the "clunkiness".) Definitely make sure the door casings are flush with or thicker than the baseboards, since the baseboards will butt up against the door casings....See MoreDoors, baseboard and casings!
Comments (4)The outside looks like this. it will have new doors/windows when Reno completed though. The inside is 8’ ceilings, will have light wood-look porcelain floors, new (transitional style) kitchen and baths and a semi-open floor plan. The back has sliding glass doors to a pool/large backyard. It’s in Florida....See Moreuscpsycho
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