No thoughts on that from me. If you think organics is pricy and time consuming, then you are reading the wrong guidance. I do it because I am cheap and lazy. Oh and it works great!! You may have seen my favorite alfalfa picture but here it is again... Most people seem to think organic fertilizer costs 10x more than chemical fertilizer. The cost for Scott's fertilizer is about $2.50 per 1,000 square feet. For alfalfa pellets, at an application rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet and a cost of $12.50 per bag, that comes to $5.00 per 1,000 square feet. So the cost is really in the same ballpark either way. With chemicals many people make mistakes which kills all or parts of the lawn. You almost can't make a mistake like that with bermuda, but it happens with other lawns. People always wonder if they fertilize one day and it rains heavily the next, do they need to fertilize again?? With organic the answer is always, "no." With chemicals, who knows? You probably do, but do you want to risk overdosing? With a chemical only approach, eventually you will exhaust the microbes in the soil and you will get on what we call a see-saw. You will add more and more fertilizer trying to get results and the grass will actually perform worse. ...aaaaaannnnd then it finally greens and thickens up. That never happens with organics. If you are not willing to go all the way into an organic program, I would highly recommend at least one dose a year of at least 1/2 rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. That is the same cost as the chemical. You can apply at the same time as the chemical if you like. The reason would be to keep your soil microbes from becoming exhausted. They need food. How often they need the food and under what circumstances we don't really know, but once a year is a good start.

The temperature fluctuates from 25 degrees Celsius to 45 degrees Celsius (though the average has been around 30). For Americans, this translates to: The temperature fluctuates from 77 Fahrenheit to 113 degrees Fahrenheit (though the average has been around 86). For Americans: "truss variety" translates to "cluster tomato." ===== annabelleducasse, with 40 C. (113 F.), I think you're lucky the plants are still alive at all. But I don't have to deal with those conditions, so we need an opinion from someone who has that sort of weather. Do you know the name of the variety? That would give us some idea how large the plant wants to get. Do you know how large the pots are? And -- since I've never seen pots like that and digdirt suggested too much water, I'll just ask: are there drain holes in the pots? [The last time I asked that, the pot had no holes.] Assuming the pots turn out to be on the small side for the variety (which is usually the case here), I'd suggest adding more potting mix; tomatoes will grow roots from their stems, and don't mind more potting mix being added. In any case, to help keep the potting mix and the plants' roots cooler, and to keep the soil moisture more consistent, I'd add several centimeters of mulch atop that (mulch can be anything from straw to bark to shredded paper). I don't think it looks like an herbicide problem, but a close-up of a few of the damaged leaves (really zoomed-in!) would help. [We do see a lot of herbicide damage here; sprays can blow on the wind from great distances, broadleaf weed-killers used by the neighbor's lawn-care crew are a big problem, and certain herbicides can lurk in manure and straw for a year or more.]

I bought a 25" TruCut 10 blade mower about 4 years ago. It has been a great mower but I just recently purchased a Baroness LM 56 greens mower off ebay, it was brand new and they were asking $2000 for it and it normally goes for $8,000-10,000. So needless to say I couldn't pass it up. I haven't really been able to mow with it since it was September when I got it and the lawn was about to go into dormancy. From my experience is that if you plan on mowing your lawn at 1/2" or below, I would go with a greens mower with a groomer or brush attachment. If you do a little searching you can find used ones in good shape for what a brand new TruCut or McClane would cost. If you want to mow between 1/2"-1 1/2" a TruCut or McClane will do a great job. I have heard that McClanes aren't built as solid as a TruCut and have more issues with them. As far as maintenance goes on reel mowers, there really isn't that much you have to do. The one thing you will need to learn is how to backlap the reel to the bedknife. It is a fairly easy procedure to do, just takes some trial and error to figure it out. You also need to find a shop/golf course that will be able to grind the reel for you which should be done every year or two. As long as you are capable of doing basic maintenance it isn't too bad. I have had to replace the drive chains once on my mower but that is real easy to do. The quality of cut can't be beat from a sharp reel mower over a rotary mower. It's amazing at the difference between the two. I am sure I forgot to mention something so if you have any other questions just let me know.

I'm sure the master texas_weed already covered your questions, but Celcius was a god send for me. This is the first year I'm properly taking care of my bermuda, nothing was done since it was sodded 2 years ago. Weeds were insane, especially Dallisgrass & Poa plus my neighbors yards are covered in weeds. Celcius knocked it all out within 2 weeks after one application but I did go a little heavy on application so got a little yellowing but nothing major.. and yes you will save money, if you break it down its about 50% cheaper than any big box store product(kills more types of weeds as well). Make sure you use an surfacant of some sort, I just used a standard non-inonic, but I hear MSO has benefits but someone else would have to chime in about that...