Cinnamon is really a neat material for us succulent plant growers. I can't recall when I first read about it, but I've done some research into the subject since and really am convinced. First and foremost, cinnamon contains a very potent natural fungicide: cinnamaldehyde (it actually contains a range of natural anti-fungals, but cinnamaldehyde is the most important). Cinnamaldehyde is also the chemical most responsible for the taste and smell of cinnamon! In a variety of legitimate, scientific studies (not just some guy out in his garden), this particular compound has been found to be effective against a variety of fungal infections in a variety of plants. It turns out that cinnamaldehyde is also a potent insecticide, although ground cinnamon probably isn't an effective delivery method. Beyond having antifungal properties, ground cinnamon is a strong desiccant. When applied to open wound, it draws out any excess moisture helping to callus over faster. Finally, it is relatively cheap, very easy to find, and clearly safe to handle frequently without any precautions. All these properties combined make it the ideal treatment for cuts in succulents. I use it anytime I cut a plant, stem, caudex, or root, for any reason. Be it pruning, or more serious surgery to excise rot, it always gets a healthy dose of cinnamon powder afterward. Incidentally, the stuff you buy at a grocery store is in fact ground cassia, not ground cinnamon. True cinnamon is much more expensive, and better tasting in my opinion. If you are curious, you can buy true cinnamon at specialty spice dealers like Penzey's. However, for use as a fungicide, ground cassia is just as good as true ground cinnamon, as they both have ample cinnamaldehyde.

So Al,..here's the thing...when someone challenges me to change my usual routine,my kneejerk response is to oppose them,right? Back in school,we had studio classes that really called on your creativity to solve the problems in assignments,so this is feeding the beast as well. A while back I was puzzling out how to get around perched water,and it occurred to me that if you took a chopstick and made a hole in your ummm let's just say "peat pudding" for example,and then fed a wick down the hole to hold it open. Logically,one would deduce that this measure would improve drainage,right? Somehow I think I addressed this with you before and at the moment my memory is failing me but I think the issue left was that flushing would still be incapable of removing all the salts,etc with all that fine particulate matter to contend with. Soooooo...soak it? Leach the salts out THAT way? There's got to be a way to get around doing what I was told was THE best way of solving this problem(and thus far I can't do it). It's like a creative assignment,and I usually set the curve in my classes so you can imagine how frustrating this becomes, lol Edited to fix typos. This post was edited by asleep_in_the_garden on Wed, Nov 19, 14 at 19:27

One thing to keep in mind with a ponytail palm is that the base stores a lot of water. Allow the soil to completely dry out between waterings. These plants need to be watered very thoroughly only every 1.5-2 weeks and they like to be somewhat potbound. Use a palm fertilizer, and just add a cup or two of sand to your potting soil and make sure your pot allows the water to drain. A screen in over the hole rather than taking up room with rocks works. They don't grow well in rocks, but a layer at the top of the soil can make a nice looking mulch and keeps the soil from crusting. No need to go to a lot of expense. They are not fussy plants. Providing humidity is a good idea, but I wouldn't continually spray as it could lead to other diseases. Hope you enjoy your palm. It's one of my favorites!

I'd advise to saw off anywhere it is rotting, until you reach healthy flesh. This will decrease the size of the base by quite a bit, but save it. After the wound callouses, you can replant it in better draining soil and it will hopefully root again.