Replacing 1956 Hotpoint Oven with.....
djkiwi
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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homepro01
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Might replace 5 yr old Miele dishwasher :( -need advice
Comments (117)I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess....See MoreDo we believe Consumer Reports (wall ovens)
Comments (18)I have been reading consumers reports (more or less) since 1972. They tend to put a very high weight on reliability. The luxury appliance brands such as Thermador and Viking often require far more repairs than the mid-range products (I have owned Thermador, a lot of parts broke off that refrigerator). If a high-volume manufacturer made a mid-range product that was unreliable, they would be out of business very quickly due to warranty claims. CU will tend to pick something at the 65th percentile in the market - the product that EVERYBODY is buying and it's successful because the manufacturer gives good value AND MORE SO reliability for money. American brands with a longterm (50-year) reputation for reliability are Kenmore, KitchenAid (=Hobart), and Whirlpool/Maytag (although we just got totally screwed and had to write off a $1300 Maytag over after 2Y which is why I'm on this website tonight.) Ralph Nader is the most senior consumer advocate in Amerca and he killed off the Chevy Corvair which was "Unsafe at Any Speed" with his book, and he probably saved 100k lives, any consumer advocacy organization should be PROUD to have Ralph Nader on their board of directors! CU also has some stupid biases, such as "Subaru always wins our 4WD car tests before we've even bought our cars" and "Camry is the best american midsized car, always has been, always will be." Another is, "Tesla Model 3/Y touch screens are so horrible and impossible to use that nobody could possibly operate a Tesla" (truthfully the touch screen is a revolution allowing Tesla to upgrade the car, fix MANY recalls, and even upgrade performance from 0-60 in 3.5s to 0-60 in 3.2s for my Model 3P+, and they also added Netflix / YouTube / Spotify / Pandora streaming via over-the-air download.) It used to be (early 1970s) that CU would actually publish measured specs of the items they reviewed (SNR, THD, radio sensitivity, etc.). They became intellectually dishonest in mid 1980's by changing to a rating system of "well below", "below", "average", "above average", and "well above average". They did this because were making mistakes and they were getting sued. I repeat: THEY DID THIS TO COVER UP THEIR MISTAKES. They did an absolute hatchet article on Bose Speakers and I heard Amar Bose justifiably complain about CU in a speech at MIT. They don't have guys in labcoats doing tests those are just actors posing for "style" photographs. Bose speakers do not have sound that "wanders about the room". CU's president claimed, "Nobody takes our magazine seriously It's an entertainment magazine!" to Amar Bose! When CU tested bicycles (my area of expertise) they made a truly horrific blunder by not categorizing models into narrow price ranges as it's a get-what-you-pay-for market and the main differentiator is how frameset geometry and wheel/tire choice impact ride comfort and handling. Just about the only CU reports that are intellectually honest these days are the reader surveys because CU is not making any measurements nor are they coming up with magic weighting schemes to over-emphasize subjective usability measures (such as Tesla controls) in the overall "product score". So, rely on them for product / brand reliability, especially among cars!...See MoreOT~What do you clean your dishwashers with?
Comments (47)I've had a couple of problems with my 10 year old DW recently, and got both manufacturer's (Maytag) and DW repairman's input. I also got some advice from my kitchen GC, for whatever that was worth. Sometimes grime can build up around the door gasket. Wipe down once in awhile. Seals are made of rubber; rubber will deteriorate. Best kind of detergent for MY dishwasher is powdered. Liquid leaves a residue on the sides and internal parts of the dishwasher that will build up over time. (YMMV depending on your DW age and brand, on this.) If one is having a problem with odor, run bleach through the machine ONCE according to the manufacturer's directions, but don't use bleach all the time (yes, it's havoc on the rubber gaskets). Read your manual, it should tell you whether bleach is OK in your machine. It may also tell you what the best variety of detergent is, for your machine. If you lost your manual, try finding another one by going to the manufacturer's website. (I lost my DW manual and was able to download a new one, free.) If all else fails, call your manufacturer (phone number should be on the website too). Use one repairman/repair company, so that they can keep track of service on your machine. My DW repair guy just told me last week - new DW's have a lifespan of 7 to 10 years. The older ones like mine have a 15-year lifespan. Mine has only been repaired twice - a rubber door gasket and a water valve - pretty good for a 10 year old machine, he said. DonnaR/CA...See MoreInduction range with 2 ovens?
Comments (9)Belling induction ranges are also on offer in Australia and NZ. (That from a a recent thread here discussing 24 inch (aka 30cm) induction ranges.) Like Askogirl, I'never seen any indication of the brand being offered here in North America, either. So, maybe one less thread to chase? The ten heat settings for burners thing is a design aspect, not a price-related one. Heck, the $7k Miele range has only 12 steps for its burners. Most of the less expensive portable induction cookers have only ten (some have fewer.) Only ten on the entire range of Whirlpool models (including Maytag, KitchenAid and Jenn Aire), the $5k Dacor F&P models, the new $3.6k LG slide-in, and the two Samsung slide-in induction ranges. (Samsung's freestanding ones have 19 settings). Some of us here have found 10 to be too few --- we always seem to be needing something between setting 1 and 2 or between 2 and 3 for our cooking, and so have gravitated to GE, Miele cooktops, Bosch, and Frigidaire-Electrolux, etc.. Others here, presumably with different cooking interests, have been fine with 10 or 12 burner settings. . FWIW, The Electrolux slide-in has (IIRC) 22 or so settings with extra steps at the low end where it seems to matter more. Folks with other ranges and cooktops seem happy with the more common 16 to 20 settings. As for cooking in the Electrolux "baking drawer," I'm recalling (but not finding) threads from 4 and 5 years ago where folks cooked in casseroles and baking dishes, made muffins, etc. in it. Some of the early adopters found their baking drawers apparently got pretty hot and caused concern about the finish on hardwood floors beneath the stove. I don't recall having seen any of those complaints recently. Also, I'm seeing references that say the lower oven will heat to 450° F -- that is baking, btw, not broiling. If still interested, it would be best to take some of your cookware to a showroom to see if and how it fits. For the Breville (or Cuisinart combi-steam), they also function as toaster ovens, so maybe that helps a little with counter space? Also, they are small enough to stash someplace off the counter when you do not need them -- assuming your small cabin has any room for storage....See Morecookncarpenter
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