Thanks, folks, for all the good clues on the red wire issue above! I have a 2009 LTX1046 and had the same symptoms with the PTO cutting off at medium speed, as well as the no-reverse cut-off. I added 6 inches of wire, soldered and taped, to both the green and red (mine was black and white, but I traced it upstream and found red) wires. To answer the question from HU-680248234 above, yessir, you were correct, that was the location of the red wire connection. Note that what you were referring to is actually a blade electrical connector. I pulled it off with needle-nosed pliers and replaced with a new one soldered onto the end of my red wire. After reinstalling, give it a squeeze with pliers to ensure the new one stays in place. Views below are from below and the top (through the battery hole).

14 years ago I bought my Deere STX 38. At the time I knew nothing of lawn tractors and I can't say today that I know very much more... I wanted a Cub Cadet as for years Cub Cadet was the offical lawn tractor of the Chicago Cubs... Yes, I know it sounds silly now. Problem was there wasn't a CC dealer anywhere near me. As it turned out, I mentioned wanting a tractor to our banker when we closed on the house. He happened to be best friends with the gentleman that owned the local Deere dealer and made a call on my behalf. As I stated, I've got the STX 38, 5-Speed, mulch kit, rear bagger and trailer delivered all for about $2k. My lot is almost an acre and I live in Chicagoland so my season is limited. I do all the regular maintenance and to date I have replaced the carb, and the PTO. My daughter thought the hood was a metal car hood so she dropped it after checking the oil and that has been replaced once as as well. After 14 years I don't feel I'm trying to justify a purchase, I know what I bought and she has been a great workhorse for me. I can see why folks fall in love with the green and yellow. I recently got the itch for a new tractor. I found this forum and several others and looked at several tractors I've never even considered before, Simplicity and Kubota. Both were amazing!! Looked at a X300 as well and was equally wowed. After all the forum lurking I've seen an underlying respect for well maintained old machines. Mine just finished the yard, got a good bath and a coat of wax. Looks like something new will not appear in my shed till this old STX just decides she's had enough. As for what's better, who knows... All companies made an Edsel once or twice, but all I can say is good maintainance and a little respect for your tractor, of any type, and most will last a long time.

simplest things first: 1) make sure you have the "RevTech" feature on the ignition sw. panel prooerly engaged. Then attempt to operate the tractor as you have described. The reason for this is your forward /reverse drive pedal is a relatively sensitive single "rocker" pedal - and you my be unwittingly momentarily tipping it toward reverse which will immediately shut down the deck. Having the RevTech feature engaged will eliminate this from happening. 2) if prob still exists, remove batt, take to qualified shop and have it Load tested. A marginal battery can sometimes cause intermittent PTO problems. 3) Beyond that, suggest getting qualified shop help. The related control circuitry is somewhat complex and is best diagnosed/repaired by qualified personnel.. mho. Good luck.

Well now, just because the PTO "stays engaged all the time" does not necessarily mean that the PTO clutch is actually "electrically energized". If the PTO clutch bearing seizes, or if the clutch plates have become stuck together, the clutch might be "engaged" mechanically. If............the clutch is really being engaged electrically in the manner you describe, you should be able to hear the clutch "snap" into engagement when you turn the key switch ON & OFF, or, by getting under the chassis and unplugging the clutch wire connector while the key is ON (engine not running off course). If you here the clutch engage as you plug and unplug the clutch wire connector or turn the key ON & Off (with PTO switch OFF) then someone might have tampered with the wiring at some time in the past. But if you DO NOT hear any click of engagement, then the clutch may be locked mechanically due to a defect as I mentioned above. To check for the clutch being locked mechanically, try to turn the clutch by hand with the engine OFF. If you are unable to turn the clutch in this fashion, the clutch might be locked mechanically. Top confirm if the clutch is locked mechanically, unplug the clutch wire connector and try starting the engine (but not while you are under there). If the blades are turning with the engine, the clutch is locked mechanically. Some clutches have a replaceable bearing while others do not. The presence of a snap ring next to the bearing indicates a replaceable bearing. If the bearing is "staked in place", non replaceable. This machine sounds as if it is not your personal machine ("This is a mower we use at my son's ball field."), so the possibility someone has surreptitiously monkeyed with wiring could be very valid. If you want to proceed with some testing, please create your own new thread on this issue. I think this thread has been hijacked enough. A new thread will keep everybody separated.