I recently did a partial renovation (fall 2009) using a blend I created after analyzing the most recent NTEP trial results. My basic criteria was to get the best looking, finest bladed TTTF available. My mix was 40% Firecracker LS, 30% Faith, and 30% Cochise IV. I am very pleased with the results as the three cultivars look almost the same with regards to blade texture and color. You'll find most of the newer TTTF's color and texture to be similar, as they don't offer the variation found in KBG, but checking the NTEP results for color and texture similarities isn't a bad idea. All of the cultivars you mentioned are good ones, and score high in the NTEP trials. SSS sells good cultivars, and it just upgraded their TTTF selections. They are a bit pricey, but if you only need a pound or two of certain cultivars it's one of the few places that will sell it in such small amounts, but not the only place (I bought some of my seed from The Hogan Seed Company). For 1000 sq. ft you will only need about 8 lbs. of TTTF. Planting it now however will probably be a waste of money as the summer heat will be too much of a stress on young grass, as will fungal disease due to constant watering and fertilizing in hot/humid weather.

While it's true that rye germinates a lot faster than KBG, I think it's silly to use rye to get things going. Sure you will have a lawn earlier, but the KBG is going to germinate when it germinates regardless of the rye being present. Of course the rye will offer some erosion protection if you have slopes and lots of rain, but again, you will have a half rye half KBG lawn if you use the Lesco mix. The other mix you mentioned is a good one, all three cultivars are dark green and well suited to your location. The only thing is that Bedazzled leaf's texture is rated as medium, while the other two are fine leafed varieties, but I doubt the difference is that great. KBG lawns certainly are some of the best looking ones, but remember that comes with a certain amount of care. KBG uses a good deal of fertilizer, and is not exceptionally drought tolerant.

Thanks. Some creeping red in the mix isn't a bad idea, especially for the shadiest areas. The Vigoro I used actually did very well in the shadiest part of my front yard, probably only gets 4 morning hours max. The problem with a lot of shade mixes is that often they will incorporate rye grass, both perennial and annual. They look great for a few weeks, but then they die due to the lack of sun, and the annual dies off as expected. In my opinion the only thing that should be in dense shade mixes are fescues. Take a look at the label and see what they include in the mix. I actually don't have any pics up. I am going to do a total renovation on a 1500 sq. ft area that gets about 3 or 4 hours of morning sun. I tried to go all fine fescue this spring on it. Scraped off all the old poa annua, weeds, moss, etc. and regraded it as best I could. Planted it in April and a reseed in May, but with all the rain while it was seed, I got minimal results. Plus I decided I don't really like a total fine fescue lawn, too whispy. I am going to use some of the new poa trivialis cultivars this fall after I roundup the small amounts of fine fescue. I plan on documenting that little adventure. My front yard took a brown patch hit this summer, after I renovated about 800 square feet. I plan on posting this fall after I overseed it and renovate a few small areas to show all these KBG lovers that Tall fescue can look pretty good.

You can give it a try. I'm sure the product is as presented, which is to say, they're giving you a quality seed mixture, and it will grow. There's only one problem, but it's a big one: You can't grow turfgrass in the shade. You can't grow turfgrass in the shade. Now that we have the basics down, we can start looking at the problem right-side-up, rather than looking at the problem upside down. There are a few grasses that can tolerate partial shade, for part of the day. Those grasses tend to be fescues, and some perennial ryes. The various companies tend to mix them together and call them a 'shade' mix, knowing very well (which you now know) that the rule above will still apply. My advice would be to buy the product you mentioned, in the absolutely smallest container you can buy. Get the one pound, rather than the five pound, bag off the shelf. Then go to Home Depot, and buy a different brand of 'shady mix'. Then go to Lowes, or Meijer, and buy yet ANOTHER different brand of 'shady mix'. Maybe a fourth stop, and maybe not, to get yet another different brand of shady mix. Here's why: Brand One will have 14% Name A Tall Fescue 24% Name B Chewings Fescue 20% Name C Tall Fescue Brand Two will have 12% Name B Chewings Fescue 20% Name D Hard Fescue 23% Name E Tall Fescue Brand Three will have 15% Name C Tall Fescue 21% Name E Tall Fescue 22% Name F Chewings Fescue As you can see, there is some overlap, but now you've got six or seven or more varieties of grass that will tolerate some (but not a lot) of shade. Mix them together, thoroughly, in one of those orange paint 5 gal buckets from Home Depot, or similar dry bucket. Plant, water, and grow. Every spot there in your shade problem is a little different, as shade tends to come and go during the day, as the sun passes over. And now, every spot of that shaded area has six or seven different grasses that might grow there. You have planted them all at once. One of those varieties will like the spot better than others, and (we already know) at least half of them won't like the spot at all, and won't grow. We're hoping that something will thrive there. As to some spots, nothing will thrive. That is not your fault. You know the rule: You can't grow turfgrass in the shade. You gave it a heck of a shot, but the fact is, that spot won't support turf, as it's in the shade. So let's look at the problem right side up: let's decide whether we can thin (I prefer 'thin' to 'remove') nearby trees to create LESS shade in those problem areas. A tree service can give you advice how to thin the tree while still keeping a tree good looking, and there are some trees that just aren't worth keeping, when looking at the lot overall. You have to make those decisions. But you're looking at the problem the right way: the problem isn't you, and it isn't the grass seed. As to those areas where you prefer (for any of a lot of reasons) to keep the shade, talk to the same tree service: they can bring you a load of wood chips, which can be spread in those shady areas, and look quite nice.