I agree on the overwatering suspicion. Buy one of those moisture meters at walmart, they look like this and are only about 4 bucks. They aren't always fool proof, but it gives you an idea of how wet or dry your soil really is down there below the surface. In my home, my peace lily usually gets watered once every 5 days on average. It really varies, I have a smaller variety peace lily compared to yours. Secondly -- fertilize healthy plants. If a plant isn't doing well, you need to get it healthy first before fertilizing it. And make sure it's a weak fertilizer, don't use too much. For repotting, you could simply lift it out of the pot, try and shake off the soil and inspect the roots. If the roots aren't white and they are brown and mushy, that's root rot. You could cut out the bad roots and try replanting in new soil. Drainage is important, so you want a pot with a hole in it and a well draining soil (if you're just using standard houseplant potting mix, you could throw some perlite in to aide in drainage). Watering -- In the future, watch your watering. You'll definitely kill plants like this if you water everyday, even every other day. All plants need to be watered when they need it, not based on a weekly or every X days schedule. A moisture meter will help with that. Finally, don't let the water go from your kitchen sink to the plant. If you water using tap water, let the water sit for at least a day to allow chlorine and anything else the plant won't like to evaporate from the water. And you want it to be room temperature or slightly warmer, not cold water that will shock the plant. I like to fill up a gallon jug of water, let it sit out without a lid for a couple days, then i just put the lid back on and leave it on my fridge. Anytime I need to water, I just use that.

Thanks guys, I just found some "tomato dust" out in the barn, a copper based product that maybe I can use until I get into town again. Not too many tears are going to be shed over losing a couple of P.O.s, I think I have 11 of them planted, and maybe I can head this off at the pass for the other varieties with some copper spray. Any recommendations on the brand? Also, should I pull these plants or leave them to die a slow natural death? I was expecting a fairly high mortality rate being my first year growing so if I pull these, I will have approx 70 tomato plants left. LOL, hopefully, knowing my weakness can become my greatest strength (in the garden, anyhow)!

Tropicbreezent- I've attempted at making a humidity tent out of cling wrap and some bendable wire, however I don't think it's doing much as the hydrometer next to it reads 34-40% (during the day, at night its 50-68%). I think this is because during the day we have the air con switch on whereas at night we switch it off. I've watered my PL once again today (I'm planning to do it every day till it settles). When I water, most of it gets drained out, so I'm thinking this watering schedule should be okay...hopefully no root rot. I've also covered the top of the pot with cling wrap (yeah I think I might ave gone a little overboard with it haha). My reasoning for doing this is because I noticed/read that the soil drys from top to bottom and with a coarse mix (5:1:1) this usually means the bark at the top drys out much faster than the mix around the roots. This means the dry bark would make it difficult to transfer oxygen to the roots (my understanding ??)....so by placing the plastic on top of the mix I'm hoping to retain the moisture this way till the next watering.

I do try to be helpful, and I try to write with the idea that more than one person will read what I say and hopefully gain more enjoyment from the growing experience because of something they learned. I enjoy nurturing plants, and look at nurturing people who also enjoy nurturing plants as a natural extension of my own growing experience. If I couldn't know I was helping, my efforts would be for naught & I'd quickly lose interest; which is why kind comments like yours are always appreciated. Thank you ..... and I enjoyed your story. ;-) In reference to the part you italicized ...... I always figured it's pretty hard to push someone up a ladder unless they were wanting to climb. ;-) So from what I gather from your linked post is this: • I should definitely repot my plant to a slightly larger container and not just pot up. It hasn't been done in at least four and a half years. You can repot or divide PLs for best outcome. If you repot, it might not need to go into another pot, but the root structure of PLs doesn't make them top candidates for root operations related to repotting. You can also simply cut the leaves off each plant and most of the roots, divide the plants and repot into the same pot they came from. They'll recover quickly & take right off. Of course, you have to look at a bare pot for a month, or just stick it in bright indirect light outdoors somewhere & ck on water needs every few days. • When repotting, I should remove all old soil and prune any large roots, upward traveling roots, and "j-hooked" roots. When I do this, where do I clip? As high as possible? This is the part that scares me the most! Honestly, IO'd divide thios plant and save the root pruning learning experience for plants that really need it as part of their care regimen. • I should find a general potting soil (I'm thinking Miracle Grow brand because, as a beginner, it is the only thing I know of that has a seemingly good reputation) and mix it with Natures Helper and Perlite. If this is correct, what should my ratio be? MGs reputation is more a result of its advertising campaign than its performance record. If I were you, I'd seek out a source for pine bark in an appropriate size. If you can find it, you can use perlite and the MG potting soil as small fractions of the soil (added to a large fraction of pine bark) to make a very good soil. A good soil can eliminate over-watering concerns and make a sound nutritional supplementation program monkey easy. See pine bark from 3 different suppliers at 3, 6, & 9 o'clock, and finished soil in the middle: When I refill the new container with the soil mix, how far up should I fill it? There are a lot of stem cuttings that are visible. That's probably not the correct terminology but I assume you understand what I mean. Should I clean this up? Should I bury these any if at all? The soil level should be .5-1" below the pot rim, minimum; and the plants should be planted so the crown is above the soil line to prevent crown rot. Lastly, if I remove all of the old soil, will I need to pack in new soil to fill the void at the thickest part of the roots? I'm sure some of these are silly questions but I truly have no idea what I'm doing and this plant means a lot to me. I want to do what's best for it. I use a wooden dowel rod, sharpened in a pencil sharpener (same tool as you can use as a tell to show when plants need water) to work soil into the voids between roots. See the 2 tools on the right. They serve the same purpose, except I favor the white one I made. Al