No I haven't, you mean just changing the soil that it's in? How would I go about doing that without damaging it and/or the roots further, and can you explain why that might help? Thanks!

What do you mean by Water: 5 gallons of RO water that is around 300 PPM before I ad nutes ?RO water ppm is usually well under 10 ppm. If you are using such dilute nutrients and if by: weak 12.5 ml of each nutrient and then three weeks later which was also very weak, you mean you are using about two teaspoons of Grow, Bloom and Micro (total 6 teaspoons) as the total nutrient in your 5 gallon solution, then your plants are nutrient starving and the older leave might be dying as the plants send certain limiting nutrients from the old growth to the young ones. At this point, I would do something like: Grow: 12.5 ml *per gallon* (63 ml = 5 gal) Micro: 6.25 ml *per gallon* (32 ml = 5 gal) No way to get around feeding your kids if you want them to grow big strong and nutritious, but two weeks ought to be fine and three weeks if you get lazy. The plant needs a minimum nutrient strength to start pumping nutrients now that they are out of the seedling stage. If you really are using RO water, you will need to supplement with Calcium and Magnesium though. But that is not clear. Better to just use two days of sun tanned tap water (to drive out reactive chlorination as best as you can) with a "ppm" of around 150-300. Then, put a computer fan or two in there so there is a slight breeze to increase transpiration. Basil likes warm temperatures and transpires more in them. You have a relatively cool environment. For that reason nutes will need to be even stronger so the plant can get its dose. I think you have a good setup and the plants ought to be healthy, but you are running into a combination of these problems of nutrient deficiencies.

These Socrates cucumber plants are about 8 feet tall, and have been fruiting and growing well. In the past few days, I noticed that the new leaves are curling under. Some nearby plants seem not to be affected. At least not yet. Anyone know what might be the cause?? Thanks so much. Peggy in Taos New Mexico.

Sorry for quick double-post.... To answer Hu's question about spraying: you are in a tricky spot because of the weather. As Silica said, you don't want to spray your leaves when it is hot (>75-80 degrees) because that can cook your leaves. My Meyer has been growing like crazy for the last 1-2 months but in Phoenix it is still 100 degrees. So, much of my new growth is deformed. I try and spray with water to knock the thrips loose periodically, but can't seem to keep up with it. In other words, you have few options during summer/fall flushes when you live in warmer climates like we do. I'm not aware of anything else you can do besides a rigorous spraying with water, multiple times a week as long as you are getting new growth.