It's not a simple answer. Various components complicate things, such as arm styles, attached cushions and non-removable feet. Tilting 45 degrees so that the top of the back and the top of the kick panel are in line vertically and the base of the outside back is at the other extreme is the most direct way. You can also get one arm in and rotate left and right. There are also some sofas that are made in modules -- the deck, the back and both arms are made and upholstered separately, then assembled either in the factory, store or home. The arms either slide off or unbolt. Sometimes the deck and the back also unbolt. You might have to remove the dust cover to do this and staple a new one back on.

Is it a nylon collar? If so, take something metal and pointed, like an ice pick or a skewer, heat it over a flame and then burn a hole into the collar. Mark the area you want the hole before starting the process. With a cat collar you just need to make sure you don't make the hole too large or the latch may not hold well. Another option is to try a hole punch with a small hole size, then burn the edges to keep them from fraying.

I know this is a response to a very old post. But Chromatic, if I understand this method correctly (pix would have helped on this site!) they suggest a seam down the center of the sheet. Pretty easy peasy. However, I think that would be a little unstable. During sleep, moving around may put too much stress on that stitched seam down the middle. I still think the best option would be to alter the corners. And I would also flat fell or enclose the corner seam again. Maybe that is the perfection seam"stress" (there may be a reason the word "stress" is at the end of seam in that word!) in me, but I think it is the better and more stable route. Now, the only other way I would do that middle seam option, is this. Follow steps 1 through 4 from the "King to Queen fitted sheet" site you recommend.(Make sure to pin your middle seam with just a little "give" or ease so it is not so tight it rips during sleep.) Now, after you sew the seam, don't cut it, but rather lay the excess fabric down onto the sewing line so you have the excess fabric spread equally on both sides. Like one big pleat. Pin in place and THEN sew a topstitch line down each side of the big pleat along the edge. And you are done. This will reinforce and protect that original middle seam. NO CUTTING involved! That is what I would do. Rosie

Okay my link goes to the whole photo gallery at MA. The hood I am referring to is the 15th, it is a wall hood in copper, over a stainless range, with pans hanging up on the wall behind the range and stained cabinets to the left, and a dark red Oriental-looking rug on the floor. I would get the island version of that design. My beams are 21" apart and 7 1/4" high. Height from floor to beam bottom is 93 3/4", from floor to actual ceiling is 101". The hood will be placed lengthwise, so the length of the hood will run between two beams and the ductwork can be recessed between the beams. GreenDesigns I would usually agree with you, but somehow our ceilings look very high even though they're not. Everyone who comes in, even contractors, think we have 9' ceilings -maybe the stain or the proportion or the room sizes give that impression? So from measuring things out, the hood *seems* like it would look proportionate even though it actually may not be. But I love your idea to try it out with a box first! Johnliu, for some reason I can't get your link to work, but I'd love to see what you are referring to! Is there a Google search I can do, or would you mind reposting the link? Anna_chosak, I should have worded my response better... I'm sure the 18" hood will look perfect in your space. It's just that I think it will look weird in mine, because the hood will be 42" long and it will sit in the middle of a 15' by 24' room (sorry, I put the wrong dimensions in last night!), and for some reason, even though the ceilings are technically low, they don't look it so the 18" hood would look disproportionately short. After sleeping on it, today I am still considering what I posted last night - having it vent out the side instead of the top, so I can mount the hood directly to the ceiling - but will also email MA and ask how much it would be to have them make the hood only 24" tall, instead of 30". That would put it about 34" from the range top when mounted beneath the beams. What do you think of those ideas? Should I do something else?