Eh . . . if the difference was just an inch or two, it might look like an error, but with 8", you don't have to worry about that. Otherwise, assuming you're using that extra glass to take advantage of the sun's position or a great view, people should be too busy admiring that to care about the back door.

Have you considered the structural ramifications in this query?

No. What structural ramifications might there be? (I'm not an architect)

With the provided info, it does not look like there will be structural issues as you still will have room for the header.

Why do you want to do this? will the new dimension match the top of the cabinets? If so, I'll do it.

You can also consider placing the window sill at counter level (no backsplash), this way you will only have a difference of 2" (to the door top) and 2 inches are unnoticeable as they are not too close to each other, otherwise, you will have 6" for the backsplash.

Are the dimensions to the face of openings or to the rough openings?

For a 9-0 ceiling you can use 8-0 RO doors and increase the height of the kitchen windows to match. Small differences in height can be resolved with taller trim on the shorter element.

I would use two awning windows to reduce the posts at the sink from two to one.

The existing casement windows are 1'-8" wide (or a total of 5-'0" wide). Rather than using 2 awning windows, would it make sense to use two (2) wider casement windows (e.g. 2'-6" wide)?

If you go from 3 windows above your sink to 2 windows, will the post will be in the middle obstructing your view?

Yes, if we were to have two casement windows, the mullion would be in the middle. But, that might be better than having 2 mullions (as with the existing solution) and might offer more unobstructed glass...

I assume you are using rough opening or frame dimensions.

A 5-0 wide set of 3 casement windows has about 46" of glass width divided into 3 pieces.

A 4-0 wide awning window would provide about 43 1/2" of glass width in one piece.

These awning windows are 42" wide (RO) and there are 3 on the back wall and 2 on the side wall. I had proposed 2 + 2 and the owner asked for another one on the left.

If you must have casement windows consider a "French Casement" that consists of two operable sash in one frame. When it is cranked both sash open and there is no post. You may need to buy them from Marvin.

Don't place your window sill level with the counter top unless you want continuous water splashes on your window trim, hoping the paint and sealant will protect the trim and framing for as long as you own the house. A splash material is there for a purpose.

@JDS - that's great advice regarding the "French casement window". I know that there wouldn't be a post, per se. But, there would still be an obstruction (i.e. where the two windows come together) directly in front of the person standing at the sink, right? How about using a large picture window with some grilles in order to make it appear more traditional?

Virgil...I seriously considered counter height windows above my sink.

this look is very, very popular among members on the kitchen forum. I haven't seen anyone complain about water or splashing.

I decided against it because I figured I would be the first to have those splashing problems.

The windows in the photo above are awning windows with mullions and are effectively picture windows until you decide to open them. Since interior screens are unattractive most people leave them out and only open the windows in the cooler months to cool the room.

At this point, our main goal is to:

a) maximize the width of unobstructed glass

b) maximize the height of unobstructed glass

With regard to "a" above, we're hesitant to use the triple casement window (that is 3-4" tall and 5'-0" wide) above the sink because the width of the unobstructed glass in each lite is only approximately 14" (and the mullions are prominent).

What are the community's thoughts on solving both "a" and "b" above by using a radius casement window with colonial grilles similar to the photos below?

Radius Casement:

Thanks!

My thought is you don't add an additional element to your exterior design, especially if it hasn't been used anywhere else.

The arch top, casement post and small panes are all inappropriate.

Unless you have a magnificent view, you should be looking for greater height (for light) rather than greater width (for view). Remember that you will often be standing right in front of this window so width will be less important than for a living room window.

Also, there is little reason to center two windows on the sink. Even a double bowl sink is not wider than 36" so it can fit in front of one of a pair of 3-0 windows.

Here is a kitchen with two awning windows each 3-5 wide x 4-0 tall RO.

Please note the "heft" of the windows and trim that JDS is posting and the feeling if quality that it imparts to the viewer. Compare that with the flat / narrow look to the arched casement window you posted. Just guessing this is not an inexpensive house ;-) - please don't use low end windows.

The window in the second picture is merely an example of the shape (not the actual window by any means).

In other words, what was posted was not what was meant? This is why many of these threads wind up going off the rails...

The problem with the arched shape is that there is a finite vertical dimension between the countertop and the second floor framing. A curved window head simply means lower jambs, a smaller window and less natural light and view out than a rectangular window.

i am having 3 casement windows in front of my sink. Originally I had 2 but increased it to three because I didn't want to be looking at a mullion between windows. Do you really want to block your view with 2?

i do not like the arched window.

i do like the window look that JDS posted with the trim between the windows. This requires studs between the windows.

this is my inspiration pic.

Rustic Kitchen · More Info

Actually looking at JDS picture of the two windows with the sink off center...there is more unobstructed glass.. The off center sink threw me off but after looking at it, it kind of grows on me.

What are the community's thoughts on the following window above the kitchen sink?

Completely unrelated to any of the other windows on the façade. Why do you want a single window with a bow head?

Do you not like the options displayed in JDS's and ILoveRed's photos? They are much more consistent with your elevation and other windows.

We would prefer to do something a bit more "dramatic" than the photos posted by @JDS and @ILoveRed (though still classic looking). The architect indicated that "...the exterior elevation doesn't necessarily concern me. What's more important is that the kitchen looks good when you're standing in it."

I agree that the row of 3 narrow matching windows on the right and the row of 3 narrow (and short) matching French doors on the left are in the low to no drama category but rather than trying to add drama between them I suggest you redesign the rear facade so it works as a whole.

To do that it would help to post all of the plans and elevations.

Adding a single window with "drama" actually does the opposite. It screams I don't belong.

Honest question (although I don't hate the window): is the kitchen really where you want a one-off dramatic flourish, anyway? Seems like a den/family room or master bedroom, where most homeowners (and guests) spend more time, would be more usual.

@dauglos - I'm not following. We spend a significant amount of time in the kitchen (as do our guests). We're interested in this window (or one like) to maximize light coming into the rear of the home (which faces South). And, it's clear that "dramatic" was a poor choice of words...

Fair enough. I just duck into my kitchen for the occasional bite or drink, but it sounds like this is a better fit for your "lifestyle" than mine (in quotes because my word choice isn't spot on, either).

You will have more glazing, and it will be higher in the wall (which means more natural light in the interior) with a rectangular window than one with a arced head. With a arced head window only the top of the curved segment will be as high as the entire head of a rectangular window.

I would use a 60" wide x 40" high picture window with a 20" high RO operable transom above it. Then you could use the transom for ventilation and not have screens on the lower window. The wall above the transom would be about 7" tall, enough for trim and a ceiling molding.

A structural header could be substituted for the second floor band joist/rim board. I've done it many times.