Over-watering is the most likely cause, so I would make sure you take steps to ensure you're timing water applications appropriately. You can keep better track of soil moisture levels with a 5/16" wood dowel rod cut in half (2 - 24" pieces) and ends sharpened in a pencil sharpener. A bamboo skewer will also work, but not as well as the dowel rod. Push it deep into the soil - as in all the way to the bottom. Don't water until it first appears dry when removed after a few seconds in the soil.

Have you fertilized or supplied any other products to your plant? Has it been exposed to cold temps? Is the large pot a cache pot w/o a drain hole and does the plant sit in the water that drains from the main pot?

Al

Thank you! Though ACK! I just watered again because I thought it was too dry ... I just bought a water meter, so hopefully that will help too! I have never fertilized the plant as I've only had it for 2 months. It is next to a window and it's winter, so it maybe a little cold? It is in a pot with holes and I just added some balls into the outside pot so the water won't touch the main plant pot and have been dumping excess water.

To add to what Al said, have you come across this thread yet? If not, you should give it a read as there's a ton of useful information.

I also wanted to add that if it's still ailing after you've corrected the watering issue, it's probably not getting enough light in a NE window. I'm also in NY and the only place that my FLF is happy during these shorter winter days is directly in a south/southwest facing window. I think "bright indirect" does not really apply for FLFs in our zone at this time of year (though I'll happily stand corrected by someone more knowledgeable). At the very least I think you're much better off putting it in full sun in your NE window, if possible. Though to be clear, I'm saying this keeping in mind the time of year; if it were summer, then bright indirect would probably be a better option.

Thank you Jaycee! I am going to move it tomorrow to somewhere with more light. I do think it's a bit dim in that corner (even though it looks so nice there). I had not seen that thread - thank you for sending!

Use a dowel/unfinished chopstick/skewer. The first time I checked moisture with a dowel I found that the moisture meter I relied on said the soil was bone dry when it was still very moist, and my ficuses definitely love drying out between watering. My 3/8" dowel, broken in half with all four ends sharpened in a pencil sharpener, is cheap, fast (it only has to be in the soil for a few seconds), easy, and completely reliable.

BTW, I'd get rid of the moss or whatever is covering the soil because it slows evaporation and provides a great habitat for bugs.

Definitely don't water until you're positive the soil at the bottom is completely dry. At that point there's still a significant amount of moisture inside the particles and available to the roots, so don't be nervous; just check the soil moisture daily once the top of the pot starts to dry out, and keep your watering jug locked away until the dowel comes out completely dry and unstained by soil.

Thanks for the advice litterbuggy! I will remove the mossy thing (the designer put that there when they gave it to me) and lock away my water jug! I definitely have a tendency to panic and water ...