IRA/CD withdrawal questions
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
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1099-r from tcf bank on an ira rollover
Comments (7)If I may intrude, I too withdrew a few matured IRA CDs in 2006 and thought it natural that because I reinvested it within one week into another bank, as an IRA (but with juicier interest hehehe) I wouldn't be sent the dreaded 1099R but I was. I've been handling my IRAs for years, and I don't recall being sent 1099s in the past for IRAs, but I think when my IRAs matured in those years, the institution would automatically give me some IRA forms which I presented to the bank opening my new rollover, hence, no 1099R...but I'm not sure. To avoid this I learned it's best to transfer from institution to institution which I'm just doing now. However, I have a problem about this particular rollover and hope someone could help? I just today arranged a rollover/transfer of my matured IRA but only now, after having mailed all the papers, I remembered one cannot make more than ONE rollover per year. Since this new CD is only for 3 months with a terrific interest, if I don't like the new rate after the 3 month maturity I won't be able to roll it over until a year from the time I opened this new IRA account and will be stuck... :( Am I correct? Or is there a way around to escape the new (probably) lower rates on maturity? One phone employee told me that on maturity it may go down about almost a whole percent (0.95%). Thanks so very much for any suggestions! Adela...See MoreShould I combine 401K's into one IRA?
Comments (20)USAA has a good rep so I don't think it should be a problem for you to leave it there for a while. SmartMoney's website I believe is free for access, but I could be wrong - I'm a WSJournal subscriber and the two are owned by the same company so there's a lot of cross-links on the websites. It isn't easy finding an good independent fiduciary advisor, but for people who need help developing a comprehensive financial plan (which is not the same as earning a high ROI on investments), I think it's essential. Most middle-class folks would find it helpful to talk to a neutral third party who can ask the hard questions and analyze your total financial picture. One thing for everyone to be aware of is that when I refer to financial planning, this is not only a legal term, it actually refers to creating a 'road map' that takes you from your current financial situation to achieving your short, medium, and long-term goals. It is aiming for a moving target, so any life-changing events - life, death, marriage, divorce, change of job - means some fine-tuning may be needed to your plan. To produce a good plan requires time spent in not only gathering all your financial info and analyzing it, but defining your goals. Some will be achievable and some will not be. Only you can define and prioritize them, and a good advisor will help if needed. You can get a financial plan, separate from investing advice, from any certified fiduciary advisor. Cheaper ones are computer 'plug in the numbers' produced, so always make sure you understand the base assumptions, and have multiple scenarios run to be sure you're covered for any contingencies/emergencies you haven't foreseen. Establish the total cost of meeting, gathering info, analyzing, and producing the plan(s) up front before signing anything. It takes time to do a financial plan, and anyone promising you it will be easy and fast isn't going to do a comprehensive job. It's an advantage for the fiduciary to be an insurance agent OR to be very familiar with insurance analysis, because many people could use advice on how to use different types of insurance to mitigate risk in various areas of their life. At a minimum you should contact at least three fiduciary advisors, obtain references, and investigate them thoroughly, before working with one. Even if all you need is a financial plan, do the research, but confine the requested references to clients who received a financial plan at least three years ago and are willing to discuss its usefulness. It is not uncommon for people to pay for a financial plan and then follow the suggested actions on their own; e.g., do their own investing, etc., without engaging the advisor to handle their portfolio. OTOH, a financial plan that goes unimplemented is just a useless piece of paper. We used to have to gently 'nag' our clients that they still hadn't completed certain checklist items on their plan, so it depends on how good you are at doing tasks that many people put off....until it's too late....See MoreRoth IRAs
Comments (5)Deemarie - The investment value of a Roth IRA will depend on how you invest it. Depending on the firm that you are with, you should have many choices as to the kinds of funds available. DH and I like our Roths because they are 1) tax free, and 2) we will never have to draw on them if we don't want to, and can leave them to our children. With a regular IRA you must begin withdrawing money at age 70 1/2. No such rule applies to Roths. I like Fidelity for Roths as it has an enormous number of funds, from money markets to many bond funds to a great array of equity funds. One click of the keyboard and you can switch to another fund at any time, with no penalties. Be sure to look for no-load funds....See Moreroth ira question
Comments (3)That depends on the financial institution with which you open the account. You need to find out if they are flexible enough in their procedures to enable you to add to your Roth account. You probably cannot add to the CD that you started with because CDs typically go for a certain period to maturity, and then they "mature," which means you need to open another one at the new prevailing interest rates. Adding to an existing CD, say, a few hundred dollars a month? I do not think so, but you can probably open a different account to enable you to do that. A question of strategy: Roth IRAs are tax free, which means that, although you pay tax on the initial contribution to the account, everything it earns after that is tax free. They are an excellent long term investment, money you just put in there and don't pay too much attention to it for a long, long time. Since your time horizon for a Roth is (or should be) at least 10 years, you can afford to take on more risk than a CD. To take advantage of the tax free feature, you need to keep the money in the Roth for a minimum time (I think at least 5 years, but I'm not sure of that). It therefore makes sense to think long term and take on more risk, say, an index fund of the whole stock market, or something like that....See More- 10 years ago
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