Help creating privacy screen; Dallas/Fort Worth Area
Lindsay K
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Help with tree layout for privacy border
Comments (12)If you do not want to install a stucco fence, if city code allows intall a short electric fence along the back property line to discourage wild animals from invading and eating your landscaping. Then Plant two rows of Thuja Plicata Green Giants in a staggered pattern for the entire length of your house. Plant all the trees on 10 foot centers, and be sure to dig the planting holes for the back row of trees at least 6 feet away from the easement. Also, space the center holes for the front row of trees at least 10 feet infront of the back row. X,,,X,,,X,,,X,,,X...X...X...X...X...X...X ...X...X,,,X...X...X...X...X...X...X...X county drainage easment, county drainage easement As you can see from the planting example created by the rows of Xs above, it will take 21 trees planted on 10 feet centers to cover each 100 linear feet of your back boundry that you want to plant with Thuja Plicata Green Giants. If you want to plant them for nearly the length of your home and and if that linear length is more than 200 feet, then you will need to plant more than 42 of these trees. If you wanted to plant the entire 400 yard linear boundry line than you will need to plant 84 of these trees. If you can purchase 84 one gallon sized potted trees, purchasing that many should be much easier on your budget. For each of these one gallon size trees you choose to purchase just predig holes 3 feet wide in diameter by 10 inches to 1 foot deep. Also pre install a drip watering system with outlets, which once the trees are planted, can be positioned to water each tree individually. A high graded quality one gallon Thuja Plicata Green Giant tree should be anywhere from 12 to 18 inches tall and have a well filled in pyramid shape. If the winters are mild in your part of California, then one gallon trees that are watered correctly and given slow release non burning fertilizer at the beginning of each growing season, should be expected to acclimate fairly quickly and grow at least 6 to 12 inches during the first year after you plant them. The next year if you have been good to keep them watered properly, and fertized at the approprate times, they should grow at least an addtional 3 feet. By the end of the 3rd year if you have still kept them watered at the right amounts, and fertilized appropriately, then they should have grown an additional 5 feet. That means your trees by the end of the 3rd year, could at the very least have grown to be about 11 feet tall. By that time, it is possible that they could have spread enough, if you planted two staggered rows to almost be giving you a solid wall affect for at least the 4 feet up the trees' height. Every year there after they should grow at about 5 feet, and as long as you keep them fertilized properly their skinny new top growth should keep filling out at a fairly nice pace. Other wise if the trees are not fertilized at the beginning of their growing season, but if they get the right amount of soil moisture, they will grow taller, but the new growth will look thin and sparce, while taking over six months or more to ever fill out with a well balanced branching pattern. If your trees begin to take on such an appearance, by all means resist the temptation to snip of that thin up shoot of growth. Instead simply begin feeding and watering the tree properlly and it will respond by producing a nice amount of branches on that upshoot of new growth and also, follow that with more new height growth. With these trees, always remember that any branch you cut off at the trunk will not grow back, so if for any reason the lower branches become brown due to the tree not getting enough water, or the tree's roots suffocating from too much water, do not cut those branches off to the trunk. So do not purchase trees which have a lot of lower trunk showing. Also if after plantings the trees encounter too dry of soil and begin to brown. Do not prune away the brown branches. Instead you can remove the dead needles if you would like, and simply begin making certain the tree gets adequate moisture. Then be patient and if you have begun the better care paractices in time, you can be assured the tree will grow new green needles on those bare dead looking branches you left on the tree. If the tree's lower branches begin to die due to soggy soil conditions which suffocate the tree's root system, you should wait to see if these dead looking branches will recover, with proper care of the tree, but in that situation there is not such a high chance these will respond as well as desired. If you plant a wall of these trees, than to prevent them looking boring consider planting a variety of shorter and not to broad of spreading ornamentsl shrubs planted and spaced appropriately infront and lined up with the middle of the front row of tree's spacing. At the feet of the ornamental shrubs you could install a border planting of continuously flowering, or very decorative leafed one to two feet tall potential growing plants or shrubs....See MoreThuja Green Giant Privacy Screening Project Advice
