Great thread! Aloha, why not consider lift-up, tambor or other garage-style doors at counter level? We don't want it all the way around the room, but we're thinking of doing the same thing in two corners: 30"-deep bases, 15"-deep uppers from counter to ceiling but with the first 18" (vertical) of uppers having lift-up doors to hide appliances, canisters, etc.. (We want more than the standard 12" between counter and upper to accommodate taller items.) To fori and writersblock's concerns: The lift-ups won't have the swing-out issues of regular doors (nor the same issues of shallow drawers between base and uppers, which I often see in "inspiration" magazines, but don't understand for the same reasons fori and weritersblock mention). When the lift-up is closed, 15" of counter in front. Open, it's 30" deep of counter space!

I agree that a susan would not be efficient use of space in a straight cabinet run. Not at all. Pullouts are tricky on shelving that is approaching eye level or just above. I am not sure that they would increase visibility unless they were meshed bottomed and you could look through from the bottom. Of course they allow you to peer in at the sides when you pull them out. If they are below eye level, you could see down on the area and that would be helpful. Here is the cabinet I am reorganizing. It is above the DW and slightly to the right. Daily dishes go straight from DW to this cab. The photo was taken at eye level. 1. 2 full depth shelves 2. 2 adjustable helper shelves that are about 4 inches shallower than the cabinet. Advantages of helper shelves: Only identical items are stacked. I never have to move something off a stack to get to what is below it. Disadvantages of the helper shelves: the legs in the center get in the way of items stored beneath them. they could hold almost twice as much if they were full depth. Well Duh! solution: Cut two more shelves, finish the front edge with matching paint or iron-on edging tape, and adjust all four shelves for most efficient height (minimum waste above each stack.) Notice that only like items are stacked. In addition, with the new full depth shelves taller stacks of smaller items like the saucers can be shortened into two stacks, one in front of the other. The grabit bowls will fit in two stacks one in front of the other. Notice that seeing to the back of the cabinet is not an issue if identical items are placed in rows. Probably a whole lot more than you wanted to see here, but I will post a pic of the same items stored on four shelves instead of two shelves and two helper shelves when I get it done. I am curious to see if it will hold as much more as I think it will.

Wow! Thanks for the quick and helpful answers. So the consensus is the better deal is to buy the wall cabinets and convert them to a base cabinet by adding a toe kick? I don't mind that it will result in no drawers, as I just want that bit of extra space on top of the island and the shallow cabinets should also be quite useful! Buehl, Thanks for the reminder. I was aware of the overhang on all sides, but it could have been a costly mistake if I wasn't. Weaver2, Have you used Ikea cabinets? I looked at their cabinets briefly when shopping for something else, but didn't really look into the cost or quality they offered. SJHockeyFan, I really like those stools! Almost convinces me that I want an overhang after all. Don't think I'll change my mind, but can you tell me where you found them? Maybe I can find an excuse to put them somewhere else. Karenseb, The glass fronts sound wonderful.

I have standard, 12"-deep (13"-deep with the door) IKEA cabinets with a GE over-the-range microwave oven. Yes, the handle extends 4" beyond the cabinet front as all OTR microwaves are about 16" deep but it does not look stupid, it's standard. Plus remember that the oven must extend beyond the adjacent cabinet on the hinge side so the door does not hit the cabinet when opened. The well-rated Whirlpool WMH53521HW is available in white. Want to spend less? The GE JVM3160DFWW is $250.