The Annual Question...what do do with hundreds of lemons
John 9a
7 years ago
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7 years agoJohn 9a
7 years agoRelated Discussions
When do you Tear out your Annuals
Comments (15)Yes, Ken. I didn't used to clean much of anything until spring when I was in OH. There's not really a time when there's nothing going on here, and totally agree, the lack of snow makes visibly ugly spots much more, well, ugly. Rhizo, don't you compost your annuals anyway? Do you have a reliably hot pile? If not, I wouldn't think it would make much difference where they rot, in regard to killing bugs/pathogens, especially if none were in evidence on the plants when frost took them. Is there something else I should know? Rosie, I don't know if diluting is as much of an issue as getting a quantity of responses to such a "buried" question. Nothing wrong with a new discussion! Most of the leaves in this yard are some kind of oak and when mixed with grass in the mower bag, they are well decomposed in a few months. The first year I "leafed" the beds, the leaves did take longer to decompose, but the past couple years have been remarkably different, as if whatever chemical reaction or microscopic critters that decompose oak leaves are now in those areas in much higher numbers or concentrations. The increase in organic matter in the soil in general seems to help keep everything more moist, or more accurately, to take longer to dry out. I also filled a washtub with nothing but leaves/grass from the mower last fall and it's my best one this year (there are 3, all with a mix of Coleus, Persian shield, Perilla.)...See MoreJust curious - how are your annuals doing?
Comments (23)Actually, Carl, I thought some of the new guinea impatiens I bought were SunPatiens, but now that I look at your link, maybe I am wrong. I know I remember seeing the label, and remember them being more expensive, lol, and I thought I bought some. Either I did and never realized they weren't plain ol new guineas, or I just saw them and never bought them. And of course, this was the first year I threw away all my labels, telling myself they would just pile up in the bottom of my garden bucket and I would never look at them again... I do remember having some concern with the new guineas - I kept asking at the garden centers, are they more tolerant of sun than impatiens, or do they NEED more sun than impatiens? After all, most of mine are in pretty much full shade, so that little point made a big difference. Never got a clear answer, but most of them are doing well. I am really enjoying this summer! Normally I hate summer. I'm a gardener who hates the sun, hates the heat, hates the humidity, hates the bugs, and really dislikes most gardening chores, lol. The guy on the radio yesterday said "it's clear, sunny, and 87. It doesn't get any better than this!" And I said out loud in my car "Yes it does! How about clear, sunny, and 74?" But I am always mystified at all these people who love summer - give me spring or fall any day! But this year? It's still been too hot for me, but it has been relatively nice - cooler than usual, for the most part, lower humidity, and absolutely delightful evenings and nights for sleeping! Could use a little rain now though....:) Dee P.S. Edited to add, if only the flying clouds of gnats would go away, it would be almost perfect. I wonder if the trade off for great weather is dealing with the bugs? Not sure I'd take that one every year.... This post was edited by diggerdee on Mon, Aug 11, 14 at 21:58...See MoreLemon Mint Monarda - Annual, Perennial? Reseeds?
Comments (10)Lila, is that your garden? That is absolutely beautiful! I hope the seeds do sprout but if they don't I will be sure to let you know! I got them on ebay and so far everything else I got from the user has had a great germination rate and looks to be true as advertised. If you do ever want to trade, I've always wanted to try the Echinacea White Swan and Scabiosa Columbaria. I have a trade list but I don't know if any of them are suitable for your climate, I know a lot of stuff we grow here can be invasive in warmer zones. If you see anything let me know but no worries if not! Here's what I've got: Delphinium Pacific Giant, Dill Bouquet, Echinacea purpurea, Foxglove Digitalis, Bachelor Button Blue Boy, Morning Glory Heavenly Blue, Rudbeckia Hirta, King Kong Sunflower, Bells of Ireland Have a good afternoon :) Michaela...See MoreLemon Tree Losing It's Leaves... What do I do?
Comments (52)Hi all. I take care of a university biology department's collection of plants here in Connecticut and have grown citrus at home for over forty years. My take on the above issues follows. First, my Meyer lemons that get a good dose of cold before I move them inside (this year around Halloween) often drop many of their leaves and then soon break out into the same kind of flowering cycle seen on the second plant. They are more prone to dropping most of their leaves in November than any of the other citrus I care for. Next, when the tip of a branch begins to die back as in the photo, you should use a sharp pair of secateurs (sterilized in bleach solution) and prune it back to green wood just above a leaf node ASAP. Leaving the dying tip is only causing more tissue to die. Next, I think both the plant that shed all its leaves in a week and the one that consists of just a single stem are in pots that are much too large for them, especially given that they are in regular potting soil and seem to be in cool home environments without a great deal of sunlight. The single-stemmed plant would probably be quite happy in a five inch diameter pot. Over-potting makes the cooler conditions the plants encounter in the fall and indoors more likely to cause root rot which can kill a citrus tree quite quickly (I've done it to a couple of my own trees: they drowned). The test I'd do is to get them out of their pots and see if there are a decent number of roots spreading through most of the soil. If a plant that has been in a container for several months is lifted from the pot and when this is done large gobs of soil simply fall away, that's a good reason to put the plant into a smaller container. There's no good rule for this, but I'll note that most of my older citrus (15 to 30 years old) are in containers that are about 1/3 as high and 1/3 as wide as the plants. A typical example: I have a Key lime in an 11 inch wide and 10 inch tall pot (with soil to within three inches of the top and an inch of bark chips on top of that). The Key Lime has a 1 inch diameter trunk at the base and is roughly 2.5 feet wide and 2.5 feet tall. Soil considerations. At home, I long used regular brands of potting soil picked up at Home Depot (non-moisture control) with success for decades but then had a bad experience when I used a more expensive brand from a garden center that had too much ability to hold water--the bottom of two pots turned to mud. In the aftermath of that experience, I researched my options. For what it is worth, I've adopted the following mix at the greenhouse: 1/2 Al's Gritty Mix plus 1/2 ProMix BX. Al's Gritty Mix consists of three ingredients 1/3 Turface (the stuff used on baseball infields), 1/3 Grani-grit (rough granite chips for chickens to grind their food in their gizzards), and 1/3 fine bark mulch. I do not sift or sieve any of these things but simply pull out any overly large bits of wood from the bark mulch or mix if I see them. I found that Al's mix alone drained and dried out far too quickly in the greenhouse. You can obviously vary the amounts or omit one of the Al's ingredients and still have a much better mix than what you'll buy at Home Depot. A cactus might get 1/3 ProMix BX and 2/3s Al's, etc. I use the 1/2 and 1/2 mix for most succulents and cacti, including Desert Roses. Oh, and I've found that covering the soil surface with larger bark chips is a great way to reduce the fungus gnat population, but that problem is also helped by shifting to a mix that has less peat in it or by NOT repotting your plants just prior to bringing them in for the winter (the fungus gnats are particularly attracted to new potting soil with its fresh peat)....See Morecalamondindave
7 years agoJohn 9a
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
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7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoNancy(Alabama 8A)
7 years agoJohn 9a
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7 years agoNancy(Alabama 8A)
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
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7 years agoKelly(zone 10a, California) GrowingCitrus
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biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)