Hi Mini, I live in a part of California with a climate similar to yours at this time of year--low humidity, day to night temp range (indoors at the window) of 60 to 85. My Phals are in an ESE exposure, and screened from most of their direct morning sun by a semisheer curtain. They get no direct afternoon sun. They have had winter-spring conditions like these for three years and seem to "like" them just fine, so I doubt that your conditions are the direct problem. You have had the plant long enough for it to have made the adjustment from store to its new home. I'm guessing that John (aerides), in his first post above, is correct and the difficulty has to do with the watering of your plant. Knowing when to water is probably the trickiest part of learning to care for a Phal. If one waters too soon, the plant stays wet too long and is subject to rot. If one waters too late (i.e. after the media dries out) the plant selectively economizes, reducing water to some other of its parts, resulting in a desiccated leaf, wilting flowers, or blasted buds. Being at an open window can accelerate the drying of your plant. Since sunlight, temp, and humidity fluctuate, watering once a week will not always be enough, and sometimes it will be too much. The good news is that you can check. If you gently work your finger down about two inches or so into the media and it feels damp, then your Phal does not need water. If it feels barely moist, then it IS time to water. You do not want it to dry out completely, because (as John also pointed out) the flowers or buds will be the first parts to suffer. Some growers can tell if their Phals need water by lifting the pots: if they are light, they need water. But this takes a sensitive touch and a bit of experience to learn. Others use a rounded off skewer buried 2-3 inches into the media. They pull it out, touch the tip to their lip or cheek, and if it is cool or damp they don't water. Both of these are a little too subtle for me, so I use the finger method. This post may be a little too late for the saving of your blooms, but watering technique is something that you will need to keep your Phal healthy after blooming, as well. I hope it will help, and that your next blooms will give you their full complement of three or more months of joy. Sweetcicely

That is one great video indeed, MsGF! When I started reading the original post, I thought of this one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTljaIVseTc) - but I like your link even more. I have to constantly keep my hoyas away from things, including from growing straight into fluorescent light fixtures, which burn them on contact. What a bunch of grabby little things they are! I can see how this behavior can be called creepy, but I think of it as very smart, from evolutionary perspective. Plants that hold on to something tight have a much better chance of surviving and breeding, which of course is what evolution is all about.

And, from a Strib Fixit column in 2006: Q: My daughter thinks I need a tetanus shot because I spend a lot of time gardening. I can't remember the last time I had one. But I'm not likely to step on a rusty nail in my yard. Is it really necessary to have a tetanus shot to garden? A: Yes. It's actually a myth that tetanus comes from stepping on rusty nails. Tetanus is a bacterium found in soil and manure. Because gardeners often scrape or scratch themselves while working, the bacteria can easily enter. They don't need a puncture wound. Tetanus, also known as lockjaw, is an acute infectious disease of the nervous system characterized by spasms and painful convulsions. The toxin secreted by tetanus bacteria is extremely potent. The disease is hard to diagnose; symptoms can appear three days to three weeks after exposure. And it can be deadly. About 20 percent of cases are fatal. The tetanus vaccine can prevent infection. Check with your doctor. You need booster shots every 10 years to be protected. For more information, go to www.nfid.org and search for "tetanus."

I keep mine constantly moist( still use a moisture meter) and prob water it once a week when it is inside. Outside in summer it has to be watered twice with all the air flow and heat. I re-potted mine in a new chunky mix which is seems to like. Over time the old soil can compact and lead to bud drop and yellow leaves due to less oxygen to the roots. Most hoya growers don't like to use a moisture meter because of false readings, but if you use a green scouring pad to polish up the metal and the tip...you can get accurate readings every time.