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Growing Tomatoes

Recommended potting mix for dwarf tomatoes

7 years ago

What potting mix is recommended for growing dwarf tomatoes in 5 gallon containers?
In the past, I have used pro-mix as well as Fafard 3B. I am now considering using Fafard 52 mix which has a high (60%) bark content in order to improve drainage. If I made the shift, would I have to water my containers very frequently?

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Comments (5)

Labradors
7 years ago
Not sure that I would use bark mix in containers (and I would assume that you'd have to water more frequently). For my money, I find that bark is great for use in the garden as it does lighten up the soil, but it needs some time to break down to provide nutrients.

I LOVE "Pro Mix for Vegetables" which is organic and available in Canada. I don't know if they have quite the same thing in the US, but regular Pro Mix doesn't have any nutrients and doesn't work very well for me, even when I remember to fertilize my plants!

Linda
jmatpatlaw thanked Labradors
digdirt2
7 years ago
Check out the 5-1-1 mix that is highly recommended over on the Container Gardening forum here.

Otherwise like Linda I prefer ProMix BX above all others. I have no issues with bark in my mixes but not 60% bark, more like 20%. But it also depends on the type of bark and the size of the chips. But yes, with any highly draining mix you will have to water more often. Especially in such small containers.

Dave
jmatpatlaw thanked digdirt2
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I generally agree about pot size, although I would put it a different way: minimum 5 gallon pot for dwarf tomatoes; 5-10 gallons for peppers; 15-20 gallons for eggplants; and 15-25 gallons for indeterminate tomatoes. But I don't think the article at that link is helpful for container plants. It refers to soil in the ground. You'd be better off following Al's advice in the link below. I plant my fruiting vegetables in 5-1-1 mix with osmocote in the mix and start fertilizing 2-4 weeks later or when they are starting to produce with Foliage Pro or Miracle Gro 24-8-16 every two weeks. Here is a link that might be useful: Fertilizing containerized plants
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This sounds promising although it won't be on the market I think until next year: Jiffy Mix natural and organic for growing tomatoes and vegetables. Contains sphagnum, composted bark, med. grade perlite, lime, natural fertilizer, and wetting agent. I can't tell the proportions. If you could skip the fertilizer it might be close to Fafard #3 which I look for in our area and can't find. Ferry-Morse, 10 qt., about $4.00.
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I spend a lot of time at the Container Forum, just happened to wander over here! I recommend you post on the Container forum and talk to Al (Tapla) and JAG (Justaguy). The first mix will definitely be frowned on, the second mix is preferable if those are your only choices...with 50% fines it may retain water longer than optimal but that depends on your particular microclimate. Ideally you should need to water every day, means the mix is well drained with good gas exchange and fresh oxygen to the roots daily, think of container gardening as a cross between hydroponics and aeroponics...if you find yourself only needing to water every 2-3 days due to moisture retention then you won't have an optimal root environment and best results possible. Good luck. Tom
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Comments (21)
No we are talking about what the plant is growing in regardless of what you call it. And since when is water extraction not considered a accurate form of nutrient testing? Can you document that claim? If that were the case then there would be no point in any one ever having a professional soil test done, no way to determine the nutrient levels of any solid materials including foods. Anyone with any experience with using MG in containers knows that the 3 month claim on the label isn't accurate and if they don't know it up front they quickly learn it. So if you think using MG potting mix adds an element of "convenience" to container gardening then you are mislead. Nutrient supplements, even those in MG, leach out of containers with any top watering and/or rain and need to be replaced regularly. That's one of the primary benefits of bottom watering and self watering containers - leass leaching. This is pretty commonly knowledge here, on Container Gardening, and on most any other gardening resource as well and documented testing is readily available. The most common recommendation when working with containers is to supplement them weekly in a diluted form. You might want to do some more reading on exactly what 5-1-1 mix is and what it isn't. I suggest the link below. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: 5-1-1 Mix in detail and FAQs
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PcolaGrower
7 years ago
I tried using the 511 mix, but never kept up with fertilizing , so I didn't get good results, next time I would add some CRF like osmocote or something. The mix did drain really well, but I didn't have any problems with it drying out to fast as long as you mulch it some. Another plus was how light the mix is compared to my other container mixes, made it easy to move my 15gal containers.
jmatpatlaw thanked PcolaGrower
fireduck
7 years ago
jm...to keep it simple...I just add 1/3 cactus mix to a quality potting mix. This increases the "drainability" of the mix. It has worked out great for me. Lots of people have their favorite "custom" mixes.
jmatpatlaw thanked fireduck
Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
7 years ago
I have made and used some version of 511 (4-2-1) with good results. The problem with 511 is that the main component ( pine bark , 70% of the mix ) is not an standard item and can vary in size and quality. And it might not be even available in most locations.

In the absence of 511 option, ProMix , Sunshine are better ones. Most , if not all, potting mixes are peat moss based with about 20% perlite.

I would avoid MG Moisture Control stuff.JMO

Sey
jmatpatlaw thanked Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7

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