New, blooming NOID oncid in what looks like potting soil - Repot now?
Edie
7 years ago
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Rescued a NOID... Now what? :)
Comments (10)Blossom girl, Little Trooper looks in pretty good shape to me. I would have bought it, too. 1. The aerial root-- I always try to get them covered in a rescue, and also in any repot. If it really is a rescue, it needs every root working for it. If you soak the plant in tepid water with a 1/4 dose of fertilizer in it for half an hour so, (or just plain water) the root will become more pliable. Bend it just enough to get at least the tip covered, so it can grow into the medium. If necessary, just put a few strands of sphag over it. 2. I can't tell what you repotted into, but sphag is excellent for rehabs. I think it has rot-inhibiting properties, and the roots that do start go on to develop. 3. What you call a wrinkled leaf looked turgid to me, but I may have missed what you were trying to show. The "float" I described in #1 could rehydrate a leaf that is that good, especially if you include the fertilizer. Be sure to get that leaf under the water. 4. The brown edge of leaf. Feel it. If it's hard, fuggedabout it. Or for insurance, get some cinnamon on thumb and forefinger and just rub over it, top and bottom, especially at the brown/green edge. If it's soft, you'll have to cut the brown piece off with a new razor blade. Spare as much of the leaf as you can, but cut into the healthy tissue near the soft brown to make sure you get it all. Dust the edge with cinnamon. 5. The indented spots on the leaves could be incipient trouble in the form of some kind of rot trying to start. I don't think it's a pest. a. It's a good idea to draw a circle around them with a black marker so you can tell if they grow, or if new ones start. If they start to grow or spread they are big trouble, and you may have to cut them out. But I think some cinnamon (with the better environment you are giving it) will help stop them in their tracks. Cinnamon is a good contact anti-bacterial, anti-fungal. You can just gently rub some over the spot, top and bottom, and it is likely to stop whatever it is from spreading. I've used it many times on leaves for various things that didn't look too good, and it always has worked. I've never seen cinnamon hurt a leaf, even a tiny new one only 1/4" or less, but it stops all sorts of trouble. Good luck. I think you've got a great start....See MoreNo Blooms...Should I Repot My Violet In A Plastic or Clay Pot?
Comments (10)BittyBatts Although the peat based potting soils degrade into very low Ph mediums, stunting plants, repotting should fix that. African Violets, potted in peat based potting soils, are fine with any water Ph 8 or under. My water is 9+ I add phosphoric acid to bring the water I use on plants to Ph 7. It was easy after I figured it out but required some math to find the parts per million of phosphorus. It also required knowledge of how to mix water and acid. how to store acid and how to dilute water with acid to the proper Ph. Trust me, water Ph, unless your water is so thick with dissolved solids you can plant in it and the Ph is above 8, you don't want to mess with it. It requires addition of acids, the best being food grade phosphoric which despite the label is extremely corrosive in its undiluted state. Also, it is necessary to know how much phosphorus (ppm) are being added when you bring the Ph down. Phosphorus is a fertilizer. It is possible to use citric acid (expensive) sulphuric (dangerous) or nitric (dangerous) so it is best to leave the water alone if you don't have an extreme problem. Or repot every 6 months to counteract the buildup of minerals and Ph in the soil Very high Ph water can, over time, seriously affect plants. Yellowing of leaves, poor growth and lack of flowers are the usual symptoms. This post was edited by lucky123 on Fri, Aug 8, 14 at 17:24...See MoreJust bought potted iris - safe to re-pot and expect blooms?
Comments (2)Probably won't bloom this year. Almost all buds are up already. You can tell for sure by gently placing your index and forefinger around the main fan or fans and sliding down. A 'pregnant' fan will have a slight bulge, from which a bloom stalk will emerge. Peat moss and Miracle Grow make for an acidy environment, and bearded iris do not like acid. I would use a bulb food fertilizer, possibly a little compost and forego the miracle grow. Also make sure there is sufficient drainage (you can add sand to the potting mixture, and make sure there is a hole in the bottom of the pot. Do not overwater). If you give it a large enough pot, good drainage and plenty of sun it should bloom for you next year. Laetiita...See MoreShould I repot Croton and Rubber Plant now if soil is less than ideal?
Comments (7)You can pot up anytime, though very late spring to early summer would be ideal. I'd wait until mid-June to do a full repot, which includes bare-rooting and root pruning. Plants have natural rhythms (search Circadian and/or endogenous rhythm). Over the course of the plant's rhythmic growth cycle, their stored energy levels and their ability to create energy/food waxes and and wanes. In most cases, to repot (as opposed to just potting up) a plant when its energy stores and ability to create energy are both on the wane is to ensure a much longer recovery period. Repotting and root work is a heavy hit for the plant. It draws down the plant's energy reserves much faster than would occur if you repotted in June, when both energy stores and current photosynthesizing ability are reaching peak levels would be at peak. Since a plant's natural defenses are a byproduct of it's metabolic rate, it's not difficult to see how a significantly weakened plant with compromised ability to defend itself, combined with a longer recovery period work in concert to make the plant far more vulnerable than it would be if you were patient enough to sync with the plant. Ecclesiastes 3:1 To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven: Your plants aren't in danger of serious decline due to root congestion, and they are small enough that, even if the soil they're in is VERY water-retentive, you can use a work-around that requires no special tools, materials, or knowledge, other than an understanding of how to put Newton's First Law of Motion to work on behalf of your self and plants, which I'm about to describe. When you water, water to beyond the point of saturation. The entire soil mass should be at maximum capacity and a good measure of the water used in your watering exercise (at least 15-20%) should have exited the drain hole. After the pot has stopped draining of its own accord, hold the recently watered planting over the sink and move it up and down. You'll soon see that on the reversal from downward to upward motion, quite a bit of water exits the drain hole, and the sharper the reversal, the more water exits the pot. An object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion [the water in the pot] stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force. When water ceases to exit through the drain hole, you'll have removed ALL perched water that has the potential to be of any consequence. Last, but not least, we all have a 'nurturing bone' - we like to take care of things. Knowing that you're planning for your plants' future in a way that allows you to take advantage of its strengths and make allowances for it's weaknesses for no reason other than it's in the best interest of the plant, offers the grower a much greater sense of personal gratification than an approach that lacks that planning. Al...See MoreEdie
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agotiarella
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