Water uptake and therefore nutrient uptake is energy driven, i.e. it takes energy to absorb water and nutrients, and the roots need oxygen to turn the carbs the plant makes (its food) into energy - just like you do. When your plants wilt while the soil is still damp and the problem persists more than a day or 2, you can be almost 100% certain it's a root problem - probably related to excess water retention and the dearth of oxygen that comes along with it. Roots are opportunists - they don't/can't "go looking" for water, air, and nutrients, they simply grow where conditions are favorable ...... and don't grow where they aren't. In your case, the roots are probably growing deeper into the pot when the water supply is at its lowest, then dying back again when you water. The cycle of death and regeneration of roots not only impairs root function, it's very expensive in terms of energy outlay as well. What it takes to regenerate roots killed by a lack of air might have been spent on things more productive - like an increase in plant mass, blooms, fruit ...... Your soil choice has a very significant impact on how easy/difficult success is going to be, and on how wide the margin for grower error is. My take on what constitutes a good soil, at a minimum, is one you can water to beyond the point of saturation, i.e. until at least 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain, carrying accumulating salts with it, this, without the grower having to worry about root rot or impaired root function. In most cases, the inability to water correctly also prevents you from being able to institute a nutritional supplementation plan that works well because nutrient ratios quickly become skewed if you can't hit the 'reset button' by flushing the soil regularly. Dennis is right about tight little root balls, too. If I get sets that have congested roots, I rip the bottom half of the roots off the plant and use as nylon pick to tease the remaining roots apart before the set gets planted. I also remove the lower leaves of the sets and plant very deep if in a pot, and deep and at about a 30* angle if they get planted in the ground. Often, roots allowed to remain in a tight little wad end up staying in a tight little wad with the plant suffering for it, and that's something you want to avoid. Roughing up the roots actually sends chemical messengers to the rest of the plant, telling it it needs to direct energy to the root mass. Plus, the closer roots are trimmed to the stem, the more juvenile and vigorous they are (look up 'ontogenetic age'), so make sure the roots are going to be able to easily colonize your soil mass by correcting congestion before planting and using an appropriate soil. Al

Try unplugging and replugging in the connector for it a couple of times. Also check the end of the connector where is plugs into the ice maker. Are there actually ice cubes in the ice maker itself, (IE, not the tray)? If so, try removing the ice, let it refill and see if it drops the ice. The ice maker in my Jenn-air fridge died after about 5 years. It uses a heater to heat the cubes slightly, just before it drops the cubes, if the heater is burned out, (mine was), it can't drop the cubes as the motor that runs the gizmo that actually removes the cubes is not strong enough to remove them unless they are "slightly softened" by that heater. I just replaced the whole ice maker, it was about $135 on the Jenn-air website, also I did see some on Ebay for about $90, but decided best to spend the extra money to be sure I got the correct one and a good one. Good luck with yours! Gary

Grand Mall Seizure to be exact! They do not Die from them and the are med's that will help control them. You need to go to a vet to get them. He will need to know how often they happen and how bad they are. Not easy to find the cause. But there might be a trigger that brings them on. What happens just before a Seizure? Keep a record of just before it happens. This might help pinpoint the cause! Say calm if you can and don't grab the dog they can hurt you and not mean to. Hope this helps! Vet Tech Gayla

Well, first off, it's an Adenium, like Michael said. It's a member of the Apocynaceae family, like Plumeria and Oleander/Nerium. Water is probably not the problem. The branches probably were damaged by the cold. If it was exposed to freezing temperatures for an extended time, that might be the problem. See how your leaves are drooping, but still green? Plants don't do that when they get dehydrated. They suck water and nutrients out of the leaf, leaving it yellow and withered before it drops off. That tells me it's probably a reaction to the cold exposure. Check the caudex (the swollen trunk at the base of the plant). If it is still firm, it probably isn't too damaged. I would also unpot it and check the swollen roots beneath the soil. If they don't show signs of rot, then you're probably safe, although it wouldn't hurt to apply some anti-fungal. If isn't firm, you can look up a course of action. Some people will cut the dead parts out, it's a pretty drastic operation and I'm not an expert on that, since I've never had to deal with it. Luckily, if it does survive, adeniums are absurdly hardy. They don't like cold or rot, but they will tolerate unbelievable amounts of physical mutilation. You'll probably loose the branches from where the withering is and above. Cut them off if they don't recover and you notice the withering spreading downwards. That will let the adenium form a callus. Careful, the sap is poisonous, like plumeria sap. Don't sweat the branches; adeniums usually get pruned down to about that level when they get as leggy as yours. Be careful with the watering, it might stay dormant all winter, and you shouldn't let it go completely without water, but you don't want it to rot either. Maybe give it a little water once or twice a month, it really depends on the potting medium.