response of collards to hard freeze
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- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
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Collards Question
Comments (27)Collards are probably the main reason i even have a garden....We eat them several times a week... grandma used to steam them for 45+ minutes with salt pork, a ham bone or neck bones and fresh picked red hot peppers.... I do not eat pork so I usually slow cook mine as well but with smoked turkey parts, onions and a few dashes of crush red peppers. Though I can cook spinach in 3 minutes flat, I like my collards cooked long & slow with very little water. My ex-Mother-in-law tends to make her more of a soup with a lot of water... As a kid, one of my chores was to pick collards from the backyard garden and my grandma insisted all of the greens be picked before the leaves for to be too big.... Even, by chance, if we went to a local grocer to buy greens, it was nearly a sin to bring home greens with big leaves..... was said they get bitter and too tough to cook properly. I am not fond of kale at all...I have an older neighbor who grows a lot of kale to sell at local farmer's market. He notes that his black customers seem to prefer collards while his white customers prefer kale....I tend to think its a more of a Northern/Southern thing since I literally live a few miles from the Mason-Dixon line. my mother & grandma both like to mix Collards with Mustard or turnip greens... I'm not as fond of that but my kids seem to prefer a mix of all 3. Collards tend to get gritty ( sandy) so I usually soak them overnight in vinegar before even attempting to further clean and cook them....that soaking also helps cut any potential bitterness the greens may have....See Morewatering trees before hard freeze?
Comments (16)What would we realize if we assume a soil that was saturated in the AM, then assume a day-long sun load, and further assume we are dealing with trees planted in bare soil (if it's not bare soil, the vegetation would shade the soil and a relatively insignificant amount of passive heat would be generated at the soil surface)? That's three assumptions we need to make before we start, so we're starting to look like the model set-ups that "proved" global warming. ;o) We would then also have to assume that there actually is a way to practically apply the idea that there is a critical temperature that kills the plant. I'll explain why that is technically true, put practically speaking - false. Even if we were dealing with trees in a bare soil, how much water remains in the soil by days end if we water it in the AM so it has a full day to 'absorb' heat? Only a minute amount in micro-pores and a microscopically thin layer on soil particulates - so not much of an addition to the soil as a heat sink. We also need to take into account that we KNOW the cooling effect of evaporation is greater than the sunlight that strikes water's surface. Case: The sun that passes through a water droplet on a leaf is capable of generating only .2 calories per minute, while a drop of water absorbs 3.75 calories as it evaporates; so the net effect of a a sun load on a wet surface is to cool the surface considerably as long as it's wet. When the surface dries and starts to warm, it increases the evaporation rate and heat absorption at increasingly deeper soil levels. Soil is a fairly poor conductor, and becomes an increasingly poor conductor as the volume of air in it increases. So, as what water remains in the soil evaporates, it reduces the effects of passive solar gain by absorbing a good portion of that heat. As the sun load decreases (dusk) the soil loses heat fairly rapidly, primarily through conduction and radiation, but also aided to some degree by convection. I'm unable to find where watering before a freeze would make a significant difference in soil temperatures over a cold night. We also need to examine the idea that "... the difference between life and death for a plant is a critical temperature over a critical period." I'll say briefly that the 'critical period' part is far less important than the 'critical temperature'. When bound (intra-cellular) water freezes, cells die as ice crystals destroy the cells. This usually happens in any plants planted out in the hopes they will survive the areas low temperatures (Lou's) at some temperature several degrees below freezing. While we can allow there is only 1 degree of dead in any organism, it's not practical to assume that the organism simply collapses at a given temperature. Neither roots nor shoots die in concert, they die incrementally. The softer/newer/more herbaceous tissues are the first to succumb to chill injury, with the injury progressing through more lignified and resistant tissues as the temperature falls. This fact effectively eliminates the thought that we can practically apply the idea that any finite temperature = the end of the organism. The best we can practically claim is that IF watering in-ground trees has any value at all, it would be limited to reducing the extent of chill injury. If we fall back and try to reinforce the idea that death is death, we need to look at the moment immediately before viability ends. At that point, what we are left with is not a tree we are likely to want. Al...See MoreHard Freeze on Monday?
Comments (33)On the barrel, putting a black barrel full of water in the greenhouse will absorb the heat during the day and give off heat at night. The problem is that sometimes we will have a few cloudy, or rainy days before a freeze so the black barrel is useless. Bury the barrel and it constantly absorbs warmth from the ground, and this can't fail. The buried barrel is mostly below ground and has two holes on opposite sides at ground level. The half barrel is out on top and has a three inch hole at the top. The barrel is filled 3/4 with water. The cold air that sinks to ground level goes into the bottom holes, is heated by the warm water, and then rises to go out the top hole. This creates a vaccum which pulls in more cold air and naturally circulates the warm air. When it was 20F outside, I checked the temps, the water was 62F, and the air in the top barrel was 58F going out. The main thing is that one cubic foot of water will produce 54.5 BTUs per hour. Figure how many BTUs you need to heat any greenhouse, and sink that much water in the ground to heat what you have. On the temps varying here in Lakeland, everybody's microclimate is going to be different. In my place, it is in a low spot. On the second day of a two day freeze event, when there is no wind, my place is 6 degrees lower than it is 1000 feet to the south. You have to look and see what the weather channel says you will have for your zip code and then just observe what you get for your low. After a few times, you can figure what you will get. I already know that whatever TWC says Brooksville will have, that is exactly what I will have. It has been fairly consistent for years....See MoreHard Freeze Forcasted for Monday Night
Comments (19)Wow, I figure if you're in SE CT you're in warmer zone than we are (we used to live in Salem/Niantic/Norwich 20yrs ago, didn't garden then). Sounds like we had about the same temps. Been dry here too - hope we get some rain today (well, I don't need it yet, but hope you get some). Hope your beets and turnips had minor damage to the leaves and recover. Lettuce is easy to replant. Our blueberries are budding like crazy, but looked OK (as far as I could tell) yesterday. Some of the stawberries don't look so good, but that's from all winter, not just this week. They're wild/alpine so we'll see how they fare. No flowers on those yet here thank goodness....See MoreRelated Professionals
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