What kind of citrus are they? You will need to heat the garage. How warm depends on the type of citrus.

Meyer lemon, Owari satsuma mandarin orange, Persian lime and a Moro blood orange. Last year I kept the first two in the basement, the lemon had 11 small lemons on it and within 3 weeks they all fell off. Big disappointment. I just bought the last two this year. There was just a very small window in the basement and I used CFL lights. I don't think this was the best set up. This year my husband had a 4'x 4' window put in the garage. There is a gas wall mount heater out there if that is safe to use on these trees and I purchased a 4' 8 lamp t5 grow light for out there. This is my new hobby and I would really like it to be successful. Thank you for your help. Cathy

Here is the basics of overwinter citrus. It all depends on what you want the trees to do. They aren't deciduous but we can slow them way down or keep them active. It's all a dependent on warmth and light to avoid problems. And its warmth at the roots we are most concerned about. If you can keep the roots zone above 55f you need to try and provide a lot of light. If you can't you need to provide some light but not a lot. Sounds like you will have a good amount of light so you need to keep them warm. Get a probe thermometer to keep an eye on the soil temp. Lifting them off the concrete floor will help retain heat.

Most varieties get damage at and below 32f. I would do whatever it takes to keep them above 55F to keep them most happy. That's what I do in my greenhouse and mine never have leaf drop or any other issues. Not exactly the same conditions yours will be in but the that temp seems to be the best

Mike

Thank you Mike, I do have a second probe thermometer for cooking that I never used because I have another one I just bought it for a spare , will that work? I also have big rubber mats to put on the cement floor. If I have to use a humidifer could that possible break the light bulbs if they get moisture? (I hope not). Could you be so kind as to tell me very specifically how to transition them in for the winter? I really appreciate your help and I would like to do it right this winter. Cathy

That thermometer will be fine. I use a cooking one also. Just don't let the light get wet and it will be fine. 2-3 weeks prior to moving them in you'll want to move them to some shade then gradually into full shade about a week before coming in. Reverse in spring.

Thank you very much, you have been a great help. Cathy

If I keep the trees active for the winter, do I fertilize them in the winter or not? Thank you, Cathy

I think how much you fertilize depends on how much light and heat you provide and how much the trees are growing. What you want to avoid is weak growth. If you see too much of that, cut back on fertilize and even lower the temperature as much as you can to slow them down a bit. I am no expert, but what I have learned from here.

Could you please explain to me what a citrus tree flush is? Thank you, Cathy

Fertilizing also depends on what kind of 'mix' you use.A heavy compacted or dense mix will only cause issues as the salt deposits build up verses an open and porous mix lets then drain freely past the root system not harming them at all.

Many like to fertilize all winter, but not me...I hate the new growth/flush, that comes out from being fertilized that is very susceptible to pest issues..I'd rather go without pests and deal with slow growth or none at all.I llike to keep the hardened off leaves all winter...That is why I keep my plants exposed to the lowest temps possible without freezing them on my porch....I get no leaf drop or bugs)

Citrus Tree flush, the kind I don't like? Meaning a ton of new winter or fall growth due to fertilizer not produced from great sunlight conditions.. ..Many try to avoid this type of flush of new leaves towards the beginning of fall and in the heart of winter for good reason..

Thank you very much, Mike

Laura,

"What you want to avoid is weak growth. If you see too much of that.."

How can one tell if it is weak growth?

Hey Fig.

What she meant was growth that is sown from inside, under lights, grown from a lack of light, too much heat not enough light, forced by fertilizer at a less than optimal time of the year or under less than desired conditions.....For us northerners, anything after fall until spring..That kind of growth is 'weaker' per say than the optimal growth you get from spring untill fall...

Thanks Mike...yeah Figs, you won't have to worry about that in Hawaii! Before I was as informed as I am now, I fertilized too much during winter. The trees (in that case my Meyer lemon) would grow, but they were thin, weak branches with light leaves. I would rather it not grow than grow like that.

Laura, I see : )

If I would have seen those thin, weak branches with light leaves that you mention, I would not have known the difference between said weak growth and simply "new, baby" growth. I'm earning everyday!!

Mike, wow, great explanation, thanks. This citrus growing really is a science!

Laura, if they were my trees, I would cut back just as you said..You don't have too since, you have them in a great mix, but if they were mine, I would stop all together and feel it out..You will get to know your trees and their needs depending on your light source, temps, and storage which is different for every one...Of course if your conditions for very healthy sturdy good growth is limited, I would stop all together...If you lived in a climate where there is more sunshine for longer periods than I, then that would dictate when to pull back or continue..Does that make sense?

I have fiends that live in California, that must bring trees in winter, but they continue to fertilizer very lightly..

I have friends that grow theirs in a very big greenhouse will all day sun, and they continue to fertilize very lightly..

But, they all have something in common, pests, especially spider mites and scale...That is why I stop no matter what I am told to do, and it has prevented a host of problems for me)

Have you ever thought of using Pro-TeKt with your Foliage Pro fertilizer solution? This product also helps your leaves to become bug and drought resistant while building up the cell walls....It,

• Enhances growth for stronger, hardier plants
• Builds stronger plant cell walls
• Increases heat, drought and cold tolerance
• Increases chlorophyll content for more photosynthesis
• Provides supplemental potassium and silicon

Figs, if I lived in Hawaii, I would fertilize all year long in a very good mix. It would not even be a concern at all...You will have them outside all year and bugs not be an issue for me, that's for sure. Neither would spindly or weaker growth since your weather and sunlight is so much brighter and warmer than ours..How many hours of sunlight do you get even in winter? 12 or so?

Mike, since we don't observe daylight savings time (surely that's relevant somehow) and we are closer to equator, we get about 11 hrs in the winter and between 12-13 throughout summer. I'm sure that because of my climate I have some great growing opportunities, but because I'm SSOO painfully new to citrus, I'm struggling to even get my tree in the ground without having to ask for advice! : )

Figs, you got this!! Your tree will be great! Mike, I ordered that stuff. I'll start using it. Do you feed it along with FP?

Figs, you will be a pro much QUICKER than you think..And to think all of us had a beginning and did not have a clue, like me...It's much harder to care for citrus in our climate as compared to yours, so already you a great head start,,,,Something crazy..But even in a the best climate possible, it can still be a challenge to care for citrus unless one know's and meets their needs....))

Laura....Great work...No wasted time with you..I love that about you))) Yes, you use it along with your fertilizer......And, get this, you can use it as emulsifier for when using oils for pests such as Neem Oil..Works fantastic and kills lots of bugs, including scale your nemesis!!

Hello Mike is there a certain time of year that you use protekt? Do you know anything about Dutch Master Liquid Light that you can tell me. It says that you can use it under a grow light twice a week through the growing season up until the fourth week of flowering but I don't know what they mean by growing season in the winter. Can you tell me what that means? Thank you much. Cathy