Steve, my garlic survives -20 outside a few times every winter with no more protection than just pushing the cloves into the bed. Most of my varieties will also send up some foliage in the fall before hard frost too. Garlic in nearly all its varieties is very hardy. I had a good return of nice sized bulbs one year from a late planting of Music cloves that must have been in cold storage all winter. Planted the end of May and harvested as full sized bulbs that cured properly by the end of July and worked as seed stock the next fall, too. Well fed, well mulched and well watered they were. It is still safer to plant in the fall. I would not count on mature rounds inside, unless you have enough light, enough cooling and have figured out the daylength, else they may not even actually go dormant or bulb up at all.

I though this was answered in your previous post about direct seeding tomatoes but you can look up any variety name and get its DTM - days to maturity - for an estimate. But that #of days is from the date of transplant not from seed planting. On average it takes 6-8 weeks for a seed to reach transplant size, another 4-5 weeks to set its first fruit, and another 70-90 days for that fruit to ripen, depending on the variety. So from transplant 3-4 months, but from seed, anywhere from 4-6 months. That's why nobody direct seeds them. Plus tomatoes will only set fruit within a certain temperature and humidity range so the goal for many is to get them planted, blooming and setting fruit before the severe heat of summer comes on. Dave

I'm not sure, about a year I think. It's obviously happy. I'm not sure if it will develop buds or bloom, since there is less light. It does get additional light though since it is in the living room where i spend a lot of time. My other Hoya carnosa Rubra is trying to climb up the wall lol.

You've already gotten some great feedback from everyone in much more detail than I could provide, and I agree with the 3-5 years to mostly mature. The bigger the rose is supposed to get, the longer you need to wait for it to reach maturity, which means that climbers and big roses like my Explorers really didn't come into their own until more like 5 years. They may bloom earlier, but not rebloom well or not be as robust in general. Other factors that have already been mentioned include the amount of sun, availability of nutrients and initial maturity of the rose when planting, and I'd add a year to the usual 3 years for HTs/floris if you have poor sun, crappy soil/water or a really small band. Heirloom bands used to take an extra year over bands from places like Burlington, so I always planned for 4 years to maturity in the old Heirloom (the new gallons are more mature but also a lot more expensive from Heirloom). Bare roots tend to mature a little faster than bands, but not a lot once you get past the first year. My Explorers in part shade and crappy soil were pushing 6 years before they did much repeat blooming, but now they're mature and pretty nice. I can't emphasize enough in our colder zones the impact of surviving cane on the time to maturity for HT/flori type roses. I have some wimpy 8 year old roses that just barely survive the winter each year and they're still knee high twigs that might give me a first bloom by October if I'm lucky, and won't bloom at all if I'm unlucky even though they're as "mature" as they're going to get. The better suited a rose is for your zone, the faster it will mature. My Julia Child has always been a small rose for me and I'm happy if she can get up to 3' in a given year, so yours might not reach those exquisite sizes Diane posts even when mature. Nanadoll is out of my league for height and beauty of roses like that. There's a big difference between zone 5 and 6 in rose vigor, and for many roses a corresponding difference between 6 and 7. Cynthia