What Should I Get Next?
PacNorWreck
7 years ago
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Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
My lawn care for the last 5 years...What should I do next?
Comments (5)Thanks joepyeweed and soccer dad, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I didn't want to add too much information in the first post and overwhelm. Cultural Practices: Yes, I mow at the highest setting and water deeply and infrequently. I am still learning how to measure fertilizer in #/1000sqft instead of using Scott's rotary spreader and throwing it on the lawn, but I think the lawn has plenty of Nitrogen. Using the Scott's 4 step program in the past, I've started with step 1 in late April/early June when the ground temp is 50-55F and I see Forsythia bloom. Other Scott's steps have followed 6-8 weeks after the previous one. As I read more on this site I find steps 2 and 3 are not so good and my constant use of fungicide in the past has probably killed the good fungus too. After reading up on healthy soil I'm betting mine is lacking at this time. While I know it is great to mulch I have bagged since my fungal problems started and, very unfortunately, mulching simply spreads the lawn diseases. I may mulch my leaves this fall. I pull weeds by hand or use weed-B-gon to spot treat. pH: The pH has been a long issue and I'm not sure why. I've had several tests from the local Coop Ext as well as my own solution tester. The back yard has been between 5 and 5.6 for the last 5 years and the front has dropped from 6.8 to 6.2. I do test before I apply lime but I don't know why I can't keep the pH up. This is one reason that the organic method appeals to me - less pH testing and liming. Fungus: I agree with your assessment that N is too high. I should go test that with my solution tester. This is another reason to not follow Scott's program to the letter and go with organic or something hybrid for my lawn. In the past I was uneducated regarding NPK/ compost/ microbes/ bacteria/ good fungus/ and simply followed the steps not knowing if I was putting down a 30-2-4 or a 4-15-10 (just throwing out numbers). Grubs: In year 3 when I applied 24hr control I did have a problem and the grass came up like a carpet. Since then I have used the 3month control (July/Aug/Sep) every year. I don't want to go through that issue again. My area is notorious for grubs and moles and I'm reluctant to skip grub treatment for fear that they will return and I will be unaware until it is too late. Overseeding: Aside from re-seeding small and large(30'x40') patches I haven't overseeded the lawn. I've seeded over some thin areas with some luck by hand and am considering renting a slit-seeder this fall to try and fill out the thin areas. I may wait until next year for this if it takes some time to amend the soil before seeding. Organic: I've been reading lots of posts here about organics and the FAQ is great too. I am going to search my local big box stores and feed stores for corn gluten meal, soybean meal, corn meal and alfalfa meal. And maybe even Scott's organic lawn food (I have lots of gift cards to Lowe's). I understand corn meal is for disease and I'd like to apply it now. How will it affect my current year schedule: Late April: Scott's step 1 Mid June: Scott's step 2 I don't want to over N the lawn again. I don't know much about compost and will read more. 1td/1000sqft sounds like a lot. I have a bad back, is there any way to spread compost other than by hand? A drop spreader? I've read how great compost is but I haven't seen it in any annual schedule. Is that because composting is a one time shot to get microbes and bacteria back in to the soil? How often should one apply a layer of compost? I definitely realize this isn't a quick fix but I'm looking to take the lawn in the proper direction. As long as my practices are good, I'm confident the lawn will respond in time....See MoreWhat should I get next?
Comments (3)Nothing beats success! My Paph. lowii (my love at first sight from last year's orchid show, which I found from a vendor at Christmas time) is spiking and the first thing I did after noticing it this morning was visit the website of the vendor I got it from. Back to your question - you know, coey, a true addict would just get both a Paph and a Psychopsis... Seriously, though, I'd suggest you go with a Paph - they won't mind the more temperate climes and numerous cloudy days. Psychopsis on the other hand are plants that love light and warmth. My Psychopsis are ok during the winter, but you can really tell the difference when the days start getting longer and warmer. Of course, many will tell you that Phals are also warmer growers so you might be ok with temps if you can get spikes on your Phal and ok with light if you can get two spikes on a Sharry Baby. In the end, you have to do what YOU want to do -- if you're in love with the Psychopsis and nothing else will do, go for it. Put it in front of your Sharry Baby (most light possible), acclimating it gradually. You might want to look into artificial lighting options too, just in case. Water when absolutely dry. And don't repot unless you absolutely have to -- those tips you read about their hating to be repotted are absolutely true. Another tip I give to all beginners is to join your local orchid society to see what growers near you have success or no success with, and how they get around what obstacles there are in your corner of the world. On top of that, it's a great way to discover new orchids and some members will even sometimes part with a division. Hope this helps, and welcome to the addiction. Julie P.S. My addiction went like this, in order: Phals, Oncids, New Guinea Dendrobiums, Chinese Cymbidiums, any species, mini Catts, small Vandaeceous, flasks, Paphs... It's an ever-evolving addiction, based on my tastes and what I actually have success with (NG Dends did not last long), which makes for a really mixed collection....See Morewhich next?
Comments (4)Thanks guys! I have read that Desert King is better in cool summer areas, which we definitely don't have. I'll check out the Black Mission, Marseilles, and LSU. I think I remember something good about LSU gold, but I'll have to refresh my memory. And I love the sound of the name "Col de Dame". I just looked, and it is reputed to be delicious in all its color varieties (black, green, white). It goes to the top of my list! I'll be interested in seeing about the Panachee myself. It's still a baby, no fruit yet. But it (along with the other surviving figs) has gotten through a tough year (winter, then late very hard freeze followed by record-breaking heat and drought) with virtually no care, so it's making the grade so far. Several other varieties (Osborne Prolific, Excel, Ischia Black and others) have already flunked out. We Shall See!...See MoreBought a lot - what should I do next?
Comments (6)We're finishing up a house on heavily wooded land with a well and septic. We are in Minnesota and things may be different in NJ, but it would have been fine for us to clear land before getting a building permit. Weirdly, our builder might have gotten in trouble for clearing our land before getting the permit-- I think the logic is that as the owner, you can cut down your trees, but a licensed builder who is planning to build a house can't start the building process, including clearing the trees, before getting the permit. So, if you know where you want to put the house, odds are you can go ahead and start clearing. However, it might be good to at least talk to an architect first, so you know where you are likely to need to put the septic, or whatever, and you don't have to pay for the tree guys to come out again later. In our area, the septic has to be designed for the house and the septic plans are approved along with the rest of the house plans in the building permit process. If you were to install a septic system before finalizing your house plans, it could be either very limiting or something you have to pay to fix. Our septic went in before we were connected to electricity, and our well went in after, but I don't think it mattered either way. The pump for the well needs power to bring water into the house, but they don't need electric to dig either septic or well. I would recommend spending your time coming up with a plan with an architect, and possibly improving the land-- planting screening trees if necessary, clearing scrub and weeds, that kind of thing....See MorePacNorWreck
7 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoPacNorWreck
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agobossyvossy
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoSammers510
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoPacNorWreck
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoPacNorWreck
7 years agojinnylea
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojinnylea
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoPacNorWreck
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years ago
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Laura LaRosa (7b)