Well if it's any consolation, I did bust the budget to get the inset cabinets so I could use the icebox hinges and now I'm playing around with all the hardware on the installed cabinets and I am considering NOT using the icebox latches at all. A whole kitchen full of those little "tails" on the handles of the icebox latches add a lot of busyness/visual clutter to the kitchen, I'm realizing. On the other hand, cupboard latches (the oval knob style catches) look more streamlined (to my eye) and using them on every cabinet looks harmonious to me, rather than busy. Icebox latches introduce a strong horizontal line which I hadn't anticipated where I am trying to emphasize verticality of tall ceilings/stacked cabinets. The kitchens where I've seen ice box latches used most successfully always seem to use them selectively (NOT everywhere) and often on lower cabinets rather than uppers. I'm thinking of some kitchens I've seen here...katieob and meredithanneo's kitchens come to mind... there are others I'm forgetting, I will see if I can find any photo links for you... I think if you truly love them this much (have you gotten one and played with it yet?) you may be sad if you don't put one somewhere...would they work under you kitchen sink cabinet? To me that would be a sensible spot to have special hardware...you only have one sink cabinet (presumably?) so I feel that hardware can more easily stand on its own (just my opinion, and I tend to be very symmetrical/matching in my personal preferences, FWIW)

Lol (I'm reading the comments thus far).. I did learn I have the u channel set up. Thanks John. Back to the org post, I'm no pro but my shower is about 46 inches wide. If you have a 42" opening then can't the installer do a set up similar to mine, but with a door that is a couple inches less in width? The door I have is the widest I could go, per the installer, so I don't see why you couldn't just do a door a couple inches less in width with the same fixed side??? By the way, my installer let me scroll thru pics on his phone of his past work. I saw all sizes with both u channels (aka the strip lol) and clamps.. My glass is 3/8" thick... Half inch cost more of course. I didn't even have him quote me half inch... Let us know what you find out

Enduring- thanks for responding. I had seen your shower- it turned out just beautiful. I wasn't sure if in your research you'd explored a sliding glass door or not. To answer your questions. One end of the shower is on an exterior brick wall. The other is flanked by a custom linen closet surrounded by tile with the edges grouted. It's not coming out. If I had no other choice but to do doors, I'm pretty sure I'd have to remove tile on one or both ends and add the blocking- not something I'd like to do if I can avoid it. Likely I'd just have one door and a fixed panel on the other- I'm pretty sure the toilet clearance wouldn't let me do two doors like you have. Though I see your point about having a fixed panel- I can't drill into the shower pan so that wouldn't work either. Hopefully some of the glass guys can give me their opinion about using epoxy to secure clips on the bottom. Thanks again for your help- much appreciated. Lisa

If there are studs behind the fiberglass it will work. A stud finder can help or you can open up the drywall behind the shower to see if there are studs. European shower glass , 3/8", weighs 5 # per square foot, so most doors weigh around 85 # and need to go into studs.