Our entire residental block has drainage issues but happily, wonderful and cooperative neighbours as well. Together we are working on solutions. So far, we all have been very satisfied with the results. I have installed two french drains on my property. The one in front runs along the property line, collecting the run-off from two houses as well as channeling water from a low spot in the middle of both our yards. In back, water is collected from another downspout and from the very busy sump pump. On my property there, it runs under the grass and garden. When it reaches the fence, it diverts to the side street, picking up the run-off from connections to three other houses along the way. In the middle of the block, where there is huge, water collecting wrinkle in the terrain, causing water problems for another 6 neighbours, we are in the process of creating yet more french drains and trenches. Instead of diverting the run-off to the street - an impossibility in any case - the natural dip at the junction of those properties will purposely be deepened and widened, creating an intentional "wetlands". The excavated dirt already has a new home as a berm for yet someone else's landscape. We hired a contractor friend with a bobcat and loader who quickly dug the trenches and took care of the excavated dirt. Considering the time involved and the volume of dirt to be moved, the modest cost was well worth the price. That cost was shared equally by all of us. We bought our own sleeved weeping tile and gravel individually because of the different lengths needed. As well, we each decided on how to finish the visible part of the drains on our own properties. I've linked pictures of my own drains. You can tell from the parched grass that they are not being used right now, lol But, having said all that, I don't know how a french drain would help in this case. We used them to divert standing water in a relatively flat landscape. Your run-off water HAS a place to go with - ahem - enthusiasm. I would suggest a variety of other options including a berm at the start of the slope, terracing, imbedded large boulders, stabilizing landscape fabric, lots and lots of varied plantings. If you don't want to use an expert, there is a plethora of resources on the internet and at the library. Have fun. Here is a link that might be useful: french drains

8 feet by 40 feet? You can place wide boards across the width which would divide it into several smaller blocks that can be worked from 3 sides. Place them so that the divisions allow you to reach the middle of the section from all 3 sides The boards will disperse your weight so that walking on them will not cause as much compression. Clay isn't a bad thing actually. It holds water and nutrients quite well, but just needs a little help. This could potentially be a really great garden. If you can incorporate a lot of peat moss or coconut coir, it will improve the tilth of the soil immediately and permanently. After that, all you would need to do is keep it well mulched and you'd have some great soil that would need a lot less supplemental water. If I were in this situation I would set up some additional beds (if there's room) to take up the excess 'topsoil' so you can add plenty of peat moss. It will be hard to mix peat moss all the way down to the bottom in that main bed so I would mix in as much as I could in the top section, install some WORM TOWERS then add some composting worms as well as some nightcrawler type worms that will burrow deeply and help build up the lower levels and improve the drainage. Keep the worm tubes fed with organic matter. (Worm tube instructions at link below) I would then plant a mix of deep-rooting cover crops (comfrey, alfalfa, clover, or whatever would work for this season and start growing now in your climate) which will root deeply and add organic material to those lower levels. Cut them down just before they begin to flower, and leave it all there on top as mulch. If necessary, spread it out a bit to let it dry some first, and chop it up a bit if you feel so inclined. Keep the bed mulched at all times. By next spring I think you'd have a great, very fertile bed ready for planting. Just open up holes in the thick mulch and put your seeds or plants in the soil. Leave the openings in the mulch to let the plants grow. Along the back, plan to plant things that you can train up the fence (melons, cukes, beans, tomatoes, etc. If parts of the plant are allowed to grow out the other side, you can harvest from there. Large fruits will need support as they grow which can be done by making little hammocks from pantyhose tied to the fence. Please keep us posted on how things go! Here is a link that might be useful: Build a Worm Tower

Interesting on the shade idea and those fire ants. I can not be of any hlp with the ants but must note that I would wrap the french drain pipe in the cloth before you place the pipe in. That is wrap the pipe with the cloth to prevent dirt clogging it. You can then also use the fabric to stop weeds and such but it is best to wrap the pipe not lay the weed barrier cloth above the pipe. Mike

I had Mamey Sapote for the first time just this Autumn. Oddly, my local supermarket had a bin full of them. I knew what it was because I bought this book -- eventually, I'd like to be one of your neighbors, Maria, if you're down in Redland -- but hadn't yet tasted one. The texture was somewhat like avocado, but water-based rather than oil-based, and slightly stringy. The flesh tasted like a mix of cold steamed sweet potato, muskmelon, and had a dark cherry finish with a bit of tannin. They're ready to pick when scratching the skin reveals colored flesh -- depending on variety, since they vary with regards to depth of color -- and are ready to eat a few days later, when soft enough to allow some give when pressed. I cut them in half, popped out the one large seed, and ate it by scooping the flesh from the skin with a spoon. :-) ~Christopher