If you can assure you won't exceed the feeder to the subpanel, then yes you can do this. Many hot tubs that require 60A can also be set so that they won't fire up heaters and pumps at the same time to allow them to draw less power (mine has dipswitches for this).

Some other observation. Table saws are probably going to draw very close to 15A at 120V. If you have lights, etc... there you could be very close to capacity. Further while the shed may only be 50' away, the cable length likely is longer (especially figuring you're already on a subpanel). You might find that the voltage drop might keep the saw from starting properly (been there, done that). You may wish to size up to 10g on the wiring.

Note that you need a disconnect (could be as simple as a switch) t the shed. With only one circuit, you don't need a grounding system there.

Ron,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. You saved me with having a disconnect at the shed, I over looked that. I looked at couple different websites and NEC, it looks like 5% drop from the source voltage is the maximum. I also measured my total length of the run and I will not exceed 75'. So 120 volt, at 75', load of 20 amps = 3.97% with 12/2, so is 10/2 truly needed or would it just be a cushion?

I was also reading that if I use direct bury UF-B, I will need to bury it 24" deep. However I saw that if I use a GFCI breaker at the main panel, I can get by with only 12" deep. Is that correct?

Thanks

I'd size up to be safe. I used to have a Delta Contractor saw in my garage and depending where I plugged it in, the thing wouldn't come up to speed right.

You are right on the burying the cable. Be sure to sleeve it with something appropriate (sched 80 PVC is convenient if rated for UV exposure) where it comes up out out of the ground.

Your shed probably requires GFCI protection anyhow. Anything at the grade level is going to require it.

You stated I need a disconnect at the shed, just a basic good quality 20 amp single-pole switch?

I think I know the answer to my next question but I will ask it anyways. Can I run this new circuit (the UF-B) through the existing hot tub disconnect box and use the same hole going into the house? It will not be connected to the disconnect, just passing through it or will I have to put another hole into the house.

Thanks

Yes, a good 20A rated single pole that switches the non-grounded (i.e., hot) conductor will work.

You can use the existing hole if you can make it fit and you use the appropriate cable fittings to get in and out of the box.