Proper prepping, a good primer, and thin paint coats are essential. Have you researched the internet for DIY cabinet painting tutorials?

Honey oak is not terrible:)

Oak is not a paint grade wood because the texture of the grain shows through. This bothers some, but not others. It really just shows that they are older oak cabinets that are painted. Wood moves with changes in temp and humidity which cracks the paint at the joints - an upkeep issue which bothers some, but not others. That is why factory painted cabinets are usually MDF or MDF and wood combined - paints better and is more stable to movement. No painted over stain surface is going to be as durable as a factory finish. I tell you this not to deter you, but so you know what you might expect. Paint can give new life to cabinets that are worn or as in your case, you just don't like the color. I painted some of my original oak cabinets and put them in the laundry room. I have kept my present oak cabinets and simply did a kitchen refresh because I like the warm wood tone. I've got both and like both.

We usually recommend having cabinets professionally painted unless you are an experienced DIY person. It is an arduous task and if not done properly, you will need to get new cabinets sooner that you may have wanted. However, if you really feel up to it and don't think there is much value in the cabinets anyway, then its up to you to see if you want to go for it. I am not too familiar with the kit. You will nee a good primer - either Zinsser 123 or Zinsser BIN and a good cabinet paint. I uses a latex acrylic enamel. Rustoleum makes Zinsser products, so it might be in the kit. A good local paint store can also help you get together the right products. I do not recommend paint and primer combo paints or chalk paint for cabinets.

I just painted my rental property kitchen cabinets last summer that were oak (decent quality just looking worn from tenants). I removed the doors and drawer fronts, cleaned them multiple times with a degreaser to remove built up grease, sanded (I used a sander (200 grit maybe) for the flat parts and hand sanded the recessed areas). Then I cleaned again and vacuumed to remove any dust. Then I used a high quality primer that my paint store recommended (BIN I think). Then I used 2 coats of Cabinet Coat and sanded lightly between coats (and vacuumed them again).

The cabinet coat was a really nice paint and highly recommend it. I used 2 quarts I think overall. I did use a cabinet roller for the flat parts and a high quality brush for the recessed areas but if I did it again in my own house I would use a brush for all to decrease slight stippling from the roller. Make sure you look over the cabinet door a few minutes later for drips around the edges.

They turned out great and are holding up. Try to let them cure a few days before hanging them and replacing the knobs. I think it took me a full weekend to do it but it was only a small kitchen (14 doors and 4 drawer fronts).

Edited to add that it must have been 2 weekends as the removing/cleaning/sanding was one weekend the painting the other since the paint needs 6 hours in between coats)

FeatherBee your kitchen looks beautiful! :) I don't think they look dated at all. They go very well with everything. What kind of prep work did you do ahead of time?

Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I really want to do this. I just want to make sure I do it right. I'm not afraid of taking my time but at the same time would like a somewhat simple process if that makes sense? I'm most likely going to be doing most of this myself. I'll see if my husband can help me with the prep and I can do the painting. (I'm a perfectionist lol)

rantontoo a youtube video on the Rustoleum kit is what really got me thinking I could do this. I'll have to look up more videos and see what techniques people use. I think the main thing I am kinda not wanting to do is sanding :( I mean if it's necessary I will but if I can do this without it even better.

I have read some real negative reviews about using the Rustoleum kit product. I would sand and paint...you do not have to get down to a total bare wood finish. Can you post a picture of your cab doors? Sanding may not be as bad as you think. The very light sanding between coats goes quick.

thank you Hareball :)

I do love my painted cabinets and enjoy the new space over the old space.

Prep: remove doors, label them, clean, clean again, dry, dry again, prime, paint, dry...

I used a drill and removed all the door fronts (I also labeled them), then lightly sanded with a sander, then cleaned with TSP, then wiped doors clean/dry, and then wiped them again just to be sure no dust was left on them... Next comes primer (I used Cabinet Coat). Cabinet Coat is paint and primer in one, so technically you could just use CC. I didn't know much about paint back then so I just used what the paint store told me. After primer I didn't sand anymore, but I read that it helps, so you could lightly sand after priming, but I didn't. Next came paint. I used BM's Advanced paint - it's NOT oil based so no harsh smells and easy clean up. This paint levels beautifully.

