The "paddle plant" Kalanchoe thyrsifolia can also take cold temps close to freezing as long as the soil is relatively dry. It is normal for the older lower leaves to dry out and die, they will be replaced by offsets that come up from the base. Also, do not touch the leaves or you will have permanent fingerprints! ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY DO NOT USE PEAT Not only is it hydrophobic as stated by Jo aka SJV, but as it breaks down the by-products are toxic and not tolerated well by slower growing plants like most succulents. Peat is only useful for succulents in very low doses (~10%) or if the soil mix is changed every year. x

When I firstl saw it, my immediate thought was that some kind of sap-sucking insect had gotten it because of the way the leaves curl inward, and the pattern of the necrotic tissue. I am NOT experienced with succulent diseases; I have only minimal experience with insect infeststions of any kind, and I don't know your species at all, but since the other posters aren't entirely confident in their diagnosis, maybe it would be a good idea to get a very close look at it for tiny insects. If it were mine, I'd use a magnifying glass because some pests are essentially invisible to the naked eye. You can also hold a white piece of paper under it and give it a sharp tap to knock pests into the paper where they're more visible. I flick plants with my index finger. Thrips come to mind, but part of the reason I thought of them was the blotching, but I didn't know that was normal for your plant. As I said, I lack sufficient experience. Still, it wouldn't hurt to check. A mixture of dish soap, water, and alcohol in a spray bottle is often enough to get rid of pests. It isn't harmful the plant (just wash it down, don't get it in the soil), so you have nothing to lose.

A few days in a shady, warm and dry spot is generally enough for a cut to form a "callous". Did you make the cut near a node? Usually rooting will occur at a node, which is where leaves and branches join the main stem. If you didn't, then remove the lowest leaves and make a new cut just below a node, then let it dry up again. If you have some rooting hormone, it would be a good idea to slightly moisten the cut end and dip it into the powder. Some fungicide can be used as a safety precaution but is not necessary. Place the cut end into a pot filled with 100% perlite or vermiculite. A pencil or stick may be needed for support. Spray the surface every few days to get it a little moist. Keep the plant away from direct sun, and keep it warm. Indoors near a window is perfect. Kalanchoe usually root quickly and easily. You may notice the leaves start to shrivel. This is normal as there are no roots to sustain turgor. When you notice the leaves firming up again, or new leaves forming, you know that new roots have formed. This may take a few months. At this point, gently remove the plant with roots and repot into you normal soil mix, and everything should be OK. x

Lauren All succulents have very similar needs: 1. good drainage (mix and pot), 2. lots of sun (some more-some less, this plant will enjoy a lot), 3. good air circulation, 4. appropriate watering when needed. You can apply this to any succulent plant... C&S soil with lots of perlite is used by many and is much better than original potting mix. I prefer much grittier mix - there is much less chance of overwatering, and worrying about rain...BTW, not sure ifyou are aw are, but it is best to get rid of all of the old soil from the root ball when repotting succulents into new mix. To keep that compact growth and nice red coloring, give it as much sunlight as possible. It will tolerate shadier spot, loosing the reddish coloring. There is also a powdery coating (farina), mostly on young leaves. This Kalanchoe luciae is a monocarpic plant - if it blooms, it will die. It usually needs to be bit 'older' to bloom (more than 1 season - usually 3 or 4), and should also offset to replace original plant.