Layout Advice - for new kitchen - exciting!
Nic
7 years ago
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Anglophilia
7 years agorantontoo
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
kitchen layout advice for new kitchen
Comments (4)A few questions about architect's drawing, your planned use of the area, and your use of the kitchen. 1. What are the shapes numbered 13? My best guess was skylights. 2. What do the areas bordered with scalloped lines indicate? No guess here. 3. I assume the squares in the breakfast room area indicate a coffered ceiling. Is that correct? 4. In your plan, does the ''desk'' match the kitchen cabinets? 5. Do you cook a lot? Do you prepare large meals? Do you want to? The usable kitchen area if you do not use the bottom wall is only about 12 x 15. That isn't tiny, of course, but neither is it spacious, especially when it is limited to only two usable walls. I hope someone can see a better way to make use of this expansive area. If you answer these questions and Marcolo's, it may help GW's outside-the-box thinkers come up with a great idea....See MoreLayout Advice Needed: New Kitchen in Old House
Comments (6)Just be careful of... Aisle widths...remember that aisles are measured counter edge-to-counter edge or to/from the items that stick out the farthest into the aisle - whether counters, appliance handles, walls, etc. They are not measured base cabinet-to-base cabinet (if you measure this way, then your actual aisles will be at least 3" narrower than you think they are.) [Minimum aisle widths with no seating on the aisle: 42" for one person working in the aisle at the same time; 48" for two or more. If seating on a work aisle, plan for at least 54".] Corner seating...two seats cannot occupy the same leg/knee space under the counter - so be sure you have at least 39" for each seat on the long end (15" overhang for the seats on the short end + 24" linear space for the seat on the long end). Do you really need 4 seats at the island with the table so close? I would reduce it to 2 or 3 - with no seats in front of the refrigerator. Refrigerator...if it's a counter-depth, then check the depth, most are around 30" to 32" deep, including doors & handles. If it's a true built-in, then it's actual depth will be around 26" to 28" (counting handles). Regardless, it won't be exactly the 24" as shown in your layout....See MoreNew build kitchen layout advice needed
Comments (16)Here's an idea: The counters and cabinets along the perimeter are all 3" deeper than standard: 28.5" deep counters 27" deep base cabinets 15" deep upper cabinets The deeper cabinets provide a lot more storage and the deeper counters provide more workspace. If your cabinetmaker does not offer 27" deep base cabinets, then simply pull standard depth base cabinets out 3" from the wall. Most, if not all, cabinetmakers offer 15" deep uppers. The Cleanup Zone and Dish Storage are near the Dining Room for ease of setting the table and cleaning off the table. They're also a direct shot from the Living Room. Dish Storage is in a 30" wide dish hutch. The upper cabinet goes from the counter up to the ceiling (or however high your uppers go). This gives you a lot of storage space for dishes, glasses, etc. With the deeper counters, the upper cabinet of the hutch is 15" deep so you can fit all your plates and platters. The two Prep Zones are separated from the Cleanup Zone, which allows you to have someone cleaning up while others are prepping/cooking. With two "primary" Prep Zones, you can have two people doing major prep work at the same time. It also provides you with a choice of where to prep - on the island or b/w the range and cleanup sink. As your toddler grows up, s/he will be helping in the Kitchen, so you will each have your own space! It also allows guests, etc., to help out during get togethers. With the prep sink offset, you have a wonderful expanse of workspace for large projects such as baking, cookie decorating, crafts, school/science projects, wrapping gifts, staging food during parties, etc. Both the MW drawer & wine cooler are on the sides of the island to keep people out of the main work zones. It really doesn't matter which side of the island they're on - you can switch them. I can argue for/against both arrangements. The refrigerator & freezer are on the periphery of the Kitchen for the same reason. The trash pullout is located so it's easily accessible from both Prep Zones, the Cooking Zone, and the Cleanup Zone as well as on the periphery. Small Appliances...There's a mixer lift for your stand mixer and the other small appliances can be stored in the 27" wide drawer bank across from the mixer lift. No appliance garage, but in all honesty, most people end up taking them out when they remodel b/c they take up too much counterspace and the what counterspace there is in front of the garage is useless b/c you don't want to block access. Better to store them where they can be easily accessed without having to move things around or even to shuffle appliances around in a smaller space inside a garage. With the drawers, they're all accessible without shuffling or taking up valuable counterspace. If there's room, you could also store them in the Pantry - 12" deep shelves hold the vast majority of standard small appliances. Cookbooks could be stored in the shelves of the 24" upper cabinet, if you'd like. I ended up storing mine in an upper cabinet next to my hood b/c I forgot to plan for them and that location is actually working out quite well! They're right were I need them! If you have dozens of cookbooks, they probably won't all fit, but you could at least store your most used cookbooks there on 1 or 2 shelves. I put in the Savigny range. It's still quite large, but at least you gained a few inches of workspace! The pantry is a reach-in, possibly step-in pantry with only 12" deep shelves. Built-in pantries are much more efficient and flexible storage if their shelves are not too deep - and they're less expensive! They provide a full view of what you have so there's no opening/closing drawers or roll out tray shelves looking for something Shelves can be adjustable for not only flexible storage initially, but if your needs change later, you can re-adjust them. If needed, you can store larger items on the floor. You have access to the entire space for storage - floor to ceiling. You can even use the side walls to hang a broom or mop. The "sweet spot" for pantry shelf depth is 12". Just about everything will fit on 12" deep shelves - cereal boxes, rolls of paper towels, cans, boxes, small appliances (food processors, mixers, blenders, breadmakers, standard size toaster ovens, toasters, waffle irons, etc.). The shallow depth doesn't allow you to store things too deep so things do not get lost. If you're concerned about organization, get bins or similar to organize smaller items on the shelves. The problem with 24" deep pantry cabinets is that they are not particularly flexible, things get lost in the back and in the "middle" of the roll out tray shelves (especially those above your chest), and if you're not quite sure where something is, you have to open/close multiple drawers/roll out tray shelves looking for the item. In addition, you only have "access" to the internal height of the pantry cabinet - usually quite a bit less than floor-to-ceiling b/c of toekick and limited cabinet heights available, Oh, and they're expensive. . Layout #1: . Layout #1 Zone Map: ....See MoreYe Wise Kitchen Gurus - New Build Layout Advice Please
Comments (4)First congrats on a nicely laid out house. It's going to be light and bright with windows on two sides in almost every room I think the kitchen layout is fine as it is! You go from getting food out of the fridge, to bringing it to the sink to wash, to prepping between cooktop and sink. It works! In fact my first house had this exact layout and it was absolutely the best setup I ever had for cooking. So much so, that I'm repeating it in my new build. One question to you. You said foundation is set. Are windows set? I ask because if it were me in your master bedroom I'd switch the two sets of windows so you could put the bed on the wall at top. I say that so one person is not walking around the side of the bed in the middle of the night. Also one other suggestion if it's not built on a slab? I'm looking at your laundry room and I think it would be better if you could rearrange the room so the door to the laundry room opened into the hallway and not the foyers. I'm wondering if you moved the washer/dryer under the windows and the dog washing area where the washer is now, if it might be doable? Not sure....See Moremama goose_gw zn6OH
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoNic
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoBuehl
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoNic
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