I need help with gothic revival table.
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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I need help to revive
Comments (7)This thing might die if you leave it as it is so don't feel hesitant to do some work with it. If the pot is in that bad of condition you will really improve your chances of bringing this plant back by removing as much of the old soil off of the roots and cutting off any and all of the roots that are soft, mushy, smell bad or in any other way damaged. If you are going too use plain old store bought potting soil should should mix it at least half and half with an orchid potting mix so you'll end up with a very fast draining soil and will hold moisture and still allow air to reach the roots. You can increase the orchid mix up to 3/4's of the mix if you want. Firm the soil into the roots but don't tightly pack it down. When watering, give enough water so that it drains out of the bottom of the pot. The soil will save enough of it for the plant but draining will also wash out any of the mineral salts that will build up over time. Stick your finger into the soil and feel if it's damp a few days after watering. Water again when it feels dry an inch or two under the surface. Syngonium cuttings can be started in water but don't use the rooting hormone if your do that. It is for starting cuttings in a rooting mix or soil. There are guidelines for using RootBoost in the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: rootboost-rooting-hormone/overview...See MoreNeed help reviving Fiddle Leaf!
Comments (0)Hi, I am a first time houseplant owner and recently picked up a fiddle leaf tree a few days ago. It is looking pretty run down and I thought I would be able to revive it, which I’m starting to think is going to be a large undertaking. After reading some different posts I have to basic info of suggested watering, light, and kind of soil but still have questions. As you can see from the attached pictures the tree is multi stem, leaning to the side, with a lot of crispy brown patches on the leaves. I have read that this could be to root rot/ over watering or too much salt intake? I have read : http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1493078/ficus-trees-in-containers So I wanted to make sure that I’m caring for this correctly. I am thinking of flushing it out and potting up with a 3-9-6 fertilizer, since it is March I will wait till June-July to fully repot and cut the roots. I live in CA, so I mainly have had my tree inside for now (it’s only been 2 Days since purchase), but it should warm up in a few days so I can put it outside for some fresh air. 1. Should I water with tap or is it better to use filtered? 2. As far as flushing: Do I just take it outside, take it out of the pot and rinse the soil then let it dry out for a while? 3. For potting up: I have read that some people put a thin layer of pebbles at the bottom of the pot, (Or like listed- crushed up granite) or is it recommended to mix it with the fertilizer? From the pictures attached, do you think that the roots are “root bound” (which I think means coming out the top of the soil)? Does this mean it needs a bigger pot? What does root rot look like, and how would I know if it was rotted? Because of the brown crispy leaves, would it be okay to cut off a few inches of the bottom roots just as a precaution? 4. Should I cut off the browned, dead leafs? Or can I just cut off the portion that is dead on the leaf, or will that kill the whole leaf? I’ve also read about scraping the dried crispy stuff off the stems, is this bad? 5. There is 5 stems (or Trunks) that are being supported and tied together - How can I make them strong so they don’t have to be? Or will they always stay this way? Sorry for all the questions, I tried to read a bunch of posts so I wasn’t asking the same things, but just need to clarify some things and really appreciate anyones input! Since I’m new to this, I’m not clear on some gardening terms so please simplify any answers for me : ) THANK YOU! I made a link for my pictures - let me know if there is a problem seeing them. http://dyingfiddleleafplant...See MoreNeed Help Reviving Ficus
Comments (30)Sean, I'm glad you like the sick and dying plants thread, despite its morbid title. You've made a great start by digging into the details and coming up with a plan. As for whether your ficus will be okay if you don't take drastic measures right away, all I can do is repeat my experience, because last September my ficuses were still in five year old peat based potting soil and were so rootbound that it took two or three tries to get my thin dowel past the mass of roots to check the soil moisture, and their mite infestation had weakened them. Things would be different if your ficus were circling the drain, as Al puts it, but it's not even in the drain's neighborhood. Like you I wanted to repot all of my plants right away once I learned what I'd been doing wrong, but I took the advice to try to build up their energy reserves first even though I wasn't really sure it was even possible. But after doing the stuff on that list they perked up, and within a few months had grown enough roots to put out a slow but steady stream of new leaves. By the time they went outside they had already started backbudding and had maybe twice the leaf area as before in the form of big, shiny, supple leaves that might as well have come from a different plant. In short, I'm really glad I waited. Aside from giving the ficus a head start before repotting, waiting until June will give you plenty of time to decide which mix to use, find ingredients, and read up on repotting details. Meanwhile you'll spend a few minutes every time you water examining every new shoot and leaf, admiring its progress, and musing about all the different ways you can start to direct its shape when you finally get to prune it next summer. As for me, I've decided to use a variation on Al's 1:1:1 mix for my trees to make it retain more moisture without reducing aeration and drainage. Summer daytime RH in Salt Lake City is about 15% to 25%, with 90-100 degree highs, constant breezes on my porch, strong high-elevation sunlight, and pretty sparse monsoon action (not that the porch would get much rain during storms). Even the non-rootbound plants in Miracle Gro Moisture Control get bone dry within three days of a good soaking, and the plants in 5:1:1 mix desperately need water every other day, so I believe a straight 1:1:1 mix would put them in danger if I didn't check more than once a day. I've decided to use an adjusted gritty with a 4:3:2 ratio of turface, bark, and grit that Al recommends in this thread. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4195423/adjusting-gritty-mix?n=13. I don't know if Denver is dry or hot enough to need more water retention than the 1:1:1 mix, and there are other ratios that are less of a departure, but in your elevation and climate I thought you might want to know about the options as you continue to think about all this stuff. Lenore...See MoreSpanish Revival Dining room - Do I need this?
Comments (18)If you're looking at table #1 to put in dining area #2, measure, measure, measure. It looks to be quite large even if it were collapsed to a smaller dimension. You need 36-42" of space around it to pull chairs out and sit in them without hitting baseboards, walls or other furniture. If you want a rug under it, then rug should be 36-42" larger than the table so chairs don't fall off it when in use. And, you don't want the rug to run into the baseboards either. Are there only 5 chairs with it?...See MoreRelated Professionals
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