Roseseek you have me wanting to experiment with budding now too! I have been scouting videos and how-to articles about different ways to bud/graft roses since your recently encouraged me! :)

This video from Australia shows the chip method right? I'm not really clear on all the different names for methods. This way doesn't look too hard though. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WpyJDV6782Y

I'm in Northern California too Jason. Just curious, what rootstock are you planning on using?

I'm thinking getting into grafting/budding might be good for cultivating my own patience too. :)

I'm glad, Cori Ann! Yes ma'am, it can teach patience, as can breeding roses and raising new seedlings. The video you linked is the traditional "T" bud. He's making a T shaped cut and inserting a bud. That's the most common technique used to commercially produce budded roses in the US.This video showing Bob Belendez of the Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society budding is Chip Budding. For commercial production, it's not suitable, but for home use, it is the easiest and fastest. I originally learned to T bud and it is much more dependent upon the condition of the stock than chip budding.

Well... I just contacted the FPS program at UC Davis to see if they have any Fortuniana rootstock available still. It's way beyond their order time period, but maybe they have some that I can get rooted now and graft onto in late spring. If not, I can always wait until next season. No rush! Let's see what happens!

If you want the link too Jason here you go.. http://fps.ucdavis.edu/roseselections.cfm

Many different rootstocks available during their ordering season (which ended in October), but maybe they still have some now for hobbyists. :)

From what I've seen with friends who have ordered from FPS, they strictly hold to their schedule. I would suggest that unless you have real HEAT where you are, Fortuniana is likely not the stock you want to work with. It worked quite well when I lived in the San Fernando Valley, where even in "winter", I could count on days into the eighties. Now I am on the "coast" and the temperatures are twenty-plus lower, Fortuniana simply doesn't push bud growth much of the year. They take, but they don't push. Huey, IXL, Pink Clouds, Cardinal Hume, De la Griffarie and many of my own seedlings have pushed and are pushing scion growth where Fortuniana's just sit. Or, they begin to push then stall. If you're budding something from your own, or a local, garden, that's OK. But if you're trying something you've obtained from some distance away, it isn't good.

I just want to say thank you roseseek because if I was able to learn how to "chip budding" is due to all the your wealth of great pictures and posts here on GW and your blog. I budded on Fortuniana all the yellow Tea-Noisettes (aka Marechal Niel, etc...) I get my hands on. My success rate is not good but still I was able to bud and grow some plants for my own garden. THANK YOU!

Thank you roseseek! It's a hard call for me as a newbie because we do have pretty serious real heat here, but it gets into the 70s and 60s in winter, not really the 80s (that's more fall weather here). But it it also gets into the 30s and 40s at night in the winter. I'm in a valley with little mountains all around so the coastal mild weather is mostly blocked from here. It's a good microclimate to be in, since we have heat and also still have more rain than socal. But it makes it confusing to figure out which rootstock might work well! I should probabaly join a local rose society to discuss with others in the same area.

How neat, Izzy! I'm delighted by your success! It's fun, isn't it? Just like riding a bike (or anything else), practice makes perfect! You're both most welcome! This is what makes it fun, isn't it? Cori Ann, I honestly don't think a rose society is going to be of much help determining what root stock for you to use. Many don't do much propagating and if they do, it tends to be more own root. If you have severe alkalinity issues, you likely want to avoid the more multiflora types (IXL, De la Griffarie, multiflora itself). Dr. Huey, for all his bad press, is still a great stock that is very easy to use. Harkness' Cardinal Hume I have found to be a marvelous root stock. It roots like a weed and grows perfectly in SoCal own root. It has accepted every bud I have ever placed on it. I inserted four Baby Faurax buds on a 3' whip of Hume I rooted back in 1994. All four took. When I moved in March, 2015, I dug that standard up and gave it to a friend back in the LA area. She potted it and it still grows in her garden. Hume has never had any chlorosis issues anywhere I've planted it. And, good, old Pink Clouds has worked just fine all over California. Then, there is also the good, old stand-by, Gloire des Rosomanes (Ragged Robin), which was THE stock here before someone confused Dr. Huey with it around WWII. I know all of the above, except Pink Clouds, are virus indexed, hence from of RMV. Malcolm Manners tested Cardinal Hume when I sent it to him. Pink Clouds should be clean. Sequoia maintained a huge mother block of it for decades, only propagating from that block and never budding anything to it. I have all of the above and can put you in contact with others who can possibly share already rooted pieces (but not dis budded for budding) with you so you can get a mother plant started, from which to root your root stocks. Interested?

