True norfolk island pine have large spacing between branches and are symmetrical. Their needle like foliage on the branches are also long a narrow. Btw... you can buy them in stores during holidays. They are frequently mixed up but we do have one that is a true Norfork island pine bought at meijer. Another helpful tip is the branches along the main terminal come out growing upward and then may level out or droop. The cook's branches immediately grow outward or downward. N. Island pine are also known for the dark green foliage and less peeking bark as they are not actual pine trees but are tropical. First photo is of our norfolk. It is 4-5years. Sunburns easily in direct sun. Needs high humidity otherwise drooping like this occurs. It recently changed locations due to a move and is not happy. Second photo is foliage. The top foliage is a cook and the second foliage is a norfolk island. I hope this helps.

Just passing through and have to put my two cents in. Hope you don't mind. I just love Norfolks, almost an obsession, and probably have at least ten (notice I don't even know the count!). I have bought those little pots at Christmas time, stuffed with ten seedlings, with a couple decorations, then repot (just the potting soil sold in bags in Home Depot or the like) into individual pots. Love to watch them grow. Only trouble is, when they get about 8 - 10 feet tall, I have to cut the tops. Then they branch and get bushy. There's only a couple ways to kill them: First thing is, and most important, do NOT EVER let them dry out. If they do, that's it -- they're gone. The other thing is that they must never be frozen, although they have been exposed to freezing for a couple hours once. I've grown 8-foot in a ten-inch pot, almost never repot. They summer outdoors here in NJ, then are brought inside for the winter. They do need light. A patio door will do. Have grown them with East, West, and South exposures. Depending on your climate, they may be exposed to too much heat and not enough moisture. Maybe try a little shade? Would have to know more on this subject. BTW, at least one is over 30 years old. Smaller pots = smaller size. Also, I've started topping my smaller ones at about three feet to keep them small and bushy. Hope this helps. Good luck. Kitty

Well, I'm only guessing, but there's a long row of them growing at Manly in Sydney (NSW) by the beach and except for a few years ago when many were suffering from the effects of wind born pollution - from memory I think it was soap suds from a sewage outlet which apparently broke down their resistance to salt sea-spray. Other than that they've thrived despite pavement and millions of tourists feet over the years compressing the ground around them. They are around 100 years or more old and (conservatively) would be touching 80 to 100 feet or more. I would think all you have to be concerned about is weather - in the US they may not be accustomed to severe winters. If they appear to be growing ok, (and you have the space) just let 'em keep on keeping on. 'Google Earth', by the way, should highlight the Manly ones for you.

"A plant that isn't growing is dying." ~ Alex Shigo PhD ........... so it's wise to be concerned when your plant isn't growing - unless it's taking the winter off. NIPs should do almost all of their extending from May - Oct. Also, growth is often arrested and plants exhibit general decline because of a deficiency of one or more nutrients; so to withhold fertilizer from these plants is essentially a death sentence and illustrates that in a fairly high % of cases, getting the nutritional program straightened out or fertilizing is the ONLY solution, which comes full circle to the fact that the idea we should never fertilize a sick plant is painting with a brush a little too broad. There is a triangular relationship that involves soil choice, watering habits, and the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution. Together, these factors exert primary influence on root health, and roots are the heart of the plant. It's not possible to have a healthy plant w/o it having healthy roots. It's highly probable your plant is rebelling against too much water in the soil after repotting into the MG product. NIPs prefer sharp drainage and don't tolerate wet feet well, so your focus should be on ensuring the rootzone is appropriately conducive to a healthy root system. Al