We had Johnson Hardwood"s Luxury Plank Vinyl flooring, Public House- whiskey sour installed by the builder after we looked at the product at a flooring center recommended by Johnson. We have lived in the house for exactly 2 years, and for the first year the flooring cleaned up nicely. In the beginning, I had contacted the "technical rep" for Johnson, and he recommended Rejuvenate LVF cleaner as it is low Ph. That is the only product I have used on the floor since we moved in. We loved the floor so much that we paid $7000 to have it installed in our lanai last year. In the past several months, the floor in the main house is blotchy or spotty throughout, and it looks like certain areas have a film. We clean up water and spots immediately, but the spots continue to show when the floor is wet or dry. So far the lanai doesn't have the same problem, but it's only a year old now. I did report these issues to the technical rep at Johnson, and he wants we to contact the maker of Rejuvenate as that product is likely the cause of the spotting all over the floor. He also wants me to find out who the contractor bought the flooring from when the house was built, and I am to provide the name and contact info for the flooring contractor who installed the floor in the lanai last year. I have tried to take photos with my iphone, but only a few of the spots will show up. I clean this floor at least twice weekly with the Rejuvenate and I vacuum it daily as everything shows up on the dark floor. I know I am going to get the run around from the Johnson rep. I am so upset that we paid top dollar for what we thought was a quality flooring only to have it look like cheap vinyl flooring. I wish we had never heard of Luxury Vinyl Plank flooring.

OK...so the question is: Can I do it? Yes of course you can. I think the FULL question is: Can I do it without looking BAD? Yes. You can. It is fully acceptable to have different flooring options/colours/presentations on different levels. A basement floor is often quite different to the upper/living/public levels. There is no problem with a wood-look product (faux) in the basement (regardless whether it be laminate or vinyl planks) when real wood is in the living areas. The separation of the stairs is what allows you to do this. The DOOR allows even greater freedom. So long as the PUBLIC space is continuous (visually) then you can do whatever you want in the basement.

@V M sorry, just seeing your post above. We are just now finally breaking ground on our home so I don't have pics of the flooring to show you from my house. I will come back and post when I do but that will be some months from now. But we are paying, I think, 15K for our Multi-Length Rigid Core SPC floors in color Sandhill. Our house will be 2975 sf and this floor covering will be throughout the home, except in 3 of the full baths and the utility room. I'm not exactly sure how many square feet that leaves but hopefully you can do some rough math. Everything goes through my builder so I don't have an exact price per square foot to provide you. I also am not sure if this includes labor to install.

At this point, the job ($4/sf for a BIG job with LOTS of things to do = awesome price) is finished. The cure is going to be worse than the disease. I'm a big fan of "Wait until you have a problem before throwing money/time at it." It is the cheapest solution I know of (I'm a pragmatist...who is both cheap AND lazy ;-P). My advice is this: leave it alone. Keep 10% 'extra' of the flooring product (roughly 75sf or to the nearest box). This will offer you the peace of mind and the material security you will need to feel secure. You will keep it in the back of your mind. You will know that IF something goes wrong you have ALL THE PRODUCT needed to repair/replace the damaged planks. With a laminate floor I wouldn't worry to much about a bit of bounce. People have 'put up with' bouncing laminate floors for 20 years (the SAME laminate they installed 20 years prior). That tells me the click system is fine. Your floor is a rigid vinyl (8mm thick = nice product). The rigidity of the core will help keep everything stable. The only weak point (as in everything in life) is the link (click edge) between one plank and another. This is the one and only place things *might go wrong. Now to be blunt, a rigid vinyl floor like yours can be taken apart and, "in theory", be clicked back together - BUT I don't like that idea. I really don't. We know the click-edge is delicate. We know that. We've seen them brake by grazing the ground before being installed. A vinyl floor that has been disassembled has a STRONG likelihood of DAMAGED edges. If the edge is damaged then there is almost no way you will get them back together. That means you will have to assume 25% damage should you choose to 'unzip' this floor to the point where it bounces. That leaves you with 75% intact flooring with 25% garbage planks (which must be replaced). As soon as you try to fix the subfloor underneath (by removing the flooring) you will have lost the 'intact' floor. You are guaranteed to spend MORE time, MORE money and MORE materials to deal with this. Compare that to 'leave it alone'. Right now you have 100% intact flooring. Every day you wake up to 100% intact floor is another day with a perfectly functional floor. Every day you have 100% intact floor is another day you have SAVED time, money and materials. Simply leave this floor alone until something MAKES you repair it. Keep your 5%-10% extra on hand for future repairs (and there will be future repairs). Use them if and when you need them.