Roseseek you are such a great inspiration for a novice like me. I have a Clementina Carbonieri budded on Ragged Robin chugging along and I am praying nothing happens to her since I lost the mother plant to lack of vigor in my costal climate. Where can I get pink clouds and or cardinal Hume? I would like to start some mother plants for my future attempts. Thanks! Izzy:)

Thank you roseseek, I have had 90% success with grafting on trees, mostly with cleft or splice. I usually graft in feb or march here in nor California. I'll probably try with roses around the same time and cross my fingers.

@Cori, I don't know what root stock or verities I got, there are no tags on them. What kind of roses you have? Any high fragrant ones?

Roseseek thank you so much! I was thinking about buying Cardinal Hume in the past because I really just like the look of the rose and the idea of using it as a climber across a fence. Having it as a rootstock mother plant gives me another reason to get it! I would be very interested to know where to get a plant or cuttings that are virus free so I could start her up as a mother plant. Thank you for inspiring and teaching so many of us! :)

@Jason - how strange that there were no tags! Yes I have several roses that I recently put in after a backyard remodel. I am fond of fragrance so most all are fragrant. Most are also own root. I try to keep the varieties I have current on HMF... try this link... https://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=3.24840&tab=2.

If the link works it will show the different rose varieties I have. All seem to be doing very well.

I was thinking that it could be fun to just try to bud the varieties I already have on Fortuniana to see how they do in comparison to own root. Maybe if I get a mother plant I could do the same thing with Cardinal Hume. It would be a fun experiment to compare and contrast the roses on different rootstock in my yard. And no real pressure since I would just be budding things I already have. :)

That's my thought process as I start to learn how to do this. :)

I thought I was on top of things in my backyard, from fruits to veggies but I just found out that roses are my week point and I need a lot of catching up to do. I'm completely new to rose verities and their root stocks, I have had them in previous houses and enjoyed their color and fragrance, never got to the verities and root stocks. I only have 5 of them in my new house, they bloomed with average fragrances. I wasn't too impressed with flower sizes and fragrance, that was the reason I opened this post. I was hoping to have multiple verities on every bush.

Thanx

I think the more I read posts within these forums the more I realize how much I don't know! It's in a good way though. :)

Well, enjoy your rose journey Jason! There are so many different types that grow exceptionally well here in the warmer parts of Northern California. We are very fortunate!

True that, are there any scion exchange events held in our area? I know and have attended California rare growers events where you get to select branches of fruit trees of your choice for grafting on your existing trees.

Hmmm... I am not sure Jason. I'm a totally newbie to grafting so I wouldn't even know where to look.

The FPS program at UC Davis did approve my super late request for Fortuniana root stock tho! I think I was the last one of the year!

So I guess we will see how Fortuniana does in my area! :)

Excited to try something new!

Good deal, glad you got fortunia rootstock Cori Ann :) Have fun grafting, you'll fall in love with this new hobby once you get some experience under your belt.

Cheers

Cori Ann, Fortuniana demands a lot more heat to hold the buds than the others. I budded nineteen Fortuniana stocks a few weeks ago and all buds took and began pushing. Now I am watching them all turn black... Yet, the Dr. Hueys I budded at the same time are growing like crazy. If you would like to send me your email address through private message here, I can put you in touch with someone who can share cuttings of the virus indexed Cardinal Hume and several others. She doesn't have them already rooted, but she has some material you can root then root pieces from upon which to bud.

Roseseek, since I don't have fortuniana rootstock and I don't know what kind of roses/rootstocks I currently have... do you recommend I should still try to graft on them or not waste time/cuttings at this point? I might be able to get pope John Paul ii, double delight and honey perfume cuttings in a week or so.

I wouldn't waste the material. With roses, your best chances of success are when the stocks are growing vigorously, not when they are shutting down for the "cold". When your warm weather is in full swing, feed and water them well so they are as actively growing as possible, then bud on them. We were still experiencing the warmer days when I budded these last ones. My Fortuniana was pushing like mad, even flowering, then it turned "cold" (at least for here) and they shut down. If you can obtain the cuttings in late winter to early spring, you could try wrapping them for rooting. If you can obtain them later, when they are flowering, you can try the plastic bag or bottle rooting method. If you can get them in high summer, you should be able to bud them successfully.

Thank you so much roseseek!

For the Fortuniana, I didn't think FPS would approve my request, but since they did I was thinking that I would just root them for now. It's going to get cold here in January (well, cold for here), but it will probabaly be our rainiest month so I was thinking now it would be a good time to just root them and let them slowly grow. If it's like last year, in February/March it will warm up but still be mild in the 70s/80s. I was thinking late March I would try to bud on to them.

April should stay below 100, but once May hits it will probabaly hit the 100s again until September and it's hard to keep up with water at that point for even established plants. I don't usually have good success rooting May-Sept, so I thought I wouldn't try to bud then either. Sounds like May might be ok for Fortuniana though.