I did two coats of primer and two coats of paint... It took me FOUR months... But I took my time and only painted a couple doors each week. I also let the doors cure/dry for about two weeks before putting them back on. My kitchen was pretty ugly during the process lol but it was worth the wait. I didn't paint the inside of the cabinets... Mostly because I knew it wasn't my forever kitchen. And it's a lot of work...

Overall, I really enjoyed the process...

I will post a picture of my cabinets in a bit when I get home. Only if yall promise not to laugh lol They're not pretty. My house needs some fixing up so I do it a little at a time. My garage has wood paneling just to give you an idea of what I'm working with haha :)

There are a bunch of tutorials and "how they held up" reviews on Pinterest, also.

I would also like to add, I had a lime green kitchen once and LOVED it. :)

The sanding is not to remove finish-it is done to scuff up the finish so the paint adheres. It is really a few minutes per cabinet but I think it is pretty important.

I agree with everything cleo07 said. You can do a good job if you use quality paints and do all the prep! You don't need the rustoleum kit, and don't believe it if they tell you that you don't need to sand. You do! No matter what kind of paint you use, you need to sand! It's the least fun, most tedious part of the job but so important if you want the paint to stick, especially important when going over a clear coat. I've done my bathroom cabinets in both bathrooms, used BIN and 123 Primers and Cabinet Coat paint. It was a good amount of work, so I can't imagine doing a whole kitchen. But, if you take your time, slowly but surely you'll get it done. By the way, honey oak really isn't so bad, I think the only negative is that it was so overused in the 80's and 90's. It seems such a shame when people throw out good, sturdy cabinets that can be refurbished with some hard work and paint.

I did my cabinets in about 4 days using the same method and materials as Cleo07 with one exception- I used only a brush. Cabinet Coat is awesome paint. I had only one 10' stretch of (1920's) cabinets though.

Wow! 4 days! That's impressive! I just painted a bedroom set, 2 nightstands, dresser, chest and mirror and it took me weeks!

Yeah I think it's a waste to throw out perfectly good cabinets and don't want to pay someone a lot of money if I can do it myself. :) I can probably do this in chunks then. Just gotta keep the pets out of the kitchen somehow lol

Ok so these are the things I need?

- Degresser/deglosser ? (cleaner of some sort)

- sand paper

- Cabinet Coat primer

- paint

- tape

- brush(es)

Do I need a top coat of any kind or will this do? What finish did you all use for your cabinets? As in are there different kinds as with wall paint (satin, eggshell, etc.) Is there anything I'm missing or does this look right? :)

bump! :)

Yes - those are not oak and possibly not even solid wood - they may have a veneer so don't sand too hard. The Zinsser products actually say no sanding is necessary, and I did not on my laundry room cabinets as there was very little gloss to start with. The primers do need time to cure - you can still paint over them, but handle the doors carefully for about a week. Do remove the doors and all hardware before painting. Sometimes the drawer fronts are removable from the drawer box. Have a good area to paint. Cabinet Coat is the top coat I believe - the Zinsser is the primer. Zinser 123 is latex so water clean up. The BIN is I think mineral spirits clean up. It is great for really glossy surfaces, but you may be able to get away with the 123 for easier clean up. I've been perfectly happy with the 123. I have not used the Cabinet Coat. I use a latex acrylic enamel recommended by my local paint store. Get brushes that are appropriate for the paint.

I recommend that you take a cabinet door or drawer down to your local reputable paint store and have them help you gather the products. They may have different top coats - most of the name brand paints now have a cabinet paint. If it is a good brand, it should do fine.

Although a lot of paints and primers say no sanding needed, I would do it anyway. Scuffing the surface a bit helps the primer to grab hold. If they are veneer, yes, light sanding, not to get all the finish off, just to rough it up a bit. BIN works well, but it does have an odor, although it dissipates quickly. Just be sure to have good ventilation when you use it. What it is good for is sealing any tannin bleed through that a water based primer may not completely do. I've used both BIN and 123 primers, both will do a good job. Cabinet Coat or any paint made for cabinets does not need a clear top coat. I'd let the paint cure a few days before rehanging doors and knobs. I used Cabinet Coat in a satin finish, I think it comes in Semi gloss too, but I'm not sure about that.