Calling all haworthians
Pagan
7 years ago
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breton2
7 years agobikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
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Wally World "haul"
Comments (10)The cactus pieces in the last picture are likely Mammillaria gracilis var. fragilis. The little knobblies break off the mother plant very easily, and are extremely easy to root. Just place them broken-side down on some barely moist gritty-type mix and wait. I misted mine about every two weeks, but I live in a very dry climate. They rooted in less than a month....See MoreCalling all haworthians....continued
Comments (307)One thing I can say about akadama: it talks! When it's dry, it screams it. When the top looks visibly dry, wait one day and it will be dry two inches down. This one on the left is another one of those that stays green even two inches from the bulbs (H. turgida var pallidifolia AL). On the right, Haworthia pygmaea var. pygmaea (JDV 8415 AL), turns reddish in about two weeks. Ooh, nice clump there, Miniotoro Ranimal....See MoreCalling all haworthians....P3
Comments (257)Ooof, that looks serious, Doc. I haven't seen that before. This is from indoor light straight into sun? I mean, what conditions can do this to a haworthia? I've scorched some before but never quite that badly. BTW, Conny! I want #9. These wimiis are something else. Someone else will have to chime in for you, Michael. I've never bought haworthia seeds. They take too long to show proof of provenance, I'm not sure I'll want anyone's seeds unless I know them personally, as well as their pollinating practice. But Mesa Garden sells some! And you're one of those people whose haworthias look like dessert! I want that~ It's getting long so let us continue here:...See MoreHaworthians Page 7
Comments (304)In_awe - My 2xT5HO were 4" away from my plants. They did very well with 10000 lumens at that height. I do agree that lumens aren't a very good measure, lux/fc are better, and PAR is the best. One problem I find with a single number for measuring output is that light distribution with T5HO and LED lights is not uniform. Light distribution end to end and from center to sides is quite important to me because I have a limited grow area. My target light level is 24 PAR DLI for my high light succulents and 10 PAR DLI for my Haworthia. Roughly that's 1200-3000 fc, depending on the plant. Some of my Haworthia only need 250-500 fc. Required light levels differs significantly. In general, I've found truncata/emelyae/hard-leaved species to be quite resilient and take a lot of light. Obtusa/retusa are middlish. Picta and springbok don't like it too bright and marxii pretty much stay in the shade. I'm curious to hear other's experience with this! If you're looking to increase your light levels to get more colourful Haworthia, the two easiest ways are decreasing fixture height slightly or increasing the duration the are on. Pagan - Good luck with your experiment! If you don't already have a fc/lux meter, $10 on ebay is well worth it for purely relative light measurements. Nil - I already have a PAR meter and two lux meters (one is owned by my work), but for curiosity's sake I've contacted my local Apogee dealer to see how much they are charging for the SQ-520. Hopefully will hear back from them tomorrow. Think I need to do some more overtime to pay for all these toys!...See Morebreton2
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Nil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)