Now through April is a quiet, relaxing time in the garden when I'm not on heatstroke watch. I usually have a pretty good success rate rooting now, with little effort since it's so mild and finally rainy. I figured I could read up on budding now to wrap my head around it then try it late spring.

Its a great time to get some Cardinal Hume too! Thank you so much for your assistance and guidance! :)

You're welcome! I know for sure the Cardinal Hume I sent Malcolm Manners and a few of us grow, is virus indexed because he tested it. I do not know whether any other sources of Hume are virus free or not as there is no way to know whether they have been budded on to questionable root stocks or had something unclean budded to them. I well remember the "heat stroke watch"! I don't miss that watch one bit!

Thank you so much roseseek for all your help and guidance, much appreciated. I'll wait till spring as Cori Ann mentioned, then I'll may be try to bud and take my chances. I hate to get rid of the roses I currently have but I might have to do so if budding don't work on them.

Thank you again and happy holidays :)

You're welcome, Jason! Just keep them alive until you have enough stocks rooted to bud them to so you can replace them with more vigorous specimen. If you've been able to keep them going all this time, it shouldn't be too difficult to keep them around until then. Happy Holidays to you, and yours, too! Thank you!

Hope all you rose lovers are having a great year so far. So is it time yet to graft? Here in Bay Area it will be mild for the next 10 days or so. We are at highs of 60s and lows of upper 40s. Anyone grafted in zone 9b recently?

You don't want to graft until the plants are actively growing. You need good sap flow to prevent the bud from drying out and allow it to callus to the stock. Are your stocks pushing lots of new foliage and growth? If they are, you might be able to safely bud. If they aren't, you probably would be better off waiting until they are.

Yes they are pushing, lots of new growth some as big as few inches. I grafted on my quince and plums, seems like they are a success.

I'm going to wait until the day temps are consistently in the 80s and maybe even 90s. Plus my little Fortuniana cuttings need to grow more. Some of them are starting to bud. Not sure what to do about that!

Its been in the 70s for me, so not too long. Although it's still been in the 40s/50s at night lately.

I'm going to wait until it's warmer.

Good idea Cori, I was a little to anxious and tried both budding and cleft grafting last Sunday. Budding didn't work coz bark didn't seperate freely when I cut my T, cambium wasn't slippery. Cleft didn't work either :(

Chip budding can work even when the others don't, but it's still more desirable to wait until the sap is flowing freely. If you're using a multiflora type stock, which seems to generally have thicker cambium than wichurana and Fortuniana types, you can often chip bud much of the year. That's why Burling prefers Pink Clouds. She has success chip budding to it the longest of anything she's used. I have found the same with it.

Sorry to slither in, but was just wondering since I live in Oahu, Hawaii and the roses are all blooming wonderfully, which if any of these current roses have the best chance of being a good parent plant?

Mel's Heritage

Louis Philippe

Archduke Charles

I have an active growing Dr. Huey (which sprouted from dead Summer Love) so was also going to practice chip budding onto the plant, then if successful, air layering it.

Any advice or insight would be helpful!

Help Me Find lists three offspring of Louis Philippe. One is a mutation; one is from its seed and one from its pollen. Archduke Charles is a mutation of Old Blush and has produced only mutations. That doesn't necessarily mean anything other than no one has reported raising any seedlings from it, but seedlings have been raised from Old Blush. Mel's Heritage may be fertile, or not. There are no listed crosses involving it, either direction. Again, though, that only means no one has reported raising any crosses from it. Of the three, I would think Mel's Heritage would be the most interesting to try, because of its parentage and the fact no one has reported any results from it. Unless you're going to try something really far out, like species crossed with Archduke Charles or Louis Philippe, you are likely to raise "more of the same" from them.

Thank you so much for your reply.

I'm still very much a beginner so was just looking at which would be best to chip bud on so if it's successful, I would try to air layer it. I haven't been successful at all with chip budding but I have my new graft knife and parafilm burning a whole in my pocket :)

You're welcome. Actually, you can chip bud on almost anything. You have to either chip bud or cleft graft on Fortuniana because the bark is so brittle it won't lift for regular "T" budding. It seems multiflora types are particularly suited for chip budding as they appear to have thicker cambium layers, making it easier to accomplish the chip budding. That is why Pink Clouds is so easy and remains in suitable condition for chip budding for such a long period of the year. Burling reported she can chip bud on it almost all year. I hope you find your grafting knife comfortable and easy to use. I've tried many and keep going back to single edge razor blades. They never need sharpening; you can pretty much dispose of them when you want so there is little need to clean them and they are sharper than any knife I've ever tried.

That video of the budding was great. I especially liked seeing all the cuts on the guys fingers!