It's gonna be awhile before we find out if the floors finish up nicely. The kitchen also has a "tin" copper plated ceiling - original to the house (1874) and that has to be stripped and restored before the floors get touched. DH has put both on the 5 yr plan, unless we win the lottery. The house we have owned for the last 30 yrs (oldest 2 sons taking it) has all original hardwood thru out, they will be removing the wall to wall on 1st floor and refinishing one room and leaving another "as is" - it will be their Pub and the rough upped look will fit right in, they'll just put a few coats of poly to re-seal it.

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................

Greetings from the lush Pacific NW, Seattle, Washington! Congratulations on your darling new home. What a find!!! I too, tend to agree this is a late Victorian, rather than an Edwardian or even later, a 1920's residence. This is not a four-square as they appear here in Seattle. Architecturally, the four-square has perfect symetry, which the subject home does not. It features a "turret" sort of structure which then offers lovely bay window sort of enclave. To be envied indeed! The give-away as to the style of architecture additionally, is the fireplace. Many of the 1920's homes have that traditional "Tudor" or pointy-topped fireplace surround. Some even have niches for objects of art. The subject home has far more fussy details than the stripped down Arts & Crafts style, favored in the early 1900's. Yes, I too would go hunting for Victorian furniture in rich mahogany. Even Eastlake furniture would be great. Personally, 1920's style furniture (which I have in a portion of my own home) tends to be very straight-lined. One sees the beginnings of the Art Deco Age. My display cabinet has sloped outward angles and has a lovely wood panel/fret work sort of thing as the door. Compared to Victorian, the wood of the 20's furniture I have found to be lighter in tone, often fruit wood too, compared to mahogany. In my spare time, I am a historical costumer here in Seattle. My husband (Sir Harry of Essex) and I have appeared in historical documentaries filmed here as well. If you are a Facebook fan, feel free to find me as: Lady Victoria Seattle. I also moderate on FB and on the Yahoo Groups: Victorian Revival which discuss furnishings, table settings, Victorian-inspired lifestyle, etc. Great fun for those of us kinda "stuck back there", unwilling to wear 21st century clothing all the time! (wink) Please post photos of your efforts in decorating! I'm sure all of us out here would love to see your lastest "find" from garage sale or thrift store. Also feel free to post images to the Victorian Revival site as I can assure you folks will love to see photos there too. Wishing you much joy, health, prosperity, and time to enjoy all three in your new home.... Lady Victoria of Essex Here is a link that might be useful: Facebook: Victorian Revival

Linda - Sounds like a fort! Both you and Casey might have something there about the boiler and coal rooms. Although the basement has been completely redone, the concrete (seen from inside two closets) could have possibly been an area of the like. Makes sense! There were some pipes going up into the concrete. I did not take the time to check out what the pipes connected to. Seems to me that we looked at a home last year that had a "fireproof" ceiling in the basement where the still working boiler stood. I remember thinking that the basement would be hard to finish out because of that ceiling. It was not flat. The basement room really wasn't large enough to do anything with it. In this current home, the basement is huge! Casey - The servants bedrooms and bath are over the existing kitchen. I do hope the bedroom floors are not concrete should we decided to make the move. Linda - Thankfully, the kitchen has been redone with new plumbing and electrical. It's a rather large kitchen for the era of the home. There is also a pour concrete terrace. What I don't understand is that there are 4 chimneys, but only one fireplace. The chimneys look as though they are within the house and not running up an outside wall. There are no "bump outs" inside the house to indicate a fireplace or chimney was covered up or once there. I guess the others were used for coal or boilers? Perhaps ducts run through the walls???