It looks to me that more important that the pot being a little too large, the plant was never attached to the pot. That is fairly normal when "orchid nurseries - brokers' buy blooming 3 inch blooming plants and pot them to 6 inch to sell the 6 inch potted plant and charge you more. More often than not, they do not give the plants time to establish themselves, as in waiting for the plant to put out new roots and attach to the media and pot. Dendrobium are particularly fussy about being over potted and do not like to re potted. They actually prefer to be pot bound. I would take the plant and if the media in the pot is ok, I would place it back in the pot with the oldest bulb backed to the edge of the pot and new growth centered. Securing the plant to the pot is KEY, the plant must be firmly in place and ther should be no wiggle at all. Staking it alone will not do, you need rhizome clips and two should do fine. Then let the plant dry out and water sparingly until new roots emerge. Best of luck, it seems otherwise a nice and healthy plant.

It is probably a hard-cane type and it will be easy to grow in Miami. Does not matter all that much but it is best a bit pot bound in a pot hanging so it gets air movement or tied to the eastern side of a suitable tree where it gets morning sun. Follow what Jane said and do not worry about a bit of root trimming.

Hi tee530: Yes, I will update on this thread. My 1st year with kingianum too. I would love to know how yours progress as well. If my buds turn out to be flowers, I'll post pictures [my camera cannot zoom to take clear shots of the small buds right now]. Buds are dark purple and shaped like elongated (skinny) Hershey kisses, 1/4" long. I had thought these buds might be keiki's because the new pseudobulb growths all started out as somewhat purplish spurs from the base of the plant - except much larger. I see you're in MA too. My kingianum came indoors Nov 1. It was a wet autumn here as you know. While outside all October, I left all the watering work to rain. Now they're indoors in a "cool" windowsill (~50-55F). I do not mist (probably should). Instead I let the clay pot base touch distilled water and let capillary action work for 20-30 minutes or sprinkle the top of media very lightly 1x a week. It's in 100% red lava rock. I think misting is a great idea actually, if only to control for spider mites. alvin

D.nobile will usually only flower once it has a couple of back stems. Feed and water well during the summer and not at all during the winter. Here in Sydney, Australia we stop all water around 25th April (mid Autumn) and not water again until the plant has produced definite visible flower buds. If water is given during the winter it will turn flower shoots into keikis. Nobile keikis are best left until there are well developed roots on the plantlet, unless the stem is starting to wither like that shown in the pictures sent in by shavemonkey then leave it to develop, D.nobile will sometimes flower on the keikis, Cheers