I did pipe boot connections on my retrodrain through the wall of the pond. Didn't make my hole as large as what Horton suggested--only 1/2 the diameter of whatever size pipe. Most recent was 3" and made a 1 1/2" hole in the centre of where I wanted the pipe. The liner stretches but it takes strong fingers. Easy to do and as far as I know no leaks. Curious why aren't you looking at external pumps for your pond? They are more energy efficient, easy to winterize. I have a priming pot on both of mine even though they are below ground but had a problem with quilt batting getting wrapped around the impeller of the older pump before using a priming pot. I have a Sequel 4350GPH pump that is very quiet uses 175W. This year I plumbed this pump to my sc and the old pump (Sequence 750 4200GPH but only pumping about 1/2 of that due to bent shaft) to my skimmer. I probably don't need both pumps as also changed my waterfall out this year so is smaller. The Sequence is noisy and leaks a little on start up around the shaft. Long story short I love the external pumps. Aquaart carries good external pumps and also the bottom drain that is mentioned either here or other forums. I also like the skimmer--it collects alot of surface stuff like dust! In the fall I run my pond on the skimmer only so that I can remove my drains (have a midwater drain now which is also awesome) before the water gets too cold. Like Horton my pumps/sc are hidden under a deck. Two pummps might be an idea for your pond as you need less flow through your biofilter and more flow through your waterfall. One idea I saw here if you only use one pump and need the circulation (in your case at least 5000GPH) was to pump part of the water back into the main pond and the rest through the biofilter/stream. Aquaart has a diagram of how to do this. As for valves depends on if you have a drain on you skippy filter etc. I have a knife valve between pond and sc on the bd but on the midwater drain which also goes into sc I don''t--I use a standpipe. After skimmer and sc 2" ball valves--I know could have used knife valves there but ball valves are more reliable. My check valves are after the pump but before the ball valves to the waterfall filters. This is to keep the water from the waterfall filters coming back down through the pump and into the pond if power goes off which it does here frequently. Because I have priming pots, sc and skimmer I don't need check valve before the pump. Can't remember when you need check valve before the pump--sorry. Ball valves after the check valves to control flow to filters. I know that I could get away with running one pump now due to the changes I made in adding a midwater drain to my sc (had alot of draw down!) and waterfall changes as the valve on my Sequel pump to higher waterfall is turned down more than 1/3rd. It's just time consuming and more pipe to change it out again. I don't know if you are allowed to use ABS in the US. I use it here as fittings are available and it stands up to my climate. Also because it's black any pipework in the pond lie retro bd don't show as much. You have a fun project on your hands! It can get rather overwhelming but there are many knowledgable people on this forum who can help you. Good luck. Patti

Geraldine, The Fun and Done has a template you can use for cutting and placement/arrangement for each block. (I bought it because it was much easier than to measure all the squares.) The batting is cut about 1" smaller than the backing square and centered on the backing fabric. The strips are sewn directly to the backing and batting. Then you trim the strips down to match the batting size. You will end up with a block where the backing is 1" bigger around than the batting and front fabrics. Sew the blocks together close to the 1" seam so that the raw edges are facing up (your batting will all be next to each other, so no batting gaps). Then turn under that seam to create what looks like sashing and sew it down. You first assemble a row, then put the rows together in the same manner. The tricky part to the whole thing is starting and stopping your seams so they only show where you want them. For instance, when you are sewing down the top strips , if you sew into the 1" backing fabric, that seam will show when you put the blocks together for a row. I used a contrasting thread, so that made mine a little more difficult. I've probably not explained this very well, but I'll try to answer any questions if you have any. Robbi

You can squirrel/racoon proof a pole mounted bird feeder. Use plastic plumbing pipe of 4 inches Inside Diameter or larger. Merely lift the feeder off its pole and slip the pipe over the pole and remount the feeder. For a little extra deterrent, add an umbrella shaped guard at the top, one that made for the skinny pole. Carefully determine the length of the pipe and cut. Cut the pipe a bit long for the first try, temporarily assemble, and measure for the final cut. The pipe will be in the way for getting to the normal clamps for mounting the feeder. To fix this, fasten a pipe flange to the bottom of the feeder and screw in a short length of water pipe. Use a size that just slips inside the aluminum feeder pole. A pipe lenght of 5 inches or so will work. To mount the feeder, put the pipe inside the pole and let the feeder rest on top by its own weight. There's no need to clamp it in place unless you wish to hurricane/tornado proof the installation. Mine has stayed in place in wind gusts up to 60 mph. As an alternative, the pipe could be used in place of the aluminum pole that comes with most feeders. However, you'd have to devise a way to mount the feeder and the pipe would require a larger hole in the groud to install. The lazy way is to slip the pipe over the existing feeder pole. I have deterined by experiment that the pipe must be 4 inch or larger. Racoons can get enough grip on a 3.5 inch pipe to climb it. The pipe must be one piece with no joints. A joint ring or seam may aid the animal's grip. The pipe soon pays for itself in reduced loss of bird feed and feeder damage. The racoons will be greatly frustrated for the first few days until they resign themselves to what drop to the ground. They will, however, dig and tear up the ground under the feeder. Evetually, their visits will diminish. If the racoons have a nest nearby, they will continue to attempt to thwart any barrier between them and food or shelter. Make sure they do not have any way to gain access to a roof of your buildings. Both squirrels and racoons will enlarge any small opening they find on a roof structure to gain entry. Trim away any overhanging tree branches; Remove vines.

There are so many ways to convert this play area to include study areas! I agree with observing where family/guests naturally migrate for various purposes and maximizing the space but I also believe strongly in the power of "if you build it, they will come". Get the kids involved in the design and purpose, making sure you and your husband have a united front in the discussions so they don't think they need to take sides. Let them "name" the room, e.g. reading room, quiet room, treetop room, etc. It looks like the kids are already comfortable playing in here and being away from the hub. If you're using the dining room, it would be tougher to turn this room into a dining space. Also, this can be an opportunity to help foster a love for reading by giving them space and solitude for reading. If monitoring is a concern, maybe a video monitor? Incorporate storage along the sides so toys can be put away and aren't a distraction during study time,