I tried them all.......I had to work really hard and still got streaks until I listened to the folks here who said Bar Keep Friend. I didn't have any on hand so I used Bon Ami (guaranteed not to scratch). I used 2 cups hot water and about 2 tablespoons Bon Ami and kind of dissolved the Bon Ami in the water. I wiped it on with a soft towel, scrubbing where needed with additional Bon Ami and wiped it with a rinsed out rag. Dried it with a dry towel and in seconds, literally, no streaks, shiny, clean.........amazing ! I can't believe I wasted all that money on stainless steel cleaning products. I was ready to sell my stainless appliances because they looked so crummy all the time. No wax, no oil, no nothing but clean......yeah! Oh and the bottom freezer section is exactly how filthy the whole thing was.

If stainless is not "electro polished" (chemical passivation) then certain grades are more prone to corrosion. If you're seeing actual rust, it's more likely that the stainless steel was contaminated with "free iron" somewhere in the manufacturing process. This could be from machining tools that had also been used on iron or steel, steel wire brush, the drill bit used on the mounting holes, etc. Basically, anything previously used on another metal shouldn't come in contact with the stainless steel. The passivation process will remove the "free iron" and other contaminates from the stainless and promote the formation of the beneficial oxide film. I suspect that the pool hand rail and diving board manufactures don't use a passivation step on their stainless steel. It makes some sense given that prior to the advent of SWG (salt pools), there was little need. With the SWG, and thus the salt (electrolyte), it would make more sense to have this done. I'd ask the manufactures if they are using chemical passivation on their stainless steel products. If not, it may be worth having the process done on stainless steel that's going to live in a salt pool. Last but not least, I'm not sure about the use of Bronze or Brass anchors with stainless steel. With the presence of the salt in the pool, would that not promote galvanic corrosion? If the stainless is passive, it's the bronze/brass that will corrode, but with standard stainless, I think it's going to be the sacrificial lamb.

This is my clipping from sherrilynn: about any stainless steel sink. I recently had a huge compliment from my brother, a builder of high end homes. He was very impressed at how good my sink always looks. He is not a fan at ALL with SS. He prefers porcelain, which chips. I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished! Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too. I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish. I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple. Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings. When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'. I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work. I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean. I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p.. My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore. After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it.

Before getting a SS fridge, I used Weiman's SS Wipes on my SS cooktop, hood, and wall oven, successfully cleaning up cooked on messes on the cooktop (albeit with some time to let the wipe soak into the bad spots). But they left the fridge very streaky. I tried WD40 which did work but I sure didn't like the smell in the confines of the kitchen. Then, based on one of those 10-yr-old threads I think, I tried the Weiman's SS Spray Polish and that worked great! My fridge does NOT have an anti-smudge coating so YMMV. 1. Spray the polish directly on a small portion of the fridge (which for me is, in turn, each door and drawer in my French door-two drawer fridge) 2. Wipe completely with a microfiber towel before the spray dries. 3. Wipe again with a dry microfiber towel and voila! Hope this helps!