I wanted to send current pictures of area. One picture shows additional bubbling that I did not see without the camera. The other shows where finish peeled off. It does not look as bad in person as it does in photo. Please excuse the spelling typo in heading _ should have been peeling :). I appreciate any help you might provide.

Cabinets are permanently installed built in obstacles. All floating floors should go around built ins, with an expansion gap, not under them. Only permanently fastened floors like wood or tile go under cabinets. The cabinets themselves need to be shimmed to the finished floor height, as that finished floor is the basis of all room measurements.

I'm a custom cabinet maker. I specialize in hardwood cabinetry. The reason why that Omega sample is so jarring is the uniform widths of each board in the panel and no consideration to the grain. Theres heartwood next to sap wood. Wood is meant to create an organic texture, warmth, and feel. I highly recomend against LAMINATE. Pre-manufactured veneered cabinetry can also be quite jarring due to the repeat patterns. I either vacuum bag a custom 6mm (1/4") hardwood "skin" onto a 12mm(1/2") sheet of ply or just use straight hardwood. Grain selection and board width can all be considered this way. Cost is about the same since theres a material/labor trade off between both types. Im still finishing off my personal kitchen, pictured below. I used painted plywood carcasses (Id normally use a walnut veneered plywood for the internals for a customer), but I went with solid walnut (with sliding dovetails in backside of the doors to prevent cupping) for all the end panels, doors, face frames, and drawer fronts. I take time to select boards for a panel so that the figuring is somewhat similar and try to transition from heart to sap. In addition to aesthetics you dont want to glue up dark heartwood next to light sap wood as the seasonal movement is much different(warps and splits). You cannot achieve this continuous grain look with any laminate or mass produced panel. For the kitchen pictured below I'd charge (including painted island cabinetry 12'x4') about 75-120k in the UK: that includes dovetail drawer boxes, poplar faceframes, sawtooth shelf supports, hardwood nosing on all shelfs, custom wood handles, blum components, etc... but would not include countertops. I'd guess price would actually be about the same in US Dollars as lumber is much cheaper stateside although I moved to UK during Covid and not sure where pricing has landed back home.

I’m in Cleveland 🤗 Never heard of them. I looked through the web site a little. One piece of information I couldn’t find is the thickness of the cabinet boxes - which is a little annoying as they have a ”quality construction” tab, and they have 3/4” shelves. So tell me that the boxes are 3/4” plywood - they would if they were. The other thing that concerned me a little is the pocket screw thing. I’m not a woodworker, but if the cabinets are held together by pocket screws I would worry that they're not going to be stable. IKEA cabinets are MDF, but the hardware that keeps them together is pretty great. These guys claim pocket screws are better. I don’t really know. Also, I couldn’t find an assembly video for the RTAs. annoying. If you want more opinions, provide more detailed information from the site here in the thread. No one else is going to go looking for it. I wish you luck with the house!