Go to Ace hardware and get some "plyobond" I hope I spelled it correct. You will also have numerous other uses for it around the garage also. It stays flexible and is gas and all the other bad stuff resistant. I doubt the backfire is caused by the coil though. Try the air adjust screw or the float may be going bad. Reed plate may need replaced also. Is the coil gapped at the proper gap? Is the flywheel key intact and not sheared a bit? Check and get the backfire under control.

Here's what I posted in you other thread about hot doors: If you've seen other posts, you've probably seen my comments on the subject of hot oven doors and sides. To summarize: the stove will be a lot hotter during the intial burn-in than later. After a wee's worth of using my NXR DRGB3001 model, the hottest spots (and they were just spots) were about 140F-145 --- that's the center of the "toe-kick" right in front of the glow-plug end of the oven baking element. There were a couple of areas of around 130F and most of it (including the oven glass) was only around 95F to 105F. My tehory is that that the burn helps the insulation set. So, no apparent fire hazards on the sides. As for the top center panel, I have to say I have not checked recently. I bought the optional center grate which stands over the center panel, As weissman says, pro-style stoves do stick out a bit further than other stoves. Your photo looks like what I see in my kitchen. Actually, I had not noticed this before. Now, as for the broiler, bear in mind that there is an infrared panel. It takes longer to get it red hot and the ignitor does stay on for a while. When I've run broiler for a long time, (as for a recent marathon pizza baking session), the broiler ignitor in my NXR it does go off and then cycles operates more like the baking burner. As for the oven door, mine does have 3/8 gap at the top and 1/4" gap down on the sides, and both sides are slightly but equally proud of the side frames by maybe 3/32" top and bottom and right and left. Sounds like one of your oven door hinges might not be seated seated quite right. See bmorpanic's thread on the oven door for some discussion of setting the correctly ourself. Or, better yet, get warranty service to fix it and watch how they do it so you can fix it yourself if you ever need to remove the oven door. The trim piece/kick panel should not be jiggling. It will have a bit of flex to it, so you can press or pull on it and get it move a bit. But it should not jiggle. As bmorepanic says, tighten the base screws. On my DRGB3001, the screws are horizontal not vertical as shown in the diagram above. They are at the bottom of the lower, coved part of the trim/cover. They are readily accessible from the front of the stove. Use a #2 Phillips driver (which is the one most people have in their tool kits and the Phillips bit they most likely have for a cordless drill). If the screws are underneath the cove (parallel to the legs) you'll need a very short driver to to get at them.

That evaporator coil is a 2 ton coil. Do not mismatch the evaporator coil and the condenser coil. Besides mismatching size, you will end up mismatching the energy efficiency rating. That coil is what's called a 10 Seer coil, and nobody makes a 10 Seer coil anymore. The lowest you can go is a 13 Seer system. I would go ahead and do everything right the first time, that way you will not have any issues with mismatching the system. Also, if you get a free estimate from someone, see if they can do a manual J load calculation on your house to make sure the unit is not undersized. A very rough way of figuring out whether you unit is big enough is taking the square footage of your house dividing that number by 600. That will be a somewhat close estimate to what size unit you need. Performing a manual J load calculation is much better because they account for the windows, doors, insulation, and position of the house. Hope this helps.

I can't let that statement stand without some comment. Schreader leak problem -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From another site I won't name: "Purchase yourself a core removal tool which will allow you to replace the schreader core without pumping down the system. This will work providing the valve has adequate clearence around it to accommodate the core removal tool. Some advice on the tool - Don,t over tightened the knurled nuts on the tool. Use only sufficient pressure so the connection doesn't leak, but don't crank down on them, the core won,t pass through the gasket. I use the J/B brand, but I"m sure there are other brands that will work equally as well. Be sure to use a touch of compressor or vacuum pump oil on the removal tool slide and sealing gaskets, helps it to last longer and seal up easier, good luck." This was in response to someone posting a question of removing the core without a pumpdown. If you can get your hose on a unit's schraeder valve you probably can get your handy dandy core remover tool on the fitting and extract the old core without releasing any refrigerant. Simply insert a new core in and use the tool as provided in the instructions and the new core screws in nicely. It has worked for me on more than one occassion. I, however, don't have thousands of units experience but I can say that I have found a few older units where the scraders are so inaccessible that even a hose low loss fitting can't be hooked up. For that you need another fitting made for those difficult to access engineers brain farts. Sorry Bob, you made it sound like removing a core without a pump down is an impossible task. That is misleading tho I don't doubt that you have had trouble accomplishing this. Because you said that was so.