Yes Laura, several are going to be planted this week before the real heat hits. The lovely thing about wrapping cuttings is, you use hard wood instead of the new, soft flowering wood. The only soft growth you have to "protect" is what is generated after the cutting roots. Since that is accomplished in the open instead of under cover, it's already hardened off, conditioned for whatever the weather throws at it. The ones to be planted definitely have sufficient roots to go in to the ground now, and should continue thriving even when the high heat hits. Ones like the illustrated Lamarque will continue being held in pots until their root systems are as well developed. The two factors you have to be concerned about when planting newly propagated plants are whether their root development is enough to support them on their own; and whether the new growth is too soft, too tender to handle direct sun, heat and any wind without frying. If the plants have been grown under cover, whether that cover is a green house, bags or plastic bottles, they may be very soft, requiring hardening off, acclimating them to the hotter, drier, brighter conditions being out in the open require. Propagating out in the open eliminates the second issue. Growing them in increasingly larger pots, in a warm, sunny spot, in good soil with consistent nutrition and preventing them from flowering, helps accomplish the first more quickly. There really is no difference between these plants and "bands", except none of these have been held for months (or longer) in pots which are too small to prevent them from continuing to mature. A nursery can't do that. They must maintain them in a size economically suitable for shipping, and which also permits them to maintain a large number of plants in a relatively smaller area. Bands permit all of that. Gallons can at least triple that room and shipping. I use gallons as I'm not raising as many plants and none of them are to be shipped anywhere. Amerique, "winter protection" where I am consists of pruning any plant mass which will act as a "sail" in the higher winds we can get with any winter storms. If we are to receive any rain, it will come in "winter". It doesn't freeze sufficiently here to damage any roses. If any roses (and most other plants) are to be transplanted, moved, "winter" is when it's best here to do it. I can't give you dates for your climate when separating them would be safest, but you should be able to safely accomplish that any time the weather isn't so hot that any root disturbance will cause them to collapse. If you still have periods of rain expected, particularly a period when you should expect it to last several days, I'd think separating them just before the rain starts and putting the pots where they will benefit from being rained on and receive primarily morning sun (if there is any) would be most suitable. Otherwise, separating them when the weather is suitable for transplanting established plants or planting bare roots would be best. I hope it helps. Kim

Ianna, I've never rooted from leaves (only from cuttings) so perhaps someone else can chime in, but there are a few suggestions you could adopt: 1) Bottom heat would be most beneficial. 2) As much ambient warmth in the room as you can - I'd suggest about 20C. The same goes with light - as much as possible. 3) As far as the on/in-soil question, I'd go with on the soil, which should be misted daily. 4) Your regular C&S soil is probably fine. 5) Rooting time is dependent on your conditions - the more warmth and light, with a little moisture, that you have will allow the leaves to root more quickly. 6) I don't know anything about supplemental lighting. I put my plants inside for the winter near some SW windows and turn them every few weeks. 7) Yes, I'd think that they were goners. 8) No need to fertilize until they're plants that are in active growth. Then you can use diluted (1/4) Miracle-Gro or some such kind.

The only way I mist is with a direct shot onto the soil right beneath the roots, not a spray that will also hit the leaf. Don't move it until (1) there's a sizable baby at the end. Like Para said, all the moisture the baby needs initially is in the mature leaf. Amazing stuff. I plucked up two just to show you (though it is pitch dark outside right now)--the one on the right only has roots and no baby, obviously: If I cut off the mom from the baby on the left and plant it, it'll be fine. I usually wait longer, until the mom is completely shriveled, but keep in mind that does not always actually happen. I've had some every so often where the mom leaf lives on until I finally cut it off the rather large baby plant because it's so out of place. :) These cuttings are never watered, and just laid on top of my mix in a window box on my patio in bright but complete shade.

If you have springtails, there is a reason for that - usually moist and organic environment. Could be the soil you use, watering too much, water standing in saucers - do not know which in your case but aim for clean and drier conditions (pick up any plant debris from pots and surroundings, empty saucers...) 1.I would pot up younglings in gritty mix and treat them as other succs. 2-3. Set on top of gritty, stem is quite short and leaves will likely sit on top of mix - I would use thin layer of gravel to keep them drier. The roots are growing, plant should survive - unless overwatered. 4. It looks like some sunburned leaves. Plant still need good light, but it was likely put in strong light suddenly and burned - not sure if the west window have too much sunlight?, usually not enough (did you buy them like that?). Sunburned leaves may fall off soon, just let them do whatever they will. You may end up with long bare stem, just decapitate, stem may also grow babies (water as any succulent). 5-6. Both nodulosas? Stems and leaves look very light. If nodulosa, decapitated stem will grow new babies. Not sure how easily leaves propagate, but cuttings will. Stumps should be watered as any succulent, they have roots.