Since the insecticide would be translocated to all parts of the plant logic says that it would also be in the pollen and nectar. I am aware of one study, done in Europe, that did look at what affect systemic insecticides would have on bees and traces of the insecticide used were found in the honey in the hives. Whether this would have an adverse affect on the bees or not is not noted.

(such as the product by Dyna-Gro - it's important that it's 'cold-pressed' because other extraction methods [steam and solvents] destroy the active ingredient - azadirachtin) is hard to beat as an organic insecticide/anti-feedant. Though it has little in the way of immediate knock-down, it is very efficient at eliminating pests with rasping/sucking mouth parts, and controlling their future generations via chemosterilization (not to be confused with inorganic chemical sterilization). If you consider isopropyl alcohol compatible with your organic program, you can incorporate it for its knock-down effect. To 1 pint of hot water, add 1 tsp cold-pressed neem oil and a few drops of Murphy's Oil Soap. Shake well and add 1 pint of rubbing alcohol. If you don't use the alcohol, add a pint of room temp water in its stead. Spritz/spray until leaf surfaces are wet, bottom and top, being sure to also hit leaf axils. Al Something I'd written a while ago: Neem Extract as an Insecticidecolor>size> In India mainly, but also Asia and Africa, grows a tree all plant enthusiasts should be aware of, Azadirachta indica, commonly known as the "neem" tree, and a relative of mahogany. Extracts from the trees seeds contain azadirachtin, a relatively safe and effective naturally occurring organic insecticide. Let me preface the comments following, by reminding you that the terms "naturally occurring and/or organic" do not universally mean safe. Pyrethrums, rotenone, and even the very dangerous nicotine are all organic insecticides that should be handled with great caution. Neem extracts, on the other hand are very safely used in a wide variety of cosmetics, as a topical treatment for minor wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage containers, bins, and bags, and a whole host of other applications. Neem is very safe for use around birds & mammals. I'll limit this discussion to its use as an insecticide. Neem works in many ways. It is effective both in topical and a systemic applications. It is an anti-feedant, an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer. Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the hormone ecdysone, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well, disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect "skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread geographically Tests have shown that azadirachtin is effective in some cases at concentrations as low as 1 ppm, but some producers use alcohol in the extraction of neem oil from plant parts which causes the azadirachtin to be removed from the oil. Some products touting neem oil as an ingredient actually have no measurable amounts of azadiractin. I use what is referred to either as cold pressed or virgin neem oil. You may also occasionally find it referred to as "raw" neem or "crude" neem oil. Neem oil is most often used in an aqueous (water) suspension as a foliar spray or soil drench. Commonly, it is diluted to about a .5 to 2% solution, but the suggested ratio for use in container plant culture is 1 tsp. per quart of warm water. A drop or two of dish soap (castile or olive oil soap is best) helps keep the oil emulsified. The mixture is then applied as a mist to all leaf and bark surfaces and as a soil drench to the tree's root system. It should not be applied as a foliar spray on hot days or in bright sun as leaf burn may occur. Remember to agitate the container frequently as you apply and do not mix anymore than you will use in one day. Neem breaks down rapidly in water and/ or sunlight. Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit; however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it appears that insects build no Âresistance to azadiractin. I have been using neem oil for five years as both a preventative and fixative and have had no insect problems on my container plants. Applications of cold-pressed neem oil are most effective for use on mites, whitefly, aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles, mealy bugs, leaf miners, g-moth, and others. It seems to be fairly specific in attacking insects with piercing or rasping mouth parts. Since these are the pests that feed on plant tissues, they are our main target species. Unless beneficial like spiders, lady beetles, certain wasps, etc., come in direct contact with spray, it does little to diminish their numbers. Neem oil does have an odor that might be described as similar to that of an old onion, so you may wish to test it first, if you intend to use it indoors. I've found the odor dissipates in a day or two. As always, read and follow label instructions carefully. Neem oil can be purchased from many net or local sources. My favorite brand is Dyna-Gro, pure, cold-pressed neem oil. If you have trouble locating a source, you can contact me via the forum or directly. Al

Unless you know something the world has not been told about Aspartame, then it should be organic. Or it could be a material like urea which chemically mimics natural urea but is derived from natural gas. Aspartame is a sweet tasting protein and is digested like one. There could be any of a number of reasons why ants might die after taking to their colonies. Here are some: 1. Aspartame is directly poisonous to the ants 2. Aspartame promotes a microbe that directly causes a disease in ants. 3. Aspartame attracts another critter that eats the ants. 4. Aspartame "infects" or otherwise degrades the stored food supply (that the ants have in their colony) with something that is distasteful or deadly to the ants. 5. Aspartame attracts a disease microbe which infects the ants and kills them. 6. Aspartame attracts a critter which eats the ants' food supply. All these things happen in the soil. Calling it a neurotoxin is probably premature. The other ideas presented are plausible, if, in fact, ants do die after carrying the material away.

Well I'm no authority, to say the least, on pest problems in Dubai, but as a general rule unless they are doing damage or unless there is a severe infestation then there is no need to do anything. Most "bugs" in the garden pose no threat but unnecessary spraying of chemicals, no matter the type, does. So seeing some bug doesn't automatically mean you need to drag out the pesticide. You learned that with the leaf miners. :) It is impossible to tell from the pics what it is. it may be a black winged aphid but it could also be 100 other types of small flies or gnats attracted to the moisture. I wouldn't worry abut it but if you want to spray something then first make sure that pesticide lists it is effective for the pest and then avoid spraying the fruit directly as much as possible. Dave