Comments (36)Thanks for all of the advice guys. @ davidrt28 - thanks for the advice and ordering info @ kato_b , tsugajunkie - the larger 5 gallon plants don't look as bad. there is still some green, but they don't look that great. I actually started planting the smaller trees further back from the road because I was worried about the salt spray. I think they're around 28ft from the road and have those hedges in between the road and small trees. I thought that would have been enough protection... also before they even started salting last fall, they were starting to turn orangish. @ davidrt28 - nope.. I didn't fertilize them @ tsugajunkie - thanks for that link, I may have to look into a different species what a discouragement ... it would have been nice to see the majority survive after all the time and money I put into the project I'm thinking the best thing to do is look for several species that's resistant to salt spray and add a mix of trees This post was edited by duke90 on Thu, May 2, 13 at 0:53...See MoreSuggestions? NC Privacy Screen - Year Round
Comments (9)igolfchip, you said originally that you're "not the biggest fan of evergreens." I take it from the context of the rest of your messages that you meant that you don't especially like conifers, i.e. needle- or scale-leaved evergreens. Obviously, if you do want to make sure your plants have leaves year-round, then what you want are evergreens. But it sounds like you prefer broadleaf evergreens, rather than coniferous ones. That's fine. There are lots of great broadleaf evergreen plants that grow well in our area and make terrific privacy screens. Frankly, though, if you have a sunny, dry-ish area and want a plant to grow quickly and densely to 10 to 30 feet but only encroach 3 or 4 feet into the yard, that mostly means conifers. There are a number of species and varieties of cypress, arborvitae, cryptomeria, and others that work really well at doing exactly what you're looking for. If you really insist on using broadleaves, though, realistically you'll probably have to accept a good deal of maintenance in the future in the form of trimming and pruning to keep them within four feet of the fence. bumblebeez suggested the 'Chindo' viburnum, which is definitely a beautiful plant and a tough, hardy, vigorous screening plant, but keeping it as narrow as you need it to may be a considerable challenge. At least, though, Chindos have a generally upright growth habit, so they can be pruned heavily to keep them from getting too wide without disrupting their natural form. That's not as true of some of the other popular broadleaved evergreen screening plants used around here, like ligustrums, waxmyrtles, and various hollies. But, unless you're committed to regular and frequent trimming to control breadth of spread, you maybe should really consider conifers. If your apprehension is based on over-exposure to junipers, leyland cypresses, and the ubiquitous loblolly pines around here, maybe you'd like cryptomerias better. I think they're really pretty, and they definitely have a different "look" than some of the other conifers mentioned above. Two cryotomeria varieties: 'Yoshino' and 'Radicans' are commonly available around here as screening plants, and should fit your site needs quite well. One other thing I'd like to mention: if you're willing to do a little hunting, you might be able to find another excellent broadleaf evergreen screening plant, which is the 'Carolina Sentinel' holly. It's got the typical lush, prickly evergreen holly foliage and bright red berries in the winter, but it naturally grows in a distinctly narrow, vertical, upright form that might work well in your situation. Unfortunately, though, it's not a very common plant yet, and finding some to plant in your yardÂespecially in a size larger than a 3-gallonÂmay be very difficult. Good luck. Anyway, I hope this helps. If you have any further thoughts, please share them. Thanks....See MoreNew Pool Build in Fort Worth - Lagoon Style
Comments (86)Here's a picture of the slide. The colors are just too busy and not what we were looking for. Their is also too big of a drop from the top down into the slide seat. They broke the top and created a step down so the kids can slide. Waiting on good weather to strip the slide where it is yellow and green/grays to change those colors a bit darker. We may end up redoing the whole thing in a solid color. Right now it's just really ugly to me and I've hardly taken any pictures since. Here is our grill they finished. It was a small 8 ft area but worked out perfectly for us :) This is the first half of the arbor. We are building another one right behind it that goes into the ground to support the entire thing. The second arbor will be for a hammock...totally can't wait. Looking from under the arbor back at the house. You can see our iron fence for the dog run is up and hubby got his Longhorn emblem made into the fence. A little path to our pool equipment behind the slide....See MoreLindsay K
6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLindsay K
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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