Many of my neighbours have had sewage problems, now what should I do?
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
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What should I do with my hydrangea tree now? HELP!
Comments (7)Rb, you don't tell us because you don't want us to know or because you don't know? Just kidding (gggg). Re: dieback. It's my understanding that PG trained as a standard and left to its own for years (typical example would be old PGs growing at cemetaries) could become very unkemp looking by the reason I call 'visual dieback'. I have an unsubstantiated theory about this and would be glad to have everybody's opinion about it. As branches become thicker and thicker bark on them become thicker as well, leaf buds can't penetrate it and new growth occures only at the tips of the old long branches. Some adventurous buds that still will be able to grow thru the old bark spend most of their energy to do so and are not productive. Since new growth is not produced anymore neither from the base of the tree nor from the most of the lenghts of the old branches you'll see new growth and flowers only on outside part of the plant. That is creating how I call it a 'visual dieback' effect. In a PGs trained as a trees this effect could ruin the whole appearance while in a shrub form it doesn't play such role. Hope you remember this pictures I posted here a few times Obviously nobody pruned this, planted in 1978, shrub for at least last 20 years. I got a chance to see it very close. Upon close inspection the main trunk become a 6 or 7 trunks growing together sometimes splitting, but sometimes growing one into each other. Nevertheless, of all 15-16' width of it, only outer 4 to 5' has viable buds in a spring, but that is enough to cover all ugly insides and create the most stately and gorgeous PG I ever saw....See MoreNow that I have the land what do I do?
Comments (4)First as creekside said you *have* to be sure of the boundaries if you don't already have them surveyed. Then as lwo said you have to determine about running power - how far off the road (how long a driveway) do you plan? Contact the electric company and see what they charge - you may want your house closer to the road than originally planned, over a certain distance you will require a transformer (and of course more digging/conduit or poles). Then once you have an idea of how long the driveway will be, you can walk with engineer to determine where best to site the house - he should be able to give you an idea of suitable sites (avoiding ledge, wetlands, etc.) though sometimes ledge can lurk where you least expect it (ask me how I know!). He'll do the perc tests to find out where best to put the septic and what design will have to be. You may also have to hire a soil scientist and a surveyor to then go out and mark wetlands and proposed foundation/septic/driveway locations to bring to planning and zoning and/or wetlands commission. Of course you have to have an idea in mind of what the foundation size and shape will be. Although our preliminary site plan showed we were more than required distance from stream, our engineer *and* soil scientist as well as DH had to attend wetlands commission meeting (at $100/hr each, they got to us at the end of the meeting). Be prepared to pay $$$ and build in plenty of time for delays. B/c the commission only meets once per month and we had an ice storm the day in Feb they planned to meet, we did not get reviewed until March meeting, and we could not start clearing land until we got their approval so we lost a month. Once we had the site cleared and started digging we hit ledge and had to move the house (took some doing, since we couldn't change approved septic site w/o losing even more time), clear more, dig and pray the new location would allow us to have full 9ft basement. Since we were doing modular builder said we couldn't change house/garage plans w/o impacting schedule, we had to keep all windows, garage orientation the same, so tried to shift foundation SW without changing passive solar design/orientation. This from 100 miles away, looking at site plan while on the phone with excavator! So we ended up with 3ft door walkout on gable end, 4ft change in elevation, instead of 11ft drop with walkout (bigger door) in back. At least I was GCing all the sitework myself so we could change the foundation plan and the driveway length/curve. As far as well, our driller said you never know what you're going to find until you start drilling. Be prepared for cost overruns there. Our neighbor's well produces so much he can't use it fast enough (with 2 teenage girls!), he had to put in an overflow. We took 3 tries to find decent amount of water (used other 2 wells for geothermal), then we had to hydrofracture. GT wells are 279ft each and water is over 500ft....See MoreHad to remove part of my subfloor, now I have NO idea what to do
Comments (5)I think I can if I remove the ceiling of the floor below, which I have to anyway. I am using the kerdi schluter preformed foam pan, and will then put tile on top of that. Someone told me to just screw a 2x6 into the base of the frame of both walls, then screw the plywood into that and use it as a nailing edge. Would that work?...See MoreMy Neighbour Has My Kitchen!! Should I “Borrow” It??
Comments (41)There are pros and cons to both layouts. I will say that the setup in your neighbor's is generally better, with a few tweaks. Whether the island truly fits, I can't say without dimensions. To summarize your thoughts...is the following correct? You currently have two table spaces -- a Dining Room elsewhere and a small "nook" area (the other side of the peninsula in your current Kitchen where the two stools and sliding doors are) You are talking about moving into the small "nook" space and will still have a separate Dining Room You have both a Family Room (in front of the Kitchen) and a Living Room elsewhere So, all you would be losing would be the small "nook" area, which it doesn't look like you're really using anyway...correct? What's good about your neighbor's layout... The sink and range are along the same wall so you can easily move things along the counter from one place to the next...as we age, it can become more important as picking things up, especially heavy things like pots of water, can become more difficult (arthritis, etc.). Tweak...the DW should be on the other side of the sink so it's not an obstacle between the range and sink. It looks like there is quite a bit more prep space between the sink and range What might not be good... Is the aisle b/w the island and sink wall 48"? It should be wide enough to accommodate a walker or wheelchair. Ditto between the refrigerator and the island? No one wants to think about the need for either, but you never know. I had an accident a few years ago that necessitated a knee replacement. I had to use a walker for a couple of weeks (it took that long for my muscles to "kick back in" and be able to do straight-leg raises -- apparently, the younger you are, the longer the recovery time...counter-intuitive, but my PT therapist said it's so!) It not only gave me a taste of what it may be like years down the line, but it also made me realize what does/does not work when you are disabled, even temporarily. Fortunately, my Kitchen is wide open, so I had no problems navigating it....See MoreRelated Professionals
Beach Park Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Channahon Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Deerfield Beach Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Durham Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Eureka Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Idaho Falls Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Luling Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Olney Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Omaha Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Overland Park Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Pinellas Park Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Rancho Cordova Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Tulsa Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Phillipsburg Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Plant City Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers- 8 years ago
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