Time to add more Osmocote?
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7 years ago
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myermike_1micha
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Foliage Pro 9-3-6 or Osmocote time release?
Comments (5)It's a valid question. Many growers include a starter charge or a small amount of a favored CRF (controlled release fertilizer) formulation either when they establish the planting or at the beginning of the growth cycle, in spring. Then they fertilize regularly with low doses of some other type of fertilizer. I do this occasionally with bonsai material I want to develop quickly. Over-fertilizing can cause unwanted types of growth, depending on what elements are supplied in excess, or it can make it difficult to impossible for the plant to take up an adequate volume of water. In extreme cases, it can reverse the flow of water that usually moves from outside to inside the plant's cells, and cause cellular collapse (fertilizer burn/plasmolysis). Al...See MoreIs there ever a BAD time to add soil conditioner?
Comments (9)There IS a difference between a soil conditioner and compost, but they are sometimes used to the same purpose. Soil conditioners are typically recommended to loosen/lighten heavy clay soils. They are often bark-based but sometimes with things like gypsum or crushed stone added as well. The bark works to provide pore space or those empty areas between soil particles that allow for oxygen and water penetration. This assists with drainage - something often lacking in heavy or clay soils - and as the bark is an organic substance, its gradual decompostion further improves the soil and attracts soil organisms. Compost is just mostly decomposed organic matter. It too can lighten a heavy soil and help to improve drainage but the effect tends to be not very long-lived. As it is usually of more uniform particle size and fairly well decomposed already, it does not provide the same degree of aeration the larger, more barky soil conditioners do. On the other hand, it is far more nutrient rich than a soil conditioner and can be used almost as a fertilizer substitute. And it is also important to differentiate between a soil 'conditioner' and a soil 'amendment'. Soil amendment covers a whole lotta different additives that may or may not be needed, including various fertilizers, root growth stimulators and assorted fungal innoculants. A soil conditioner is a very specific type of soil amendment. It is usually added when you first begin to amend your soil or create a new planting bed, should your existing soil conditions require it. Compost can be added at any time - when amending a new planting area, as a mulch or as a nutrient rich top dressing. Adding any type of amendment to individual planting holes is something that is no longer often recommended but depends a lot on the type of plant being planted :-) Annuals and veggies and many perennials - OK. Trees and shrubs - not a good idea....See MoreTime to add your findings! The seed Database...
Comments (27)-yamaddox, I'm not the best at expressing myself (nor am I any expert in all this) so sorry if this explanation all comes out rather unclear... I think any plant that crosses with another will result in producing offspring that are "not true" to the parent cultivar it was harvested from. That is because it will have the genes of both the plant you collected it from and whatever the second plant was that it crossed with (pollen parent). It will sort of be a whole new "hybrid" plant. If a plant is grown in near (sometimes even far distances- think I read on the Growing Tomatoes forum that tomatoes can cross pollinate up to 1/4 mile away from each other) proximity to another of its kind there is a great probability cross-breeding will occur. Now if they are the same genus (like Papaver/poppy) but all different species (like Papaver orientale and Papaver somniferum and Papaver nudiccaule for instance) there will be a less likely chance of cross-breeding, although there are few species of plants out there that do have the ability of crossing with each other. You are spot on with the 'self pollinating' I believe. A plant pollinating itself should come true, unless it is a hybrid that simply WON'T produce true seed/dehybridizes. I've made a system on the database in case your seedlings look "off" and you think there might have been cross breeding going on (and not just look different because it dehybridizes). If you think crossing went on you can put three *** in front of the plant listing. Then anyone looking for that information knows to take the "Trueness" with an extra grain of salt because there was a chance the plant listed crossed and was not a 'pure' self pollination per se. And then if someone else has information on the same plant and KNOWS their plant didn't cross they can have the three *** removed. The definition of "comes true" is sort of a separate issue. I think "comes true" from seed means different things to different people. To many 'comes true from seed' means that all the offspring look exactly like the parent plant/parent cultivar and seedlings are genetically the same to it. My goals in seed starting are different than many I suppose. I don't care so much if the seed raised plant is genetically true to the parent plant. All I want in raising from seed is for the offspring look like the parent plant. That is sort of what I base 'trueness' on in my database, how similar all or some of the seedlings look to the parent cultivar. Hope that wasn't too confusing. I've been known to confuse myself at times so it probably was, lol! ;-) CMK...See MoreTime it takes to add second tray... Worm Factory
Comments (7)Dwalt, When you add the second tray all the worms don't migrate in mass. In fact you are lucky if they move at all for a while. And then it only seems to be the adventurous ones or some of the big ones. All the little worms stay behind. The baby's seem to stay put not crawling more than a inch or so from their hatching place until they are around an inch long. When i was harvesting my stacking bins the bottom bin seemed to have just as many worms by volume as the top bin. Only the worms were all under an inch and a half long. Most of them were under an inch, all hatchlings from egg cases left behind by the older worms. Picking all those baby's out is what finally convinced me to go with a flow through. I sound like a flow through expert. I am not I'm a newbie at it. Only just having set it up. I was harvesting early because stacking Rubbermaid type bins put a lot of weight on the bottom bin squishing the compost out the bottom holes. Not a problem with the worm factory or cows. They have little stops that keep it from happening. After i started the flow through up i came accost a blog that told of a wormer that drilled holes large enough to insert corks into the bottom of the bins that is supposed to work like the stops on the WF and COWS. Ah well....See Moremyermike_1micha
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agohobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
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